'64 SWB and '65 LWB 45 Irish twins (1 Viewer)

[Lifelong40Fan]

Update time. I’ve been busy working on 3 rigs, but there’s been progress on the 45. The front springs are in with new bushings, pins and shackles. The disc brake axle is in and the brakes are plumbed. Getting everything ready to pull the engine, tranny and tcase. I took the head off the 45 and installed it another rig that’s been taking a lot of time and it’s running well now. So, next week the plan is to pull the engine, clean the firewall and frame, run brake lines to passenger side frame, and route the steering rod to the box. I’ll also need to get back to building the f145 I’ve been working on. The head is on it, but I need install freeze plugs, timing cover, oil pan, and plumb the oil tube to the top end. We’ll see how all goes next week. Also, need to take the seats to get reupholstered.

 

[Lifelong40Fan]

Happy New Year! Out with the old and in with the new.

 

[Lifelong40Fan]

Started working on the valve train today on the F rebuild. Having installed a 2F oil pump on this F engine, I'm going to now try and install a 2F rocker arm assembly on the engine. I'm going to drill a hole in the top of rocker arm pedestal that has an oil galley in it. The oil galley passes oil to the rocker arm tube from underneath and I'll be coming in from above, so I'll be rotating the tube so that the oil galley hole faces up, but still maintains the divots on the tube to face the correct way to pass the larger bolts that hold the assembly down. I haven't done it yet, but it sounds good in theory at least.

On the oil pan, I used a new pan (12101-61013), but an OEM pan will also work on an F. Here is the very helpful info given to me from @cruiserdan:
The oil pan and pickup changed in October 1969. Since that change the oil pan has gone through 6 part number changes. F pans newer than October 1969 and all 2F pans are the deeper type. 3F pans do not work. If you select a used pan you need a 12151-61010 pan gasket if the pan is from a motor before March of 1987 production. That is when the drain plug thread diameter went from 18mm down to 12mm. If you have a late 2F pan with a 12mm drain you need a 12151-61011 pan gasket.
The 61011 gasket is the same one used with the 3F but the 3F pan has a different sump.

If you go with a new pan you need a 12101-61013 pan, a 12151-61011 pan gasket, a 90341-12012 drain plug and a 90430-12031 drain plug gasket.

 

[Lifelong40Fan]

Rotated the rocker arm tube and drilled and tapped a pedestal. The 2F valve train fits nicely on my 1F engine. I’m thinking it’s gonna be the bomb! Hopefully, not a bomb!

 

[Michael B]

I’m interested in seeing how this turns out Mike. Are you sure the copper line isn’t going to touch or rub in the pushrod galley?

 

[Lifelong40Fan]

It should be fine because that is where the original oil tube passes going to the rocker arm assembly.

 

[Lifelong40Fan]

The engine is now bolted in. Right off the bat I see that the 4 speed bellhousing will require moving the clutch slave cylinder to the other side. I’m expecting that it’ll interfere with the tcase linkages over there too. Keeping it interesting I guess.

 

[middlecalf]

That’s not enough clearance? Is the tunnel the issue?

 

[Lifelong40Fan]

I haven’t put the clutch fork in, but, just looking at the bellhousing opening, it looks like the fork will hit the floor. I need to get out there and study it though.

 

[Lifelong40Fan]

Maybe it’ll fit after all.

 

[Lifelong40Fan]

T minus 24 hours before I try and hear this thing rumble. Just need to finish the exhaust and install carb. Can’t wait.

The 2F rocker assembly yields excellent oil flow at the rockers when I primed the oil system.

 

[tahoe40/45]

Ha, I like your driver seat.

 

[Lifelong40Fan]

She lives!

 

[Michael B]

Good job! Congratulations Mike.

 

[Unimogguy]

Great job! I’m stoked for you to be able to take it out on adventures!

 

[Lifelong40Fan]

Done for the week. Heading to NM to visit family and eat Mexican food.

Engine is running, Saginaw PS connected and awaiting pitman arm and tie rod from @cruiseroutfit , FJ60 booster and MC installed, and new clutch slave cylinder and MC installed. I spent a bunch of time trying to make the accelerator linkages from a 40 work to no avail. Abandoned the wish and went with a cable. I’ll have to take off the MC to take off the carb, but both will fit. I’ll have to find some long tube to connect the carb to the air cleaner.

So, next week it’s, install clutch, mount 3 speed tcase on the rebuilt 4 speed, stuff both in, figure out air cleaner, connect steering, and then figure out drive shafts. It’s coming along.

 

[Lifelong40Fan]

Rebuilt 4 speed/3 speed tcase is in and working. PS is installed and turns the tires easily. Next is to plumb the brakes, clutch and connect the throttle cable and choke. Getting there!

 

[Lifelong40Fan]

All new brake and clutch lines have been run. Have the air cleaner cleaned up and will start getting it and throttle cable set next. Had a heck of a time figuring out the drive shaft ends that will work to fit the early 3 speed tcase to front diff out of a ‘74 FJ55. It took 4 different shafts, but I think I finally arrived at a way to get it done. Need to take both shafts in to get rear shortened and front lengthened.

 

[Michael B]

The 45 is coming together nicely Mike.

 

[Lifelong40Fan]

I’ve been doing all the piddly stuff - choke and gas pedal, finished the brake lines and ready to bleed, and made a heat shield since the carb has to be mounted so close to the intake/exhaust manifold. Now I have to rebuild the cheap carb I have to use. No miles on it and something is not right with it. I have Aisin carbs, but they hit the brake MC, so have to go with a cheap Trollhole carb.

Oh, and heading to driveshaft shop today to pick up the rebuilt shafts cut to length.