70 Series rear bumper photos wanted!

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wesintl said:
I'm not sure why you need detailed pics of the kaymar. It aint that great IMHO. For an off the shelf overland rear bumper its ok. IMHO i'd take que's from those that posted here and those of 4x4 labs can't be beat and design what you might think would be better. I certainly wouldn't copy the kaymar other than the dual swingouts. I'm curious what you like so much about the kaymar other than the dual swing out? it doesn't have d ring attachments, it hangs too far out IMHO (just like the 80 bumpers).
Click to expand...

Everyone is entitled to their own opion, I guess. Every 4x4 labs bumper I have seen is far too heavy and bulky in design and ask anyone who has had one, they say the same. One can always add the D ring attachments, quite easy actually. And one can modify how far it hangs out. The reason I want to see one is that it is the only company (Kaymar) that actually makes a rear bumper for a 70 series!
 
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If it was me, I'd be looking at all the 60 and 40 series bumpers as well, if you're not worried about adding d-ring attachments and slight modifications, changing mounts is no big deal either.

Minor width differences between them all, but that's easy to change too.
 
Glenn-BJ74 said:
I looked around and decided to make my own, using 4"X6" by 3/16th tapered from the back from 6" to 3" at the corners, with 2"X6"X1/8" corner protectors that extend to the rear mud flaps. I put in 1" pipe(1/8 wall) underneath to protect the body seam (hangs lower than the bumper) and to reinforce the corner protectors. I have put in a spindle hinge for 2 X 20 liter NATO fuel can rack, that will swing out on the left side (license plate bracket to be located on the back of the rack, with the lite).

I modified the spare tire mount (up 1") so my 33 spare sits on the bumper when the door is closed (the bumper supports the tire while pounding offroad. I still can put in a swing out tire hinge on the right side if I go bigger than 33. I put on some metal wedges underneath the corners to give a flat ledge for the jack-all on each corner. The original bumpers weight in at 20lbs, I am at about 70 lbs now. I used square tubing, since channel picks up dirt on steep departures. 4" width is the same as the stock bumper, hangs down 2" below the rear frame, which protect the gas tank a bit on departure. The middle is cut-out for a couple of 70 watt back-up lites and my trailer hitch.

Still under construction will post a picture when closer to completion.
Click to expand...


Well its ready for paint. Here are a few shots.
Rear Bumper - a set on Flickr
 
Self made, all steel then hot dip galvanised and painted, plenty of anchor points, holes are tubed high lift jack points, if I unbolt the Pintle hook then I can slide in a standard tow ball tongue, LED indicators are recessed in milled slots. Front winch bar is pretty tidy too, Colour is actually flouro green/yellow.
30032008211.webp
 
Hi Mudnrocks,

What type of fender flares are those?

Duraflares?
 
the last two are both really nice bars!
 
Hi Glen, no mate just the rubber strips with the wired edge, have used duraflares before but they break too easily, I use bigger than normal pop rivits to stick the rubber strips on, not self tapping screws and they pull up tight and stay put too.
 
Not sure if you want to see the other end but who knows it might give someone some new ideas. Not a great photo being it's sort of corner on but it's the only one I have. Same deal all steel and hot dipped then painted. The center lump of RHS is actually my air reciever, the winch is a Warn 12000 lb job. I plated both sides of the chassis rails for strength and the bar mounts on inserts inside the chassis, bolted thru sleeves and also picks up the brackets on the round chassis tube each side. The whole thing is sectioned and rewelded together RHS gussetted at the back, I recon close to unbreakable.
Close John it is an Airport Fire Engine colour, started painting the 40 I am re-building this colour and it's so stand out the 70 got the same stuff.
Bars on-small.webp
 
mudnrocks said:
Hi Glen, no mate just the rubber strips with the wired edge, have used duraflares before but they break too easily, I use bigger than normal pop rivits to stick the rubber strips on, not self tapping screws and they pull up tight and stay put too.
Click to expand...

The Durflares you refer to that "break too easily" they weren't the ultraflex model they now sell were they ?
duraflare
 
No mate they were the old ones which look to me to be made of Polyurea spray Urathene and useless, I am aware of the new style ones but have not seen them in our neck of the woods yet. They look cool but for me it would come down to price, both rubber strips and the new Ultraflex flares will perform the same purpose and both look ok so best price wins I recon what do you think yourself......?
 
In Canada - the choice is very limited. I have ordered a set of the Duraflares ultraflex from a US supplier, which I am hoping they last and look bit better than the rubber strips, but I guess I am the first to try-em out.
 
Hi Glen, I would like to see a photo of the new flares once you get them fitted, thats if you have time. I was having a look at your bumper too, nice job and some good ideas too. Two things for you to consider but I'm not telling you what to do at all, #1 is I welded in tubes with sealed ends as high lift jacking points because earlier bumpers I made had jack points but none worked properly if the jack was not vertical, if I have to with these ones I can jack the 70 sideways to push it out of a bank or still lift it at any angle, I machined them up on the lathe, hole sawed the bar and welded them in, easy peasy. #2 The other is I made a balls up galvanising my bars, for several reasons, next time I would have them sand blasted and zinc rich primed before painting, just about all the machines we build in our engineering shop are done this way and it is surprising how well this defeats rust even after the paint is chipped down to the steel, trust me it's good.
 
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