65 Heater questions

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avicenna110

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Hi all,

Do the early heaters come with a pull cable operated valves or just manual ones? Mine is removed so I’m trying to figure out how to make is stock or at least close. If anyone has pictures that would be great. I saw an earlier post about a Napa valve that’s close to Toyota, looks like this:

1664129361910.png


How does it get attached to the firewall? Here are some pics of my setup with a 350 SBC.

018A215A-8D74-41CB-BAE4-6030C144E2C9.jpeg


A165D1FB-E5F8-4E73-B762-C643EA7BB074.jpeg


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avicenna110

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you have a NON-OEM TOYOTA Engine ?


how are you going to make it stock 🤔
Turning it stock one thing at a time. Found a 65 engine not too long ago. That’s the long term project if I can restore the F engine. But starting with simpler things for now I wanted to restore the heater and put the right valve at the firewall.

DE21597A-38D7-4785-9AED-9338E569F6D1.jpeg
 

ToyotaMatt

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Turning it stock one thing at a time. Found a 65 engine not too long ago. That’s the long term project if I can restore the F engine. But starting with simpler things for now I wanted to restore the heater and put the right valve at the firewall.

View attachment 3123718



oh , ok .........

well , why did you not just come out with your full OEM plans and details to begin with brother 😆



- here you go ,

- that older shut off valve is NOT a EASY thing to come by

- but this later concept is ......:cool:

- i have period correct WATER VALVE CABLES TOO if you need one




1664133387565.png
 

Skreddy

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I used that Napa variant you linked on my 1970. Not 100% correct but looks the part and functions fine. You can see it here (though mounted sideways as I needed to get tricky with having the sniper temp sensor as well).
FE638E15-5E10-4CB1-86F3-DCCF6793E42B.jpeg
 

avicenna110

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oh , ok .........

well , why did you not just come out with your full OEM plans and details to begin with brother 😆



- here you go ,

- that older shut off valve is NOT a EASY thing to come by

- but this later concept is ......:cool:

- i have period correct WATER VALVE CABLES TOO if you need one




View attachment 3123772
I used that Napa variant you linked on my 1970. Not 100% correct but looks the part and functions fine. You can see it here (though mounted sideways as I needed to get tricky with having the sniper temp sensor as well).
View attachment 3123783
Got it. I think I misunderstood, the Napa valve gets attached to the block ( which I don’t have on the car yet😂) . On my 77 I have the valve similar to the one @ToyotaMatt has, which is attached to the firewall. My question is what’s the original part/mechanism that’s near the firewall. Is it just hoses going in, or a 90 degree elbow? It’s in the area shown below ( not my car)

1664145513122.png
 

ToyotaMatt

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Got it. I think I misunderstood, the Napa valve gets attached to the block ( which I don’t have on the car yet😂) . On my 77 I have the valve similar to the one @ToyotaMatt has, which is attached to the firewall. My question is what’s the original part/mechanism that’s near the firewall. Is it just hoses going in, or a 90 degree elbow? It’s in the area shown below ( not my car)

View attachment 3123988



This is what you seek


551D4181-6B5F-4F46-977A-4D8D3F81BE53.jpeg
E4C19314-046A-4421-AF9F-0431E16532DC.jpeg
 
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Answer to the pull cable question it was 9/73 (74 model) when the cable started. Part of that upgrade was a down grade of the rear heater blower running on
high speed of the front heater blower switch. Perferred rear heater having it's own heater switch.
 

ToyotaMatt

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Thanks @ToyotaMatt !
Do you carry it, and the grommets?


this is what you refer to as far as a grommet ?


- remember one important TECH. DETAIL here :

- u DO NOT need the water control valve cable right away , you CAN simply operate it by hand from in the engine bay as a manual ON / OFF shut off , it has built in resistance to keep it SHUT UP TIGHT as desired ......

-









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