80 Series General Tech and Classifieds

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SHUSH said:
I would greatly prefer light color but that truck is ready to roll as is....that's worth a few more detailings to keep it clean.

Basically anything you find around $8--$10k that has less than 180k I would like to know.
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Man if I would of known you were in the market I would have sold you Jr's 40th for $8k. He just had the motor overhauled after the HG blew. The interior was a little rough but the rest was solid. The guy who bought it is supposed to be at the meeting tomorrow so at least the truck will stay in the clc family.
 
Bomar said:
I know...you would get half the money back.
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then buy it! We'll park it at my house, and I'll drive it and we'll call it mine.
 
Random 80 series musings.....

80 series bumpers.....buy what you like...get whatever style you want, but EVERYTHING SOLD FOR A 80 SERIES WILL SCRAPE AND RUB....front and back.

My old school Kaymar scraped and banged but so did the high clearance 4x4 Labs rear bumpers. Bossman's front tube bumper rubbed ledges as much as my ARB.

Find the style you like and buy it.

Crawling an 80 series Cruiser with 37's observations:

(note: I have extensive rockcrawling experience, but only 10% of it is in large Land Cruiser wagons)

My rig...stock 97 with Heavy fronts/Medium rears...2" Metal Tech spacers front, 30mm packers rear. 2.5" OME shocks. Swaybars attached. Stock brake lines.

1) the 345's make for a very balanced 80 series on climbs, decents and off camber trails.

2) With 4.11's, I literally run out of power/torque when I really bind it up so it will likely not break as easy as if I had 4.88's or a crawlbox

3) I bound it up so hard that I watched my steering wheel turn in my hand and the truck did not move. HD Tie rod and drag link on order Monday

4) Power is adequate around town and on the trail. See above. 4.88's would be nice, but not necessary.

5) Never had brake fade even though one guy in group with same tires and 4.88's did as well as one with 315's and 4.88's I used LOW (1st) a lot and stayed off the brakes. Again, 4.88's would be nice but not necessary

6) Tires rub some, but they did not chunk at all. The fronts did not bind at full stuff and turn. Crazy amounts of lift are not needed to run 345's/37's.

7) I rarely ever carried a tire due to short shocks and swaybars. I picked my line and all was good.

8) I used my front locker maybe 6 times for Fins/Hell's/Gold Bar/Poison Spider/Spike/Cliffhanger/Steel Bender

Here it is crossing the DEEP crack on Golden Spike, rear locker only

IMG2899-XL.jpg


IMG2908-XL.jpg


IMG2915-XL.jpg
 
^ i actually did have some chunking on my set (345 KM2) . i was a little disappointed in that aspect, but the tires did perform well and still have great road manners.
Nolen get lower gears for your tcase. Why? Cause you can ; )
I didnt notice that much difference with 4.88s. A little more pick up off the line but its still an 80. Actually got worse gas mileage with the 4.88s- 13mpg to 11-12mpg now.
If you are considering a gear change drive mine first.
 
Wanted to get some opinions on my catalytic converters. I firmly believe that they are toast. I am getting a CEL sometimes(maybe once every 2 weeks) and it will idle rough sometimes. Not every time it comes on. And my passenger side floor board gets really hot. My cats are a big rusted heap. My question is if I cut them off and put a pipe in place are my O2 sensors going to tell the computer all kinds of crazy stuff.
 
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southff4 said:
Wanted to get some opinions on my catalytic converters. I firmly believe that they are toast. I am getting a CEL sometimes(maybe once every 2 weeks) and it will idle rough sometimes. Not every time it comes on. And my passenger side floor board gets really hot. My cats are a big rusted heap. My question is if I cut them off and put a pipe in place are my O2 sensors going to tell the computer all kinds of crazy stuff.
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yes. You have an O2 in front of and behind yours since yours are in-line and not beside each other.... and the one behind will get all wrong.

buy a hi-flow and "turn" it and run it...
 
Heckler pulled and cleaned his O2's and made his CEL go away... it was a 97, so you could also try that... it's free!
 
I will try the cleaning first. CEL never last long enough to get the code scanned. Here one day gone the next! What yall think about the cats being super hot.... Next issue I have is a sweet exhaust smell. After some reading could be HG, it does puff a little smoke if it sits up for a couple of days. Gone with in 30 sec. of running. no water loss or oil in water. :hhmm: I think I will quit reading and just drive the thing.
 
reading mud is sometimes like reading webmd. If you read too much of either you will think you and your truck are dying.
 
ok fella is coming to hopefully take the volvo today at high noon.

As I start to go look at 80s what are the three top things I should be looking at?
keep in mind it will most likely be a 95-97 with approx. 150k on it
what are the problem areas and are they year specific?

im going to search for these questions but trust yall's opinions and extensive knowledge of buying and driving these things.


every one pour some gasoline on your driveway and burn it in offering to the cruiser gods that I unload this money pit today. (did the math last night and it's worth $8k but I have $11k in it bc of broke junk)
 
yeah Bomar I know but I can do more with it and hopefully fix more myself for cheaper I calculated 5 parts like water pump, belts, etc. on both and the yota was cheaper.....only thing that was more was the tires and that's cause they wouldn't be factory sized!

anybody want to chime in that has owned an LC and an LX...I know the LX is teh same except for creature comforts and after market gear fits both but is one really better. Searching 80 fact for buying info shows that an Lx is cheaper on the front end but more costly to maintain.......
 
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SHUSH said:
yeah Bomar I know but I can do more with it and hopefully fix more myself for cheaper I did 5 major parts like water pump, belts, etc. on both and the yota was cheaper.....only thing that was more was the tires and that's cause they wouldn't be factory sized!

anybody want to chime in that has owned an LC and an LX...I know the LX is teh same except for creature comforts and after market gear fits both but is one really better. Searching 80 fact for buying info shows that an Lx is cheaper on the front end but more costly to maintain.......
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They are the same truck. Only difference is body clad molding, higher quality leather(softer), auto climate control, wheels, softer springs, cd changer and sub in center console. Cost to maintain is the same. I have found that for some Lexus parts the Toyota version is cheaper. If I had to start over I would buy a 93-94 with lockers that needs an engine and do a v8 swap right off the bat. If you want to keep the stock engine look for a 95-97. Major issues are headgasket, clogged sunroof drains, slow Windows, radiator, etc. Either way you go I wouldn't go any larger than a 37" tire. You can do just about whatever you want with lockers and 35's. 40's are too big in my opinion. When you find one I'd be more than happy to go with you to check it out.
 
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