74 FJ40 Idle question/problem car stalls when warm

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J

jschlosser

10 Year
Joined
Jun 27, 2011
Threads
14
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63
Location
Silicon Valley
Hi Folks,

Ok, so when I start my stock 74 FJ I pull the choke and get it started. It's gets up to running temp and runs fine, it's a little rough and I have only really swapped out the plugs and wires.

When it's warm I push the choke closed and it the engine will slow die and stall as if it's no longer getting enough gas. It didn't do this before and I just installed a new Toyota oem fuel pump as my old one was leaking.

Any ideas? Did I install the new pump wrong? It's only 2 screws so I don't think it's that.

Thanks for the help.

Schlosser
 
When it dies, where is the fuel level is in the sight glass? Should be dead nuts center of the sight glass

May have kicked up some crud when you installed the fuel pump. You could try the "okie rebuild" Pin_head mentions. Get a thick leather glove for you left hand, rev your engine with your right hand. Air cleaner needs to be off. While your engine is reved up cover the carb air horn with your left hand. You may need to do this a few times.
 
When you check what Sadam suggested. You should hear the solenoid click when you turn you key to the on position.

What were the symptoms that led you to replace your fuel pump?
 
So the car start cold just fine and runs fine with the choke pulled out a bit. It's just when I push the choke back down when it's warm is when it slowly starts to choke and stall. so if I keep the choke out just a tad 1/4" it will continue to run.

I see fuel pretty much 1/2 way filled in the carb looking glass so I'm pretty sure it's getting gas.

I had to change the fuel pump b/c fuel was leaking out of it and dripping to the floor.

Thanks,

John
 
Provided you didn't develop a big vac leak at the same time you installed your FP. When it's running with the choke partially on, shine a flashlight past the choke plate to see if fuel is coming from the primary nozzle. If you can see fuel spray from the brass nozzle, that's a sign your engine may have a plugged idle circuit. The idle circuit delivers fuel below the primary throttle plate, where it's not able to be seen. When the idle ciruit plugged, my experience has been you need some choke to build enough vacuum to suck fuel from the primary nozzle. When you open your choke plate all the way, vacuum drops enough to halt the compensation, and she dies. That's my understanding anywho.
 
If what the big red rocker says is happening, what I get lucky with at times is this. Remove the air cleaner, start the engine till its warm, rev the engine and while its about 2,000 rpm cover the inlet of the carb until the engine almost stalls. Repeat a few times. The increase air volume and sudden vacuum increase will sometimes clear an obstruction in a carb circuit.
 
shawnfj40 said:
If what the big red rocker says is happening, what I get lucky with at times is this. Remove the air cleaner, start the engine till its warm, rev the engine and while its about 2,000 rpm cover the inlet of the carb until the engine almost stalls. Repeat a few times. The increase air volume and sudden vacuum increase will sometimes clear an obstruction in a carb circuit.
Click to expand...
Thanks I'll give it a try.
 
thebigredrocker said:
Provided you didn't develop a big vac leak at the same time you installed your FP. When it's running with the choke partially on, shine a flashlight past the choke plate to see if fuel is coming from the primary nozzle. If you can see fuel spray from the brass nozzle, that's a sign your engine may have a plugged idle circuit. The idle circuit delivers fuel below the primary throttle plate, where it's not able to be seen. When the idle ciruit plugged, my experience has been you need some choke to build enough vacuum to suck fuel from the primary nozzle. When you open your choke plate all the way, vacuum drops enough to halt the compensation, and she dies. That's my understanding anywho.
Click to expand...

awesome info. Thanks. I'll take a look.
 
Have you hooked a vacuum gauge up yet?

If your 74 is stock, then I don't believe those came with a vacuum advance distributor. I've read FJ40Jim mention he recommends capping the vacuum port on your dizzy, if it's indeed the stock Vac retard unit. I think the 74's had a fitting threaded on the intake manifold that you'd need to cap also. After capping those two ports you set your timing to 10 degrees b.t.d.c.

Let us know how it goes
 
remember the 1st Law OF troubleshooting----What changed?
What did change was a new fuel pump--that means opening up the fuel supply circuit. bigredrocker's suggestion has merit--you may indeed have broken some crud loose, and now it's in the idle circuit.--the Okie Rebuild may work
Fuel cap, vacuum ports/solenoid are the same before and after, so I doubt they are the culprits.
 
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