79 FJ40 - Replacing Ignitor System

[CUSailor]

7/79 FJ40

I'm going through and replacing the wiring harness and decided I wanted to do something about the ignitor. This thing looks like it's ready to fail at any moment and after pricing out new ones I didn't like what I saw. What would y'all recommend as a replacement system? I have read through threads and honestly was more than a bit confused with different options that seemed also to carry over to the distributor. I still have the stock distributor on there if that makes a difference but wouldn't be opposed to replacing it if required.

I'm trying to keep the 2F engine, but am not worried about everything else being stock. I want a vehicle I can depend on to crank up when needed and get me into the mountains and back.

 

[Steamer]

After several Pertronix problems on my F.5 I wanted a change. I believe all the more knowledgable folks here who say how dependable the stock ignitor systems are but you can only get a used one. Replacement parts are also used and you have to shop around.
I went with a D.U.I. It was new, all in one and parts are the same as GM and available at most any local auto parts store. I've got about 11 months on it, just weekend use but I'm quite happy with it and I feel it's dependable. There's some cheaper variations of DUI if you want to hunt up and mix about some components but I just wanted new and done quickly. There's also some Chinese knock offs but I avoided them.

Performance Distributors

 

[CUSailor]

Thanks Steamer, so this is where I ran into some confusion. I saw threads mentioning the DUI one and the HUD (I believe) distributor, but would that replace the igniter assembly that I have pictured or would it hook directly into it? For obvious reasons I feel like I'm one large puddle away from frying that module.

I see in the description you linked me that it has the voltage coil inside the cap, so I assume that the chrome coil I have pictured is removed. Was it just a simple plug and play operation?

 

[Steamer]

It's fairly simple. Everything is in or on the dizzy. One wire from the ignition switch to the dizzy. They recommend a good solid 12v to the dizzy and even suggest a relay which I did install on the firewall. There was an extra terminal on the output side of the relay so I added an led pilot light right next to the relay just for kicks. Should I ever have to troubleshoot I can see I'm sending 12v to the dizzy without breaking out the meter.
Relay
Led Pilot

 

[CUSailor]

Great tip! It seems that I could easily redo this then when I do the wiring harness. If anything else pops up when I'm actually doing the work I'll chime back in here.

 

[1MOA]

Get a DUI instal it once and forget about it.

 

[Solace in Solitude]

X2 @Steamer - I’m extremely pleased with my DUI... it eliminated my last vacuum leak (dissy vacuum advance module) and fave my 40 so much power... she easily cruises at 70mph now.

I used THIS ONE... it’s geared for Toyota and includes a vacuum advance module.

It replaces the dissy, coil and igniter... it requires full battery voltage, full time.

To prevent causing a wiring harness overload on my ‘78, I used the small BY wire to trigger (86) a relay... the large BY wire is resisted, by a large pink Yazuki resister wire (but, either BY could be used to trigger a relay).

Ground (85) the relay.

Feed full battery voltage to 31/50 on the relay.

Forward full voltage to the DUI, via 87 on the relay.

I used the DUI tach connection for my tach.

I also replaced the plug wires with Davis Unified Ignition (DUI) LiveWires.

My timing is ~12*BTDC and Denso
W14EXR-U plugs are gapped at .055”

 

[Steamer]

I also my DUI from Summit (same thing) as it looked at the time to be the fastest ship. Found out a day later it was on back order so it went from Performance to Summit then eventually to me.
After I got it I found out I couldn't use my brand new Belkin wires as the dizzy cap connectors are a bit different. Summit was out of stock on the Live Wires (I wanted blue) so I ordered them from Performance. I thought the lengths were a bit odd but then my engine is de-smogged and stripped of heater & hoses so I'm not sure what the wires may have been designed to accommodate on a stock rig. I called Performance and discussed it with someone and he pulled a set off the shelf and he also thought the lengths were odd. He told to draw up what I wanted and he'd make me a set no charge. I did and they came out great. Came out quite symetrical with nice easy bends. I'll take some pics and post'em. Probably tomorrow as I gotta run.

 

[Solace in Solitude]

My LiveWires were prelabeled and were the perfect lengths, for each cylinder.

I actually bought my DUI and LiveWires from a MUDder who never used them.

 

[Steamer]

My Live Wires were numbered also but some of the lengths and use of angle vs straight connectors was just weird. I couldn’t put the number four wire on without putting a kink in the wire and I feared damaging it. Not having a dented side cover and using the taller Wixx oil filter I was limited to rotating dizzy to only one workable position with room for timing movement.

Since the dizzy sits in the middle, right between cylinders 3 & 4 and with the firing order as it is, it made sense to me the wires should be symmetrical in pairs. As in 1 & 6 should be identical, and so should 2 & 5 as well as 3 & 4. That’s how my second set was made up and they fit good with no sharp bends. Maybe an isolated case but if you don’t like the fit I’d call them.

Here’s the measurements I sent to them and they followed them exactly.

Here's how they turned out.

 

[CUSailor]

This is all extremely helpful Steamer! I'll put this on the wish-list after I figure out some of the larger issues that have popped up this past weekend with the Head. I especially like the blue! Gotta match it to the paint.