80 prep and paint (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter SFROMAN
- Start date
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Prep is fine and all but you know what we really want. C'mon man, throw us a bone!
Prep is fine and all but you know what we really want. C'mon man, throw us a bone!
Check out that tan!
S4Cruiser
SILVER Star
Looks great and I like the color. I bet once you spray clear it’s going to brighten up just based on the gloss.
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
I just sprayed a 60 Nardo Gray, first coat looked brown, threw me as well. That was Tues, humidity has been too high to comfortably spray clear since.
SFROMAN
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #49
Door handles can be pulled to spray individually or they can be sprayed in place.
With my 80 I decided to keep them on because I was able to sand around them pretty good that I felt I didn’t need to remove them.
But it literally takes about 2 minutes to remove them if you wanted to.
EDIT:
Forgot to mention. For all plastics I use an adhesion promoter.
The product I use is called bulldog adhesion promoter.
I use it on
Mirrors
Badges
Front grill
Headlight trim
And any other plastic/ rubber parts that I am going to spray.
With my 80 I decided to keep them on because I was able to sand around them pretty good that I felt I didn’t need to remove them.
But it literally takes about 2 minutes to remove them if you wanted to.
EDIT:
Forgot to mention. For all plastics I use an adhesion promoter.
The product I use is called bulldog adhesion promoter.
I use it on
Mirrors
Badges
Front grill
Headlight trim
And any other plastic/ rubber parts that I am going to spray.
Last edited:
SFROMAN
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #50
Same here.
Not so much painting but I hate high humidity days for doing body work. The body filler hardens so much faster with all the moisture.
So I have to mix very little at a time to be able to work it before it hardens.
Nardo gray is a very nice color. I wanted to paint my 62 that color but decided to go with the pacific blue metallic (8R3)
SFROMAN
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #51
Here is the Amazon link to the adhesion promoter I use
Bulldog Adhesion Promoter, 15 oz. Aerosol https://a.co/d/4NASYWx
Bulldog Adhesion Promoter, 15 oz. Aerosol https://a.co/d/4NASYWx
Thanks!
If a few of the mounting tabs on my LX flares are broken; is it ok to JB weld or epoxy them?
It looks like I would have to make holes on toyota front fenders to accommodate the LX flares.
(80 front end going onto LX)
With those two obstacles, in your opinion...
is it better to do away with all flares and fill holes?
It looks like I would have to make holes on toyota front fenders to accommodate the LX flares.
(80 front end going onto LX)
With those two obstacles, in your opinion...
is it better to do away with all flares and fill holes?
SFROMAN
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #54
I personally don’t like the flares or all the cladding on the lx450. I lost my passenger rear flare on the rubicon a few years ago. That is all the excuse I needed to pull all that stuff off my truck.
I have never tried to put my flares back with stock clips but I did have to hold my front driver side flare in place for a while. I ended up using 3m double sided sticky tape.
As far as what you should do with your own vehicle I guess it will depend on what you want your vehicle to look like.
If you decide to remove the cladding and flares from your truck. I recommend you use the epoxy I used instead of welding patch panels. Obviously once, you decide to go this route you will more likely have to do some body work and paint to get a finished look.
I waited to fill mine until I was ready to paint my whole truck. But another option is for you to only paint the lower section of your truck. Some people use liner and some people use paint.
I have never tried to put my flares back with stock clips but I did have to hold my front driver side flare in place for a while. I ended up using 3m double sided sticky tape.
As far as what you should do with your own vehicle I guess it will depend on what you want your vehicle to look like.
If you decide to remove the cladding and flares from your truck. I recommend you use the epoxy I used instead of welding patch panels. Obviously once, you decide to go this route you will more likely have to do some body work and paint to get a finished look.
I waited to fill mine until I was ready to paint my whole truck. But another option is for you to only paint the lower section of your truck. Some people use liner and some people use paint.
Scotch
SILVER Star
How's it looking?
I'm also planning on deleting the fender flares at some point
I'm also planning on deleting the fender flares at some point
Can't wait to see it. I was wondering the same thing about how it turned out. I'm right behind you on body work and prepping to paint my 60. I 2nd and can't stress enough on using 3m products. I've used other cheap products before but using 3m make me look like i know what I'm doing.
I'm thinking about just painting mine myself too after seeing yours.
I'm thinking about just painting mine myself too after seeing yours.
SFROMAN
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #60
So after the first 3 coats of the Toyota sand color ( the Tacoma color on the newer ones) I had no choice but to sand down to 600 to get rid of a lot of imperfections that were caused by the base coat touching the Toyota primer.
That forces me to have to respray with etching primer and then build up primer. After this coat I painted the truck again to cover up the newly primered spots.
It was 2 in the morning when I got done with the final coat of the sand color.
I didn’t like it.
So I pivoted last second and went with plan B.
I had this paint sitting in my garage for another project so decided why not.
I sprayed the new color that same night.
Finally I sprayed 4 coats of clear.
I still have to color sand, cut and buff but that will be once I get all the stuff I need.
There is imperfections in the paint. I got a couple of sweat stains while clear coating and since I did the whole truck at once I had to sacrifice the wet finish on the roof so that the hood wouldn’t get overspray.
There are also some dust mites since I did paint it in my garage.
But the cool thing is that I should be able to sand most of that stuff when I color sand, cut and buff it.
That forces me to have to respray with etching primer and then build up primer. After this coat I painted the truck again to cover up the newly primered spots.
It was 2 in the morning when I got done with the final coat of the sand color.
I didn’t like it.
So I pivoted last second and went with plan B.
I had this paint sitting in my garage for another project so decided why not.
I sprayed the new color that same night.
Finally I sprayed 4 coats of clear.
I still have to color sand, cut and buff but that will be once I get all the stuff I need.
There is imperfections in the paint. I got a couple of sweat stains while clear coating and since I did the whole truck at once I had to sacrifice the wet finish on the roof so that the hood wouldn’t get overspray.
There are also some dust mites since I did paint it in my garage.
But the cool thing is that I should be able to sand most of that stuff when I color sand, cut and buff it.
