Build 78 body off restore (cruiser #2)

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Can you open up the top hole more so you can cut the remaining sheet metal holding the tub on? At minmum, you're going to patch that spot anyways, or you mentioned a new tub. Once you remove the tub you can cut the bolt off.
 
pb4ugo said:
Can you open up the top hole more so you can cut the remaining sheet metal holding the tub on? At minmum, you're going to patch that spot anyways, or you mentioned a new tub. Once you remove the tub you can cut the bolt off.
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I thought about that a bit...maybe I will have to do that. You're right, at a minimum, all that will need to be replaced anyway. Good thoughts. thanks.
 
Some updates. Slow going. But pulled the 350 out, along with the transmission and transfer case. Since the frame brackets for the motor mounts were modified and I am going back to stock location (for a 3FE), I started looking to source some stock mounts to weld or bolt on. As I was looking, I found a frame from a '76 that is all stock (except for the front bumper) and in good shape for $100. So seems easier at this point to just use the '76 frame rather than try to un-modify the original frame. Question - are VINs tied to the frame or the body? How does that work when you do a frame swap? Also, anyone interested in a '78 frame that is modified for a 350? :)

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76 frame:
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I also found a running 3FE out of a '92 FJ80 that someone gave away! I just had to drive 12 hours to get it. So got that home and have started tearing it down to rebuild. I'll probably start a separate thread on the rebuild as I will have a ton of questions.

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I've also started pulling apart of the smaller accessories that I will want to have parts plated or coated (heater, blower, cooling fan, etc.) . Also did the gauge cluster, but will have to pull it back apart to reset the odometer. Started putting the smaller parts through a tumbler...they come out super clean.

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On the tub, I still can't decide if I should try to fix or get a new 1/2 or 3/4 tub. I think I want steel rather than aluminum...I just can't get over the non-stock look of the Aqualu. But CCOT prices are crazy ($10K!). Landcruiserheaven looks good and the price is much better, I just need some assurances on fitment and readiness (e.g. bolt holes, etc.). Any thoughts? Anyone used that TSeven place in France?

Also, getting started on building this finally! Hopefully will be completed by end of summer. Can't wait to have a dedicated work space.

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White Stripe said:
Only tubs I would consider are teseven, cool cruisers, and aqualu. What bothers you about the aqualu tubs?
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Thanks. I think it’s just the non stock look. But I don’t know. I need to look at more pictures and other builds using it.
 
Here is my build thread for my aqualu. The only difference of my aqualu is its tilted more toward a offroad build rather than stock. I wanted it to mimic a modified stock tub. But if I wanted a more stock look I would have left the fender openings stock and not cut the rockers.

forum.ih8mud.com

Build - Fj40 Daily and Wheeler build

forum.ih8mud.com forum.ih8mud.com


Curtice said:
Thanks. I think it’s just the non stock look. But I don’t know. I need to look at more pictures and other builds using it.
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Your grabbing some good deals on stuff, $100 for a solid complete frame is great. And looks like the best tool you have in house is that one in the green sweatshirt! To answer your question on VINs it is tied to the frame, the number is at the front passenger side outside near the spring mount. Transferring it in Washington state is a question for DMV. You’ll love that dedicated work space, I’m liking mine and so far the wife hasn’t confiscated any of the space.
 
Ideally, you'd have the body tag from the '76 that matched your frame. I suppose you could get a matching, new body tag from Matt (?) here on Mud. For best results, have the body tag match the frame tag ;-)
 
thanks for the thoughts on the tubs. More thinking needed. Part of me wants to just go the patch method and learn how to do that, even though it will take longer.

Spent the day yesterday removing and disassembling all of the engine accessories in prep for a rebuild. And taking a thousand pictures along the way. Man this is dirty work.

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Spent the evening cleaning another batch of parts for plating. This is after about 20 hours in a tumbler with some simple green.

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Alright...been doing 1/2 tub research and calling/emailing. I think I can get away with a 1/2 and not 3/4 as the front parts aren't too bad (need rockers). Here is what I found...

LandCruiser Heaven, but according to this thread, I am not really planning to go this route: Land Cruiser Heaven. They would be about 3500 shipped for a 1/2 tub.

CCOT - most expensive, but they claim they are using the original jigs and equipment from the Toyota factory (according to an email from them someone posted on Mud). Seems to be the most complete with wheel well supports brackets, etc. About $6K shipped.
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CI Troa - out of Columbia I think, and supposedly supplies the FJ Company for their restorations. They have been super responsive on email answering all my questions. $3K shipped.
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Relik Garage - never heard of these guys before, but nice website and have been super responsive to my questions. They do restorations as well. Cheapest 1/2 tub at $2K shipped.
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Teseven out of France. Get really good reviews and have been super responsive to my questions as well, but a year wait for delivery. This might be ok as I could easily be this long until I need it at the rate I am going. Midpriced at about $3500 shipped. I think they use stainless steel as well??
Several pictures here: About Teseven Autobody | Vabre | Teseven Toyota Classic.

Then lastly, Aqualu which you know. A bit more expensive at about $4K shipped, but get a 3/4 tub for that as opposed to the 1/2. I don't really like the non-OEM look though. I would do what White Stripe did and modify for the stock transmission hump.

I feel like this might be a bit of get what you pay for...meaning CCOT might be the best. But for $2K with Relik vs $6K, maybe willing to see how it goes.
 
Curtice said:
Suggestions on how to remove these rear body mount bolts? The only tool I can get in there is a smallish wrench, but because its 40 year old rusted bolt, it aint moving. I can't get a cut off wheel or sawzall in either. Am I just being dumb and missing something obvious?

View from underneath:

View attachment 1913158

View from the top through the rusted out sill:
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I would suggest looking at Reel Steel Cruiser Parts for the replacement sheet metal.
 
Curtice said:
Some updates. Slow going. But pulled the 350 out, along with the transmission and transfer case. Since the frame brackets for the motor mounts were modified and I am going back to stock location (for a 3FE), I started looking to source some stock mounts to weld or bolt on. As I was looking, I found a frame from a '76 that is all stock (except for the front bumper) and in good shape for $100. So seems easier at this point to just use the '76 frame rather than try to un-modify the original frame. Question - are VINs tied to the frame or the body? How does that work when you do a frame swap? Also, anyone interested in a '78 frame that is modified for a 350? :)

View attachment 1976430

76 frame:
View attachment 1976425

I also found a running 3FE out of a '92 FJ80 that someone gave away! I just had to drive 12 hours to get it. So got that home and have started tearing it down to rebuild. I'll probably start a separate thread on the rebuild as I will have a ton of questions.

View attachment 1976427

I've also started pulling apart of the smaller accessories that I will want to have parts plated or coated (heater, blower, cooling fan, etc.) . Also did the gauge cluster, but will have to pull it back apart to reset the odometer. Started putting the smaller parts through a tumbler...they come out super clean.

View attachment 1976428

View attachment 1976424
Click to expand...
What kind of a tumbler are you using? Some specs and pictures of the tumbler would be great. Thanks!
 
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