80 Cage

[baja1d]

I'm thinking about building a cage for my 80 and wanted to get some input. The cage will be built out of 1.75" DOM and will have to have a total of 4 disconnects- "A" & "B" posts: http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...mp_p_1467.html. I think that this will be the only way I can pull the cage out the back and do a final weld/paint. Furthermore, I'll have to use some metal plate to skirt around the dash, similar to this:http://shop.poisonspyder.com/JK-4-Do.../18-18-010.htm. Also might be considering a 12" bob in the future to get rid of some over hang. Let the input rip!!!

 

[baja1d]

More visual:

 

[PKP80]

If you are going through the trouble of building an internal cage do it correctly. Tie it to the frame at all points either directly welded (preferred) or meeting at a plated bolted on both sides the floor. and no disconnects (Why the disconnects? If you were to ever roll, I'd imagine that you would have just created your week points).

I have rolled and I have an internal cage

my $.02

 

[baja1d]

I agree that the disconnects are going to be the weak link but I'm not sure it's avoidable. The top is going to remain in place and I can't see how I can finish my welds w/o pulling the thing out. That "c" post will be bolted to the floor & a,b,& d tied to the frame.

I think this layout for spreaders maybe better:

 

[SoCal FZJ80]

Roll Cage in an 80 Series

Do all your upper welds outside the vehicle and the lowers while you are inside the cab. Don't do the disconnects. Put your connecting welds in areas not blocked by the structure of the vehicle so you can get your bead cleanly around the tube. If you do not go to the frame, Make sure to do backing plates on the opposite side of the sheet metal and bolt through from one side to the other. This helps reduce the chance of "breakthrough" upon a collision happening. Put small gussets wherever possible, it makes a huge difference with "shift" from impacts. Many people are adverse to removing the interior. But if you are motivated you can remove the entire interior by yourself in one day. Than you can weld all day in the cab, with no fear of burning any interior parts with sparks. After doing all the fab work and touch up paint - than reinstall your interior. It might take you two days to reinstall because of cutting trim, and carpet. The headliner takes a little time to get back in as well.
When it comes to your life, the extra added effort makes the difference. You will never regret "overdoing" Safety.

 

[baja1d]

This makes sense but I've got a few questions. I should start by saying that my only cage building experience so far has been my 40- Lotta access. At any rate, we basically built that cage in place starting with the tie-in pads. Tacked everything together for alignment purposes and the pulled it to do a slow "final" weld. I guess my question is how do i get things to line up well outside of the rig? Measuring a million times seems impossible as does finding reference points since nothing is square. I have a manual bender, grinders, & notchers but no jig. Any threads, references, or advise would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Camino]

this is what we did> L.B.

 

[LT]

Use 2" tubing at the base of your cage as a sleeve. That way you can lower the cage to do the final welds on the top and raise it back in place and weld the 1.75" tubing to the 2" sleeve.

 

[baja1d]

Use 2" tubing at the base of your cage as a sleeve. That way you can lower the cage to do the final welds on the top and raise it back in place and weld the 1.75" tubing to the 2" sleeve.

That's a great idea, thanks for the tip. I knew that there would be a solution!