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- #61
Also made up the fuel lines.
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Made some headway. I got the A/C condenser mounted, blasted and powder coated the grill, radiator mounts made, fan shroud, battery tray fabricated, and a control panel for the Vintage Air finished. The radiator outlet had a weird inward angle. I had to cut it off and weld it back on.
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Not sure how loud that pump is. My son @SipLife used a wallbro and it was loud, even in a 40. He switched to an fzj80 denso pump. Very quiet. He too did an LS. Awesome work here! You will have an awesome rig.Finally on to bodywork. After a few hours of hammer and dolly work I could almost level the quarters with primer surfacer. But I applied some filler today. No photos of that boring crap.
The other day it was too cold and humid from the rain to prep the bodywork, so I worked on the fuel pump assembly. $300 for a drop in kit is absurd. $55 for a 94 Rodeo assembly with pump. I had to shorten the frame a bit. A friend is milling a mounting ring for me. He has written the file for it but waiting on some end mill cutters. I could have made the ring by hand but he is excited to get to use his cnc mill.
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I am hoping it's not too loud. It is isolated a little from the mount in the factory design with a rubber foot.Not sure how loud that pump is. My son @SipLife used a wallbro and it was loud, even in a 40. He switched to an fzj80 denso pump. Very quiet. He too did an LS. Awesome work here! You will have an awesome rig.
That is a concern. I modified the grill so the center bar for the emblem is flush with the rim of the bib. I think it gave me 1/2" more than it was. Then the condensor is about an inch behind the rear most part of the grill.Nice build. Just found it and caught up.
What is your clearance between the the AC condenser and the grill? The reason I ask is that I had one with about 1/2inch clearance and when I was off road the flex in the frame caused the grill support bar that the Toyota emblem mounts on to contact and rub a hole into the condenser causing a loss of refrigerant and of course resulting in no functional AC.
I ended up moving it as close to the radiator as much as I could. I also added two 1 inch wide 1/8in. aluminum strips vertically in front of the condenser so if the bib does hit, it makes contact with the aluminum strips first. So far no issuesThat is a concern. I modified the grill so the center bar for the emblem is flush with the rim of the bib. I think it gave me 1/2" more than it was. Then the condenser is about an inch behind the rear most part of the grill.
Thanks. It's all TIG. For tacking up, I put stainless wire in my MIG machine, but mine is primitive and has no post flow and was using pure argon. So, the tacks sucked. Had to grind them before TIG because they were so tall and oxidized. I was trying to get away with a #8 gas lens but there wasn't enough coverage, so the first half of the job the welds are pretty dark. I didn't get the straw and blue colors until I went to a #12. I don't get enough practice to be "good." Stainless material is expensive and uses a lot of gas so it's hard to just practice if you're not working in a production shop.Looks nice. What was your welding setup? I did straight MIG, without any special gas (advice from welding shop was it wasn't necessary for a small amount of exhaust welding), but man... my ss welds didn't turn out as nice as what yours appears to have. It was quite humbling actually.
Engine mounts are Advanced Adapters style. You need to cut off the factory mounts and weld scab plates to the frame then weld the frame side of the mount to the scab plates. You can see it pretty well in post 47. The transmission mount is custom by me and uses the existing skid plate mounting holes in the frame.Can you please share details on your engine mount set up? Thanks!