80 owner, looking at a 100

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Joined
Apr 6, 2008
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17
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31
Location
Ohio
**please note: this is a copy & paste from the 80 forum:


80 owner, considering 100. Talk to me.
Hello again guys. I posted last week about considering a 4runner. I have a 96 LC and am looking to replace it. If you haven't read that previous post from me, I want to stress that I love this vehicle. I have found a 100 series that seems to be a reasonable deal. It is a model year 2000 with 99k miles on it. Pretty good shape but had a little dent in front of passenger-side rear wheel; was painted over pretty poorly (about golf-ball size). Also, rear passenger window wouldnt roll up in the cold. the exhaust manifolds were changed at Toyota (known problem). I think I can get it for $13k, but this is wholesale thru a friend, so I may have to decide quickly.
I've been reading, here, Slee's website, etc, & have a few more questions. I know this is the 80 forum but I'm hoping you can help.
Under the hood next to the firewall on the passenger side are several bundles of wires that aren't connected to anything. I'm pretty certain they're factory wires, but don't know what they are for?
I understand that this is the year where Toyota strengthened the front suspension. That's a good thing.
I remember reading that some models required premium gasoline. Does this model require it? I test drove it a few weeks ago and I did not check that. It seemed to drive very well with no weird issues except that window lift.
Like a fool, I didn't notice if it has the touch screen in the dash. I don't think it did though. Does anyone know?
Am I correct this this model year does NOT have the coveted differential lock?
Please give me any other advice and guidance. I'm not a major wheeler at all (I live in ohio.) But I love these vehicles when I need to get somewhere, ie: over the river, through the woods, through the snow, etc.
And then, since I tend to overthink things, just tell me whether or not to buy it. If you must, also make comments about my panties, my skirt, etc etc.
I'm also going to post this in the 100 section.
What's it going to be guys? Hike up your skirts and tell me what to do. LOL
 
I don't have any insight into the specific 100 you are considering, but here are my general thought on your options (since you asked):

I just came from a 4runner (120 series) and recently bought a 100. I have also spent a good deal of time in and around 80s, though I have never owned one.

The 100 is (not surprisingly) an evolutionary step forward from the 80. Bigger, nicer, more comfortable--with all the good and bad that entails. The benefits are obvious, but come with weight, expense, and complexity. As a daily driver, the 100 series beats the 80 handily. As a serious off-road machine, there is a good argument to be made for the 80.

The 4runner, on the other hand, is a very different vehicle. High floors, low ceilings, and a relatively narrow track are 4runner hallmarks. All these things make it great off road, but considerably less comfortable as a daily driver. I load my 1 year old son into a car seat everyday, and the low roof/high floor combo made the 4runner less than ideal. That said my 120 series runner was fun and extremely reliable. Plus, in the dollar range you are considering, you could have a much newer, lower mileage 4runner than you could a 100.
 
**please note: this is a copy & paste from the 80 forum:


80 owner, considering 100. Talk to me.
Hello again guys. I posted last week about considering a 4runner. I have a 96 LC and am looking to replace it. If you haven't read that previous post from me, I want to stress that I love this vehicle. I have found a 100 series that seems to be a reasonable deal. It is a model year 2000 with 99k miles on it. Pretty good shape but had a little dent in front of passenger-side rear wheel; was painted over pretty poorly (about golf-ball size). Also, rear passenger window wouldnt roll up in the cold. the exhaust manifolds were changed at Toyota (known problem). I think I can get it for $13k, but this is wholesale thru a friend, so I may have to decide quickly.
I've been reading, here, Slee's website, etc, & have a few more questions. I know this is the 80 forum but I'm hoping you can help.
Under the hood next to the firewall on the passenger side are several bundles of wires that aren't connected to anything. I'm pretty certain they're factory wires, but don't know what they are for?
I understand that this is the year where Toyota strengthened the front suspension. That's a good thing.
I remember reading that some models required premium gasoline. Does this model require it? I test drove it a few weeks ago and I did not check that. It seemed to drive very well with no weird issues except that window lift.
Like a fool, I didn't notice if it has the touch screen in the dash. I don't think it did though. Does anyone know?
Am I correct this this model year does NOT have the coveted differential lock?
Please give me any other advice and guidance. I'm not a major wheeler at all (I live in ohio.) But I love these vehicles when I need to get somewhere, ie: over the river, through the woods, through the snow, etc.
And then, since I tend to overthink things, just tell me whether or not to buy it. If you must, also make comments about my panties, my skirt, etc etc.
I'm also going to post this in the 100 section.
What's it going to be guys? Hike up your skirts and tell me what to do. LOL

Hello,
Quite a block o' text. Let's see, if not terribly familiar with body work I would definitely have it looked at. More than anything, if the PO cheaped out doing this, what else did they...

Guessing by the description of the repair, I think it pretty safe to assume the PO rocked the 87 octane. Moreover, later year 100's do not require it. Personally, 9 times out of 10 I split the middle, but when first purchased I only used 93 and after using 87 sometimes I have not noticed anything substantive.

As you are looking at a 99, provided it is an LC and not an LX, the Rear Locker was an option. Was only offered in the States in 98-99. As for the diff, the 99 uses a 2 Pinion. I would not let this be a deal breaker as I personally do think a major reason for Toyota to reinforce the diff in the first place was due to the introduction of ATRAC/VSC. While I have not seen a poll here, I do know that a number of those who have blown out their front diff have had the 4 pinion. ARB Front Locker to the rescue.

If the H/U has not been upgraded, then there is not a navigation system. I would be concerned about the wiring in the Engine Bay. Honestly given all of this, I could not recommend enough having a PPI preformed.

While a seemingly decent deal, it is not an absurd deal. I paid similar money for mine that had just over 70,000 miles and is in fantastic condition. This truck sounds pretty janky quite honestly. And please break up your text as I can read pretty fast and the OP is pretty concentrated.
Best,
Jack
 
The wires with plugs leading nowhere in the passenger side engine compartment is for the AHC auto height control system that the Lexus LX came with. Pretty much just ignore it. You'll never use them. Great spot for a second battery though!

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD while navigating gnarly trail. Typos are inherent.
 
I have a '99 and a '97. I prefer the 100 series for daily driving and the 80 series for off-roading, but both are very good on and off-road. The 100 series has a great motor, and both have the same transmission, so nothing different there. I did install an ARB lockers F and R on the 80, and F on the 100 (has factory rear locker), and that seems to be the fix for the weak 2 pinion diff on the '99, but I think the year model you are looking at may already have that 4 pinion diff locker, You can check Slee's website for what changes occurred during each model year, very useful as you decide what year you want.
 
I have a '99 and a '97. I prefer the 100 series for daily driving and the 80 series for off-roading, but both are very good on and off-road. The 100 series has a great motor, and both have the same transmission, so nothing different there. I did install an ARB lockers F and R on the 80, and F on the 100 (has factory rear locker), and that seems to be the fix for the weak 2 pinion diff on the '99, but I think the year model you are looking at may already have that 4 pinion diff locker, You can check Slee's website for what changes occurred during each model year, very useful as you decide what year you want.

The 2000 did not come with a factory rear or front locker. None of the 100s came with a factory front locker. 4 pinion diff? Yes. Front locker, no.

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD while navigating gnarly trail. Typos are inherent.
 
I think the price is in range, not a great deal, not a horrible deal. If it were me, I would just get an LX. At this age, they are close to the same price, not to mention, the Lexus owners take better care of the car and it's less likely to have been off-road a lot. You will also get nicer leather and a better interior and ride.
 
The 2000 did not come with a factory rear or front locker. None of the 100s came with a factory front locker. 4 pinion diff? Yes. Front locker, no.

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD while navigating gnarly trail. Typos are inherent.

Don't forget the 2000+ models have Atrac in place of the locker.
 
Don't forget the 2000+ models have Atrac in place of the locker.

ATRAC doesn't really "replace" a locker. But I was responding to the post above mine where someone stated that the 2000 model he was considering might have A front and rear locker. No dice there. ATRAC is amazing, but i personally wouldn't consider it a replacement for a locker. The 98-99 factory rear locked trucks have a special appeal for that reason.

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD while navigating gnarly trail. Typos are inherent.
 
Atrac is amazing once you learn to keep your foot in it. At the right rpms, the thing is a billy goat. Went up dickey bell this year at uwharrie and it had gotten much worst than previous years. The 100 made it look easy. Also, proper tires with great traction really help atrac do it's work. Keeps the spinning to a minimum.

A front and rear locker are at the top of my shopping/wish list.
 
Atrac is amazing once you learn to keep your foot in it. At the right rpms, the thing is a billy goat. Went up dickey bell this year at uwharrie and it had gotten much worst than previous years. The 100 made it look easy. Also, proper tires with great traction really help atrac do it's work. Keeps the spinning to a minimum.

A front and rear locker are at the top of my shopping/wish list.

If Atrac is so amazing, why do you need lockers?
 
IMO there's nothing better than selectable lockers. I feel like one of the reasons why people break their front diffs is because in order for ATRAC to work you have to "keep your foot in it". When I'm at a difficult obstacle, I'm aired down in low with the back locked and creep up it at rarely more than 1200 rpms while keeping my left foot on the brake to negate wheel spin. I'm not saying that the front will never break in that situation, but you're minimizing the threat when you're not having to keep the revs up and wheels turning looking for traction.
 
Sorry, in this situation, Keep foot in it means slow and steady. I don't think i ever got above 1400 rpms. Very strange driving this way the first couple of times. If I knew the front would hold, then lockers would be way down the list.

I have broken a front diff on my previous 99. Luckily Toyota fixed it for free under the power train warranty, no questions asked. The truck had mud all over it, 285s, lift, front Arb bumper.

Lockers and atrac would be best.
 
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Like most "new" and "automatic" features, thete are trade offs.

There are some YouTube videos showing ATRAC in action. Since it uses the ABS to Reduce wheel spin the advantage is that it's automatic. But the disadvantages are that it doesn't prevent wheel spin completely ( and slamming the front down with a wheel spinning is a bad idea) and you can goof it up with throttle changes. Also, the system is intended for short term use and a long enough rough stretch can exceed the capacity of the system. To prevent overheating it will switch from clicking to a buzz to warn you then it will stop working for a while to allow cooling. This could be inconvenient at best.

Lockers, once engaged, will do their thing and the ATRAC never kicks in. If I were climbing sketchy hills or climbing creek banks all day- I'd want lockers, but if you're only worried about some occasional scrambling the ATRAC is always there.
 

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