80 Series 1hdft or 1hdfte ?

[Tin]

Hi guys

I have a 1990 80 series with 1HDT in it. Now im thinking about converting into either 1hdft or 1hdfte. I have heard 1hdfte is good but things can go wrong with electrical stuffs while off roading. And for 1hdft, all i know is basically the same as 1hdfte but no ECUs and common rail. Has anyone here done the conversion before? I wonder how much it would cost ? I live in South Australia. I plan to let a professional mechanical shop to do the conversion. Budget is around 15k.

A little background about myself, I dont do "crazy" off road, only casual. And I dont tow anything that oversize ( like caravans, big boat, etc...), I dont actually tow very often, only occasionally. Thanks for all the advice guys

 

[junior80]

if you have the choice why not the fte? chip it up

 

[AussieHJCruza]

The FTE isn't commonrail, it's a fairly simple EFI diesel. if the FTE is an option, go for that, the electronics are not massively complex, especially if you get a HDJ79 engine because I don't believe they had an immobilizer

 

[SNLC]

Just put the FT pump on the FTE. Or put the FT head on your 1HDT.

FTE has strongest bottom end from what I understand. FT is basically same as what you have just with the 24-valve head.

If it was me, I would keep it all mechanical.

Cheers

 

[Lumpskie]

What's not making you happy with your 1HDT? I know that the FT and FTE are better certain ways than the basic 1HDT, but an engine swap is big work. Just curious if modding your 1HDT would be cheaper/easier/better than swapping...

 

[Road Apple]

Welcome to MUD Tin. I’m also curious why you want to swap engines. What is your end goal in the swap? You don’t seem to need the extra power for towing. You have a good reliable engine now.

 

[TurboDennis]

Just put the FT pump on the FTE. Or put the FT head on your 1HDT.

FTE has strongest bottom end from what I understand. FT is basically same as what you have just with the 24-valve head.

If it was me, I would keep it all mechanical.

Cheers

I dont really get it why so many people say "put FT pump on FTE"

1HD with mechanical pump is easier to wire, sure. But good FT pumps dont exactly grow on trees. When you factor in the cost of a decent FT pump, rebuild it, extra parts needed to swap pumps and all the labor involved, you would be way ahead both financially and time wise to just wire up the truck for electronically controlled pump that came with FTE.

Not to mention that FTE pump is stronger, more efficient and will provide more power/torque at various RPM's.

FTE pump is not really known to have any electrical problems, so reliability is a non-issue.

And FTE is a better engine overall . Better bottom end, MUCH better head, better turbo and yes - better pump.

 

[nickolai]

These swaps are really trival to do. 1HZ 1HDT 1HDFT and 1HDFTE all share the same mounting, so that's the easy part. A couple of guys with a decent hoist could swap a motor easily in a day. I've done it over a weekend from running on friday to running again on monday (1HDT-1HDFT). Its the wiring that's the hard part - and even that's not that hard. A company in Australia makes plug and play looms.

FT/FTE seem to make better power, they're less 'agricultural' and the heads flow a bit better. Parts are plentiful. The injectors are different and more effcient.

Its really a case of good (1HDT) better (1HDFT) best (1HDFTE). Personally I would do a 1HDFT - no wiring, no ECU and they make great power easily.

The interesting debate for me (which im currently having with myself) is whether to rebuild by 1HDT (done 400k) at likely $12k NZD by the time you do pump and injectors and turbo, or 1HDFT swap. Can pick them up for about $5k, and could still do injectors pump and turbo on the donor and save.

 

[Tin]

thanks for the advices guys. Much appreciated.

I want more power and better fuel economy but the main reason i want to swap is overheating problem. Correct me if im wrong but I have heard the 1hdft and fte are better in dealing with these problems. i have upgraded my radiator to PWR and done pretty much all the basic upgrades including oil catch can, top mount intercooler, water seperator, EGT gauge. I was told to change turbo but id prefer to keep it stock.

has anyone here done the conversion before?What are the pros and cons afterwards? How much would it cost?

 

[AussieHJCruza]

thanks for the advices guys. Much appreciated.

I want more power and better fuel economy but the main reason i want to swap is overheating problem. Correct me if im wrong but I have heard the 1hdft and fte are better in dealing with these problems. i have upgraded my radiator to PWR and done pretty much all the basic upgrades including oil catch can, top mount intercooler, water seperator, EGT gauge. I was told to change turbo but id prefer to keep it stock.

has anyone here done the conversion before?What are the pros and cons afterwards? How much would it cost?

1HDT shouldn't have overheating problems, mine ran cool all day with 160 rwkw, 25 pounds of boost and a few tonnes of trailer behind. Refreshed stock cooling system with a 3 row radiator.

 

[Lumpskie]

1HDT shouldn't have overheating problems, mine ran cool all day with 160 rwkw, 25 pounds of boost and a few tonnes of trailer behind. Refreshed stock cooling system with a 3 row radiator.

Same here. I cruise up long hills at 80 mph without issue. I also tow a 5500lb boat without overheating. But, I'm running a Gturbo. Swapping an engine (with turbo) to avoid swapping a turbo doesn't make sense to me...

@Tin just get a turbo and retune. You'll get lower EGTs, more power and, perhaps, better mileage. My tune ended up getting me a little better mileage.

 

[AussieHJCruza]

Same here. I cruise up long hills at 80 mph without issue. I also tow a 5500lb boat without overheating. But, I'm running a Gturbo. Swapping an engine (with turbo) to avoid swapping a turbo doesn't make sense to me...

@Tin just get a turbo and retune. You'll get lower EGTs, more power and, perhaps, better mileage. My tune ended up getting me a little better mileage.

I got the best mileage I ever had following Gturbo, tricked up pump and injectors, airbox and all the rest. Tune for power for decent economy in my experience.

 

[nickolai]

It'll be way cheaper and easier to solve your overheating issue rather than swap a motor (unless you have a cracked bore).
Start simple and move to more complex. When you say it overheats is it pushing coolant into the overflow?

Coolant level fine? No leaks?
Radiator cap
Fan shroud in place
Check fan hub
Check water pump weep hole
Check exhaust isn't restricted

After that (more invasive)
Flush and clean cooling system
clean rad fins
check you have a thermostat
refill and bleed cooling system

If none of that solves it then you'll be looking at head gasket/head territory,

 

[ALX4X4]

I'm with Nick above. Thats an awfully expensive way to pursue what maight be a simple(r) problem to fix. Does it overheat in traffic only but not on the highway ? Fan clutch is your first suspect. Good luck !

 

[Tin]

It'll be way cheaper and easier to solve your overheating issue rather than swap a motor (unless you have a cracked bore).
Start simple and move to more complex. When you say it overheats is it pushing coolant into the overflow?

Coolant level fine? No leaks?
Radiator cap
Fan shroud in place
Check fan hub
Check water pump weep hole
Check exhaust isn't restricted

After that (more invasive)
Flush and clean cooling system
clean rad fins
check you have a thermostat
refill and bleed cooling system

If none of that solves it then you'll be looking at head gasket/head territory,

thanks Nick,

ill definitely look into those. My EGT gauge was reading around 590*C when going uphill. Is that normal? Ive heard that below 600 is safe zone, not sure if this is true?

 

[nickolai]

thanks Nick,

ill definitely look into those. My EGT gauge was reading around 590*C when going uphill. Is that normal? Ive heard that below 600 is safe zone, not sure if this is true?

is your probe pre or post turbo? Below 600 pre turbo is ok.

 

[AussieHJCruza]

X2, if that's post turbo, too hot. Pre turbo, 750 was about my comfort zone tho I did hit 900c on the dyno being a bit silly with the fuel screw

 

[Lumpskie]

Also, just to avoid confusion... Are your overheating problems related to the cooling system or exhaust gas temps? You'll be looking into different parts of the system depending on which one you're trying to solve.

 

[panamacruiser]

My friend had a 1HZ...then it became a 1HZ-T...then top mount intercooler...then he went ahead and got himself a 1HD-FT...all this done to a 1992 with an H150F...so...yes it is easy...about heat being an issue? well, that was not the issue, he wanted more torque and power...he got it...one thing, a 1HZ with a turbo, does get hotter than without...I believe it is because he kept the same pistons...

 

[panamacruiser]

About fuel pump, he is using one form 1HD-T