7 Pin Towing Questions (1 Viewer)

[EricUT]

I need to set up a 7 pin towing system on my 2001. I've read a bunch of old posts and think I know what to do, but want to confirm for my own peace of mind. Three questions, in order of stupidity, least to most:

Seems like most guys have added a 4 to 7 adaptor, and then just run wires directly to the battery, brake controller, and backup lights...is that correct?

Any reason why one couldn't clip the flat 4 pin connector and just directly wire in a new 7 pin connector directly, so no need for the adaptor (then add a 7 to 4 adaptor I guess, if ever needed?). Seems like that would be cleaner and less kludgy if your primary trailer was a 7, but I might be missing something.

And for the dumb question of the week award, what does this red towing converter assembly do, does it split the wiring into separate turn signal and tail light circuits?

 

[ramangain]

4 pin to dual 4 + 7 pin receptacles

Slicing off the existing 4 pin and the 4 pin input on that to hardwire it is the most secure. Then, as you said, run your TBC line, battery, and reverse lines. Job done.

 

[EricUT]

4 pin to dual 4 + 7 pin receptacles

Slicing off the existing 4 pin and the 4 pin input on that to hardwire it is the most secure. Then, as you said, run your TBC line, battery, and reverse lines. Job done.

Thanks! Want to be sure I'm understanding. So you're saying I would not use that as an adaptor, but would rather hardwire it to the leads from the old flat 4 like I was thinking, right? Guessing the ideaof using that adaptor type vs a straight 7 pin connector like below that you get the dual 4 and 7 pin outputs?

Amazon product ASIN B009F5D81O

 

[ramangain]

Yep. No adapters needed afterwards, unless you run into the weird 5 and 6 pin designs. I never have myself

 

[gregnash]

So getting ready to do this myself. Have the Hopkins 4+7-pin adapter and just wondering where I should run the alt power wire and whether I should fuse it either in the body panel or in the engine bay?

 

[AlpineAccess]

Greg, I have a 7 pin on my '99 that I installed fairly recently. Not sure what wire you're looking for guidance on. Are you talking about the aux power?

 

[gregnash]

Greg, I have a 7 pin on my '99 that I installed fairly recently. Not sure what wire you're looking for guidance on. Are you talking about the aux power?

Yeah sorry, realized I said ALT power and meant AUX power. No plan to run a brake controller hardwired at the moment so that wire will just be tucked away. Other free wires are the reverse lights. Figure for that I will just tap in like with the backup camera.

 

[ramangain]

So getting ready to do this myself. Have the Hopkins 4+7-pin adapter and just wondering where I should run the alt power wire and whether I should fuse it either in the body panel or in the engine bay?

Fuse it where you can easily access the fuse.

BTW, if you are gonna run an aftermarket stereo with an amp and/or powered sub too (I think I've seen your comments in threads along these lines), it may make sense to run your main power wire for the stereo to the battery, and run the wire for the AUX trailer power source from your power distribution spot. This is how I wired my rig, and just have one 100A fuse in the engine compartment for all of my additional power draw. All the other stereo stuff is internally fused for protection anyways. My internal distribution for power is under the passengers seat next to the amp (not readily accessible), so if there is a power issue and the 100A fuse pops, I just have one easily accessible fuse to replace.

 

[EricUT]

BTW, if you are gonna run an aftermarket stereo with an amp and/or powered sub too (I think I've seen your comments in threads along these lines), it may make sense to run your main power wire for the stereo to the battery, and run the wire for the AUX trailer power source from your power distribution spot.

I'm setting up mine the same way, I believe - are you saying you're running your amp off the battery directly, or the sub panel?

I have another question too - I'm going with the Redarc Tow-Pro Elite for the controller, which can be mounted anywhere in any orientation. I think it might just stick it in the left rear access panel where the towing control module is, like to the left of the jack access port, then i'd just run a single ethernet to the control knob on the dash. Would be much easier to tie into the three additional lines vs putting it up front in the dash per usual. Am I overlooking any downside to that approach? Here's the unit i'm talking about:

Tow-Pro Elite Electric Brake Controller

The award-winning Tow-Pro Elite is suitable for both 12 volt and 24 volt vehicles and is the only brake controller on the market that offers two types of braking options in one dash mounted unit.

redarcelectronics.com

 

[Eyedaho]

Fuse it where you can easily access the fuse.

BTW, if you are gonna run an aftermarket stereo with an amp and/or powered sub too (I think I've seen your comments in threads along these lines), it may make sense to run your main power wire for the stereo to the battery, and run the wire for the AUX trailer power source from your power distribution spot. This is how I wired my rig, and just have one 100A fuse in the engine compartment for all of my additional power draw. All the other stereo stuff is internally fused for protection anyways. My internal distribution for power is under the passengers seat next to the amp (not readily accessible), so if there is a power issue and the 100A fuse pops, I just have one easily accessible fuse to replace.

My Hopkins trailer brake controller specs a self resetting circuit breaker, which makes sense to me so you don't lose your trailer brakes from a blown fuse if you have a current spike.

Also, re: hardwiring versus using the four pin adapter, one nice thing about the adapter is that it makes it faster to replace your seven pin socket after you smash it on a rock. Ask me how I know. I did just relocate my socket to the back of the hitch using one of the plastic housings, so hopefully it'll be a little less smashy now.

 

[gregnash]

Ok well today was a towing failure with the LC. Unfortunately it looks like I have a break in a line somewhere as I have almost NO power to the 4-pin connector. Had planned on towing a small trailer up to our family cabin to do a dump run with pine needles. Lucky the wife hadn't left for work so switch vehicles real quick and got things taken care of.

When I just got home I pulled out the multi-meter and I am getting power to the Right blinker but that is literally it, no other power to Left or to tail lights. Tested in the loom before it ducks into the quarter panel and same thing. So thinking that the towing adapter in there may be shot? Other thoughts?

 

[Eyedaho]

Ok well today was a towing failure with the LC. Unfortunately it looks like I have a break in a line somewhere as I have almost NO power to the 4-pin connector. Had planned on towing a small trailer up to our family cabin to do a dump run with pine needles. Lucky the wife hadn't left for work so switch vehicles real quick and got things taken care of.

When I just got home I pulled out the multi-meter and I am getting power to the Right blinker but that is literally it, no other power to Left or to tail lights. Tested in the loom before it ducks into the quarter panel and same thing. So thinking that the towing adapter in there may be shot? Other thoughts?

There was a recall for certain years on those little converter box things I believe. I think Toyota has an improved version, or there are aftermarket ones.

 

[MJK]

Fuse the trailer separately.... I wouldn't want to rely on a 100A fuse and my stereo to protect s***ty and/or submersible 16/18ga trailer wiring from a short. If it is also fused at the Hopkins block, then forget what I said.

 

[gregnash]

There was a recall for certain years on those little converter box things I believe. I think Toyota has an improved version, or there are aftermarket ones.

So if I check the Toyota website you think they should have the recall info?
Was thinking, maybe it is better just to handle everything separately and wire all my own?
Thoughts on that vs. using OEM box?

 

[Eyedaho]

So if I check the Toyota website you think they should have the recall info?
Was thinking, maybe it is better just to handle everything separately and wire all my own?
Thoughts on that vs. using OEM box?

Mine was replaced by the PO with an OEM one, and it still works so I haven't messed with it. If I needed to replace it, I might go with aftermarket but I haven't looked too closely. I think it's basically combining your brake and turn signals into the same wires without feeding the signals back into the vehicle wiring. I think the better aftermarket ones are powered from the battery to give full power to the trailer lights without taxing the vehicle wiring. I'm not sure about the Toyota ones.

 

[gregnash]

Mine was replaced by the PO with an OEM one, and it still works so I haven't messed with it. If I needed to replace it, I might go with aftermarket but I haven't looked too closely. I think it's basically combining your brake and turn signals into the same wires without feeding the signals back into the vehicle wiring. I think the better aftermarket ones are powered from the battery to give full power to the trailer lights without taxing the vehicle wiring. I'm not sure about the Toyota ones.

Ok well just pulled up the Toyota Owners website and no open recalls on mine. So looks like I will be pulling apart that rear quarter to find the box and test.

 

[ramangain]

Ugh, that's a bummer

 

[gregnash]

Yup tell me about it... Now time to find the pictured box above since it is OEM wiring and not some shop job. Just seems odd that I would get voltage to only one blinker (right) but not other and then no tail lights?!

Is there a relay associated with the towing box in one of the kick panels? Looking through my EWD and FSM last night I could find nothing on towing harness or any sort of harness in that area.

 

[Eyedaho]

I think your rig is newer, but here's a thread on the recall for the 98-99 100s. My converter is in the space between the jack storage and the driver's side tail light, but like I said, mine was replaced by the PO and might not be exactly in the original location. Given that there is circuitry in the box to combine the signals, I would not be surprised at all if that's where your issue is. Especially if it has been exposed to moisture.

ETA link :

Towing Wire Harness Recall 98-99

I keep forgetting to post this. For those that do not know, there exists a recall of the factory towing wire harness on 98 and 99 100's. If you go to your dealer, they will replace the entire harness (including sending unit) at no charge. Takes a couple of hours to do. Just FYI. Juke

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[gregnash]

I think your rig is newer, but here's a thread on the recall for the 98-99 100s. My converter is in the space between the jack storage and the driver's side tail light, but like I said, mine was replaced by the PO and might not be exactly in the original location. Given that there is circuitry in the box to combine the signals, I would not be surprised at all if that's where your issue is. Especially if it has been exposed to moisture.

ETA link :

Towing Wire Harness Recall 98-99

I keep forgetting to post this. For those that do not know, there exists a recall of the factory towing wire harness on 98 and 99 100's. If you go to your dealer, they will replace the entire harness (including sending unit) at no charge. Takes a couple of hours to do. Just FYI. Juke

forum.ih8mud.com

Mine is a 98...