6 pin voltage regulator wiring help (1 Viewer)

[Brybrys1978]

Hi Matt,

That is the exact VR with corresponding wires and positions I had. Perhaps you can test yours and see if the results are repeatable and same as mine.

Test via pin location = fail where B and E show no resistance. Along with other 4 tests that showed

IG to F - 0 ohms PASS
L to E - 0 ohms PASS
B to E - 0 ohms FAIL
B to L - 0 ohms FAIL
N to E - infinity ohms FAIL

Test via color wire of white (Battery) and black (ground) and the resistance is infinity. Along with other 4 tests.

IG red to F green- 0 ohms PASS
L yelllow to E black - 0 ohms PASS
B white to E black- infinity ohms PASS
B white to L yellow- infinity ohms PASS
N blue to E black - 0 ohms FAIL (not 25)

The internals of my VR mirrored nearly exactly the attached picture. Going with assumption that wire color = function, then my wires were crossed at the harness. Swapping out the pin location to match the below photo appears to so far fix the issues I’m having...pending starting the motor and function testing the charge via alternator.

I have a new starter but was using my old one until it died to get more mileage out of it. May have got my last mile. I could use one of those studs...going to see if my hardware store has one.

 

[Coolerman]

Pretty sure this is correct...

Red = Not used on any harness I have ever worked on
White wire = Splices to the large White/Blue wire that goes to the alternator B+ terminal
Green wire = Field terminal. Connect straight to the alternator F terminal
Yellow wire = IG Switched +12V. Connect to a key switched hot wire. This is the wire the voltage regulator uses to sense voltage levels.
Black wire = E (Ground). Connect this straight to the alternator E terminal
Blue wire = N Charge light. Connect this to the N terminal on the alternator. The other wire on the charge light will go to a +12V switched wire.

 

[trig8r]

Not sure if anyone is still following this thread. I tried the wiring suggested above by @Coolerman and the regulator started smoking as soon as the key was set to ON. Any thoughts?

 

[charliemeyer007]

Yea well I'm not going back threw 42 entries to see what's up.
Find the wiring diagram for your year model market. Compare the color codes on your wires to the ones in diagram. So then check where the wires lead to at the other end from the regulator in both the rig and the diagram. I guessing you have a short somewhere as opposed to an open circuit, which is why its smoking. Second - just cause you bought a new part doesn't mean its good. The alternator could also have gone bad - I'm sure there are tests for that in the manuals.

Unhook the battery ground terminal. So check the contacts/terminals on the alternator, maybe the insulation is cracked or broken and the contact is bent and grounding out on the body. Then pull the instrument panel and look at the connections around the amp meter. It has some sort of voltage reduction for the other instruments. Same with the ignition switch and use a meter to check its function.

You got a pushing nearly 50 year old rig - who knows what the PO's have done or scabbed in. Aspirin sandwich time trying to sort out all that crap IMHO.

When my 72's OEM alternator goes, I'm switching to a 1 wire like 90 A GM alternator and bypassing all the crap. I'll just monitor the voltage instead of amps.

Might be a free manual here Land Cruiser Factory Service Manuals (FSMs) - https://www.cruisercult.com/factory-service-manuals
The chiltons is better than nothing.

Oh and welcome, lots of smart helpful folks here. Good Luck