6 pin voltage regulator wiring help (1 Viewer)

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ok , back on track




harness side wires as follows

- solid white wire = B on regulator

- black w/ yellow tracer stripe = IG on regulator

- white w/ green tracer stripe = F on regulator

- white / w black tracer stripe = E on regulator

- white w/ blue tracer = N on regulator

- the red wire i dont think is used , as shown in photo & not shown in wire diagram anywhere ?



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Awesome, now we’re getting somewhere. Next piece to the puzzle is the following desired wiring config based on what I have/desire: all 6 wires will be used to assist with the L wire charging lamp. Does this change any of the above in terms of the wire color config?
 
what light / lamp or devise on your dash are u planning on using for the charge warning light

so far i can only find the FJ55 has a L regulator terminal wire coming off the Regulator ?

the FJ40's are all dormant , L is not used

go to page 224 in your Haynes manual 1975 FJ55 for a example

as i understand it u want to add this feature maybe




see L regulator terminal & the Yellow w/ white tracer stripe wire going to the cluster meter charge warning light


or so it appears



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Thank you! I restored it myself. Looks like good investigative work gents! Thank you, I’ll try out the above config and use the red wire as the L lead and see if I can wire for charging lamp per Haynes.
 
What you have is a Canadian VR. Same as the USA model but a different connector.
connector for Canada.jpg
connector.JPG



Rudi
 
So I don’t think the color break down worked from above from your previous thread. If so, it puts the wires on the harness in the following incorrect order:

L B F
— — —
— — —
IG E N

From Haynes, the correct order is

IG N F
— — —
— — —
E L B

Coming out of my remanufactured VR is the following order and color wire:




Which brings me to my point: did they remanufactured the VR with random colored wires coming out? I can’t decipher the correct order of so I can wire it correctly into the harness.

As an example, the N must be either white or black. And L be either white or black because of the mirror image...simply, I’m either looking at it like Haynes shows, or it’s upside down apparent.

Thus,
IG can be either red or blue
E can be either yellow or green
F can be either green or yellow
B can be either red or blue.

My original post lead me to believe the following wire order based on Haynes 1982 schematic USA FJ40 Voltage Regulator since a WL went into the B and a WG went the F, and the two correlate next to each other on the VR harness order above.

So the wires out of the VR are which of the following?

IG N F
— — —
— — —
E L B

Or is it

IG N F
— — —
— — —
E L B


Does this best explain the mystery I’m trying to solve? Haynes really doesn’t help if the colors are incorrect to begin with. It makes sense if IG is red, but not E being yellow. Thus a conundrum

See the issue I’m having?
 
So I don’t think the color break down worked from above from your previous thread. If so, it puts the wires on the harness in the following incorrect order:

L B F
— — —
— — —
IG E N

From Haynes, the correct order is

IG N F
— — —
— — —
E L B

Coming out of my remanufactured VR is the following order and color wire:




Which brings me to my point: did they remanufactured the VR with random colored wires coming out? I can’t decipher the correct order of so I can wire it correctly into the harness.

As an example, the N must be either white or black. And L be either white or black because of the mirror image...simply, I’m either looking at it like Haynes shows, or it’s upside down apparent.

Thus,
IG can be either red or blue
E can be either yellow or green
F can be either green or yellow
B can be either red or blue.

My original post lead me to believe the following wire order based on Haynes 1982 schematic USA FJ40 Voltage Regulator since a WL went into the B and a WG went the F, and the two correlate next to each other on the VR harness order above.

So the wires out of the VR are which of the following?

IG N F
— — —
— — —
E L B

Or is it

IG N F
— — —
— — —
E L B


Does this best explain the mystery I’m trying to solve? Haynes really doesn’t help if the colors are incorrect to begin with. It makes sense if IG is red, but not E being yellow. Thus a conundrum

See the issue I’m having?
 
The colors of the wires on the VR are decided by the manufacturer and don't match the wires from the harness.
In this case the manufacturer is Nippon-Denso and the harness is Toyota.
The manufacturer can use 6 times black if he wants. What counts is that each wire is in the right position on the connector.
The diagrams I showed you are the Toyota diagrams. The diagrams are leading!

Don't overthink this.

Rudi
 
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Thank you Rudi,

I think I’ll go with the color combo I described above where IG was the Red wire.

Just out of curiosity, why does a 1982 FJ40 show the IG going to a condenser that is plugged to ground?
 
That's a capacitor (aka condenser but a condensor is part of a cooling system).
That capacitor is filtering the clicks from the VR out which can be heard with (old school) AM reception.

Rudi
 
i am going to take a stab at this from a different angle & add to @bj40green 's solid input

If the NipponDenso / Denso Re-manufactured and or New Voltage Regulator has a Solid Primary Color wire ( other the White )

That Solid Primary color on the regulator side Mini-harness translates into a Color Coded Tracer Stripe Wire of the same Color code on the YAZAKI made Toyota harness side

so if we are talking about the solid blue wire on the 54040 regulator side , the white w/ blue tracer stripe on the Yazaki Harness side , this particular fact is also confirmed in the photo that @Brybrys1978 posted on page 1 with the Mustard color fire wall
&
the Solid green wire mating with the white wire w/ green tracer stripe

these 2 are the only two i can make for sure and label as concrete examples






on a side note ( While staying on Track :) ) : Toyota updated to the Green color 3.0mm first generation micro-spade double locking tab connector housings , away from the 6.3mm .250 series black and white ones because it is a sealed water proof design with its Orange O-ring type gaskets



thoughts ?



iyazaki denso.jpg
 
View attachment 1828718 Thank you Rudi,

I think I’ll go with the color combo I described above where IG was the Red wire.

Just out of curiosity, why does a 1982 FJ40 show the IG going to a condenser that is plugged to ground?
That's a capacitor (aka condenser but a condensor is part of a cooling system).
That capacitor is filtering the clicks from the VR out which can be heard with (old school) AM reception.

Rudi




Excellent technical write up & Videos rudy :popcorn:





Voltage Regulator (ext.) / How it works
 
@bj40green,

1982 FJ43 restoration with a completely new wiring harness I am building from scratch to USA specs with liberty of charging lamp functionality despite not original to my year/model.


I’m resurrecting this thread after some trouble. Bottom line up front: I’m not certain I’ve wired the 6 pin voltage regulator correctly; going back to original postings before.

First photo is my wiring of the VR, the second is the wiring schematic I drew up for this question so you know what I’m working with. It corresponds to each wire exactly as I wired it because I built the harness from scratch.

Issue: when I connect the + battery terminal with the ignition key in the OFF/ACC position, the VR “clicks” as if it engages one of the solenoids inside. Over the course of 15 minutes, it gets warm but not hot to the touch. (That’s bad correct?)

(A quick fastforward) Only power source is via the B wire and through the firewall ground. I disconnected everything else while trouble shooting and even removed the 30amp engine fuse. The above issue continues.

(Back to everything connected) When I turn key from OFF/ACC to ON, the charge lamp illuminates (that’s good!)

When I turn key from ON to START, the starter makes an odd whirling sound, followed by the fuseable link blowing.

I’ll function test the starter separately.

Please help me solve the VR clicking when connecting the battery terminal.

Please help me determine why the fuseable link blows (assuming not related to starter.

Thank you!

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Situation update,

I bench tested the starter. It failed. It was not engaging the solenoid to throw forward the clutch, thus driving up the amps...and popping the fuseable plug. Replaced starter with spare and voila! Tha problem is solved. (Though I will need to trouble shoot the malfunctioning starter)

Back to voltage regulator...after much research of schematics, wiring diagrams, and the internals of the VR, I believe the wires out of the VR were placed in the incorrect pin location.

Evidence: when I tested the pin locations

IG N F
E L B

for ohms per Hanes, it only passed two of the five. When I tested the wires coming out of the corresponding location of the VR internals (which also corresponds to the correct colors per the schematics) it passed on all tests except the N to E of 25 ohms...mine shows zero resistance. Not sure what the consequence of this will be.

I pulled the connectors out and put them in the position that corresponds to the following wire and pin location.

IG-red N -blue F-green
E-black L-yellow B-white

Appears to match diagrams and schematics. So I put on truck to test.

Battery terminal hooked up = VR no longer clicks on (great!)
Key turned from ACC to ON = charging light illuminates (great!!)
Key turned from ON to START = starter engages and doesn’t blow a fuse (great!!!)

Once I get engine running this week, I’ll test to see if it charges correctly.

If any other cruisers are using VR model number 27700-54040-84, please let me know if y’all have similar issues.

I’ll keep y’all posted.
 
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Hi Byrbyrs,

this is a brand new 27700-54040-84 voltage regulator , i bought it last week at my local toyota dealer , i hope the

Terminals & color coded wire layout of it can help u in some way





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here is the updated Gear reduction starter u can still get from TOYOTA 28100-60070-84

u will want to update your starter bolts to a double stud & Nut w/lock washer set set up for best results


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