60 starting problem (1 Viewer)

[Goode]

Truck off...battery reads 12.32 Yet no power to lights or anything. Nada. Dead. Therefore it does not start.

When I connect jumper cables from my car, lights will turn on and truck will start and run for a few mins then die. While running the battery reads 13-14. Once it dies, all power is lost again. Yet battery still reads 12+.

If it were alternator issue, would the volts not drop on the battery once it died after running for a few mins?

Is it a voltage regulator issue? Are VR's internal on the 60 alternator?

I am about to pull the alternator and have it tested. Just wanted to see if anyone had any advice or experience this before.

 

[LDowney]

I have never dealt with that problem directly. However, most starting issues I have had in recent years have all been related to the battery. Even when the battery showed a 12+ volts. Before pulling the alternator, I would take the battery for testing. If possible, pull the battery from another vehicle and try starting/running your 60 with the borrowed battery as part of the test.

Sorry not to be of better help.

Finally, when I have a starter or alternator going south; I have them rebuilt at an alternator/starter shop. It may not save me money but I have confidence in the finished product because it started with a core that I know & have experience with.

Good luck. Keep us posted.

 

[Elbert]

could be a defective battery... they can have a bad "cell" and still show 12volts. Get the battery load tested.

 

[Goode]

Thanks for the replies. I'll have the battery checked first and let you know.

This was a new one for me. In my experience it's always been a dead battery or dead alternator. So when the batt read 12+, I began scratching my head. Then I grabbed the Raid and sprayed the wasp nest that was nicely built behind my gas lid. Ugh...I hate bees/bugs. There were about 30 dead wasps when I opened the lid the next day. Nest number two was being constructed under the tailgate. They didn't survive either.

 

[Goode]

Battery tested good. Will have alternator tested next. Is local auto parts store sufficient for testing alt.? Or will an alternator specialty shop be better?

 

[LDowney]

Battery tested good. Will have alternator tested next. Is local auto parts store sufficient for testing alt.? Or will an alternator specialty shop be better?

If a specialty shop is open today, then I would go there. But a parts store should be able to run a good test too.

 

[radioridge]

We're missing something here. my first thought was also a bad cell in the batt. Are you sure the parts store load tested the batt and didnt simple read the voltage across the terminals (there machine will do both) did u notice a voltage drop at the batt when u turned the lights on? I will be surprised if the alt is the problem ( but it wouldnt be the first time ). I once had a bad batt term cause something like this. when i clamped the jumper cables on it made a better connection,when they where removed the car wouldnt run.

 

[Elbert]

We're missing something here. my first thought was also a bad cell in the batt. Are you sure the parts store load tested the batt and didnt simple read the voltage across the terminals (there machine will do both) did u notice a voltage drop at the batt when u turned the lights on? I will be surprised if the alt is the problem ( but it wouldnt be the first time ). I once had a bad batt term cause something like this. when i clamped the jumper cables on it made a better connection,when they where removed the car wouldnt run.

Ridge

off topic... but can you post or email that pic you took of the 60...when I was about to go down the hill sideways...

I've had a battery do something similar and you could not see the issue until the load test..but that's just a guess from where I sit. Might be a defective connection somewhere too.

 

[mudnyreye]

Check your + cable at both ends. Sounds like a cable issue. Also Check the - cable.

 

[Goode]

I asked if the battery test was a 'load' test and the answer was yes.

You guys are barking up the right tree with the cable issue. I talked it through with a friend at lunch on Friday and he too insisted it was a cable or terminal (clamping) problem. When I returned home with the battery, I put it back into the truck without connecting it and left it for the night. Friday after work, I put the cables back on and voila, lights...camera...action. It fired right up! There wasn't excessive corrosion on the terminals and everything appeared to be "okay". But I guess there was some kind of buildup preventing a good connection. Thus clamping the jumper cables forced the connection.

I'll cleanup the terminals and posts well and see how it holds up. But for now I think I'm good to go.

Thanks for the help all. Should have been able to solve this one on my own, but these days I get more time on the "keyboard" than "wrenching". So I went straight to the "experts".

Cheers!