76 FJ40 Taillights, Reverse and indicators wire size (1 Viewer)

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South Texas 97

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Given the state of my wiring running to the back of the truck, I will be replacing ALL that harness.
it looks to be 16 gauge, does that sound right?
this will include new fuel level sender wiring and reverse switch wiring, which I am assuming is the same 16 gauge.

F45921D3-CB5C-42B7-9AF3-539EB519C8BF.jpeg

and this
935BF580-5A8E-44E4-B10F-B84BF916CBC9.jpeg

yes, the battery is disconected. I freaked me out seeing this after a few days of the truck sitting in my garage
 
Given the state of my wiring running to the back of the truck, I will be replacing ALL that harness.
it looks to be 16 gauge, does that sound right?
this will include new fuel level sender wiring and reverse switch wiring, which I am assuming is the same 16 gauge.

View attachment 3201454
and this View attachment 3201455
yes, the battery is disconected. I freaked me out seeing this after a few days of the truck sitting in my garage


YES ,

perfect 16ga :)


you can get all the OEM color coded tracer stripes too


you want to ADD and circuit a polarized ground wire dedicated if you don't have them

white wire w/ black tracer stripe



NAPA has all your SNOW VERSION various size specs Corrugated split loom by the foot , loom all wires period final step
 
I believe my yellow red fuel gauge wire was 18g.
After completing entire harness rebuild, add the grounds in where needed. Saves so much time tracing things or adding when something doesn't work.
 
Thanks to you both for the confirmation and good advice as well. Making my list and checking it twice……
Coolerman or 4rcustomswire.com for correct wiring colors.
Coolerman, vintageconnections.com, or Matt for connectors/terminals
 
On the fuel level harness, I have an additional two pin connector, green and a white with black tracer, (that’s a ground) and on my diagrams green is coming from the light switch to the side and marker lights. It came up through the floorboard grommet With the fuel level wire pair. Does anyone know what this is for?
5C773F4A-CE92-495E-94B2-A95DF4B8AF02.jpeg

this is why I pulled the harness, which was original with the Toyota OEM part numbers
2FC409B0-E968-48E2-92F8-A07A44316958.jpeg

took measurements and made a list of parts/wire I will need, and will keep this one as a reference until the new one is built.
2D39E0E4-758A-4035-95DE-CA5AFFC12152.jpeg
 
Should be your seatbelt buckle switch- do you have a wire coming out of seatbelt buckle? It goes to the seatbelt warning relay.
 
Perfect, thanks V8, I see it on the diagram now, Drivers buckle switch. My seatbelts are aftermarket lap belts, and there is no switch for it to connect to. Will see if I can ground it at the plug going to the rear harness, and see if the buzzer even exists. It’s one of these wires, and was wondering what the second solid green wire was.

F1F36567-0A65-41BF-80BF-68DA8D8C38E5.jpeg
 
Take lots of pictures and notes as you go. I also had a black wire for the 4th gear switch (1978) that went to the emissions computer too.
Just make sure you get the right green wire into the right spot at the end.
 
Thanks, I will meter everything out, and probably reconnect the battery and put the lights /indicators/brake on to confirm what’s what.
 
Should be your seatbelt buckle switch- do you have a wire coming out of seatbelt buckle? It goes to the seatbelt warning relay.


x2 drivers seat belt Receiver red dash indicator lamp alert circuit
 
Thanks, I will meter everything out, and probably reconnect the battery and put the lights /indicators/brake on to confirm what’s what.


take note how your seat belt alarm brown connector has NO locking plastic tab ,

make sure u ONLY use the updated locking latching mating tab YAKAKI style connector housings , just like the 2 here in your photo

NEVER install the smooth NO tab variety , in a repair or restore job scope there a inferior design and will vibrate loose and cause shorts etc....


also ,

do u know what this product is and are you familiar with it , here below also ?



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ok,

so here is a bit of a confusing topic , but i will do my best to explain it in a simple technical format ,


- please post both your tail lamps connector plugs ...

- why?

because some varieties are available new still and some are NOT , and you need to plan for this upfront ,

some later ones have a 5th ground wire white w/ black tracer stripe , some early ones do not ...

- you ABSOLUTLY want to incorporate the 5th wire ground system if you do not have it now ,

- there are a few Nitche ways to do this , and i know all of them very well ,


- a few years ago a published my whole doctrine on all FJ40 1973-10/85 40 series anything tail lamps connectors and the now 5 generations of the lamps them selves ...

below is the LINK , please take advantage of this TECH , it WILL set you up for success in this key point topic arena , and i penned it to do just that , to help others

learn , understand & succeed ..








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GOLD ZINC Tail Lamps #2.jpeg


GOLD ZINC Tail Lamps #22.jpeg


GOLD ZINC Tail Lamps #23.jpeg


GOLD ZINC Tail Lamps #24.jpeg
 
Thanks Matt indeed there is only one brown locking four pin connector, on the right rear. The left was butchered with bullet connectors.
I have read through the recommended thread, indeed more grounds are better.
where do I ground the additional ground wire. There is one along the chassis, for I assume the fuel level and seat belt switch.
Let me get my list of stuff I need first.
 
Thanks Matt indeed there is only one brown locking four pin connector, on the right rear. The left was butchered with bullet connectors.
I have read through the recommended thread, indeed more grounds are better.
where do I ground the additional ground wire. There is one along the chassis, for I assume the fuel level and seat belt switch.
Let me get my list of stuff I need first.


ill advise you on that , later today

NEVER simply ring terminal to a exterior body location or the FRAME rail

you will be making a HOME run into the passenger side fire wall via the 2 brown connectors that ajoin the interior cowel harness and the tail lamos section harness


see if you have the 1 vacent terminal bay i think you should have in the 2 brown locking tab connectors outside fire wall passenger side location u show above


if so we use that option , if NOT i have single water proof oem connectors that will do the job tough as nails oem correct ...

i have and study under @Coolerman / he is and will always be my JEDI Teq electronics master , if i don't have what you need he will or vise versa , so please reach out to him as needed .......

he is the Most knowledgeable person on the entire GLOBE all things vintage toyota land cruiser wiring

email him thu his global solutions store contact is the way forward


i am happy to help you in any way i can , this is what i do and do well , Vintage Toyota wiring topics connectors and terminals , it a labor of love .....


kindly ,
matt





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sumitomo sealed  - Copy.jpg
 
Given the state of my wiring running to the back of the truck, I will be replacing ALL that harness.
it looks to be 16 gauge, does that sound right?
this will include new fuel level sender wiring and reverse switch wiring, which I am assuming is the same 16 gauge.

View attachment 3201454
and this View attachment 3201455
yes, the battery is disconected. I freaked me out seeing this after a few days of the truck sitting in my garage
Feel free to reach out if you need any help with that rear harness. Just finished this one up for another MUD member.

IMG_2655.jpg


But if you are handy, you will have no issues making your own.
 
Thanks, the responses are much appreciated. I am not an entire novice at wiring, but have some head scratching to do on the front end Around the engine bay and under the dash.

The ground thread discussion you put me on was completely over the top, amazing. I am aware of differential voltages, and stray voltage differences between ground points. This will be fun!
 
Thanks, the responses are much appreciated. I am not an entire novice at wiring, but have some head scratching to do on the front end Around the engine bay and under the dash.

The ground thread discussion you put me on was completely over the top, amazing. I am aware of differential voltages, and stray voltage differences between ground points. This will be fun!


just remember the golden rule


NO smaller then 16ga gauge wire period

follow that Teq tech and your 1/2 way done ...


matt
 
NEVER simply ring terminal to a exterior body location or the FRAME rail
Can you give me a clear explanation on this Matt? Bonded is bonded, the entire chassis and body are one large conductor if done correctly. Ideally the negative.


I'd just like to hear your opinion here, not saying you're wrong, I'd just like to hear your rationale.
 
Can you give me a clear explanation on this Matt? Bonded is bonded, the entire chassis and body are one large conductor if done correctly. Ideally the negative.


I'd just like to hear your opinion here, not saying you're wrong, I'd just like to hear your rationale.

I am also interested in this...

I am mostly thumbs when it comes to electrical, but grounding through the frame or body seems to have been done for decades.
 

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