6 inch suspensions found right here!
- Thread starter T Y L E R
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #42
yellowchaosfj80 said:Hay TY there is enough of us here that would help you put all the goodies on and you bring theand pizza and I"LL be there!
Don't temp me .. last time I headed there it took me a day and a half. I was completely demented by the time I arrived, but I did it solo ..
IOW's I could be there for the 1st! 
Lemme keep you posted on that ..
*thinking* - Money spent at Toyota .. or a cross country trip
Only downfall would be $$. Gas costs would exceed labour at my Toyota probably. And then there is crossing the Rockies in the winter
TY
I had them made locally 500.00 with the side bars and yes they got a good work out! A flight to you is cheep! AND then come out in the sommer!
- Thread starter
- #44
yellowchaosfj80 said:
Unfortunately I don't have a garage .. or tools. It is probably best that I sub it out to a shop this time. I still have my consolidation to finish here at work, and then oral exams, written exams, practicals, and provincials in spring. Best I try and get it done quietly as I plow thru the next month.
We'll have to hook up some time though
Peace,
TY
Cool You got it !
I did a progression of suspensions. Here are my opinions on each:
OME heavies (850/863):
The heavies gave the best combination of ride, performance, and load-carrying. If you have weight in back (bumper, fuel tank, etc.) they are a good setup. Ride is firm and controlled, but still easy to flex out. But you can't run 35s, hence...
Js plus spacers:
Similar characteristics, but a tiny bit more wallow. Got some vibrations at this point. Made all the mods necessary for a 4-6" lift. Then Christo came out with his 6" coils...
Slee 6" medium weight:
Excellent setup. Ran the Rubicon and it was a noticeable improvement in capability, despite the trail getting harder and harder each year. In fact, it seemed easier than other times I had done the trail with the other setups. Trail stability was not an issue, but it did wallow quite a bit on twisty roads. Height probably contributed to this, but also I think I got the wrong coils for my application. I have a set of Christo's 6" heavies waiting to go in the truck, which should help.
Here are the other mods I did for the lift (pretty standard stuff):
- OME L shocks
- 1.25" wheel spacers/adapters
- Slee adjustable panhard rods, fr. & rr.
- Slee extended bumpstops, fr. & rr.
- Slee extended sway bar mounts, fr. & rr.
- extended stainless steel brake lines
- extended breathers
- double cardan front driveshaft
- Slee HD front control arms
- David Quach extended length HD rear lower control arms
- Slee adjustable rear upper arms
OME heavies (850/863):
The heavies gave the best combination of ride, performance, and load-carrying. If you have weight in back (bumper, fuel tank, etc.) they are a good setup. Ride is firm and controlled, but still easy to flex out. But you can't run 35s, hence...
Js plus spacers:
Similar characteristics, but a tiny bit more wallow. Got some vibrations at this point. Made all the mods necessary for a 4-6" lift. Then Christo came out with his 6" coils...
Slee 6" medium weight:
Excellent setup. Ran the Rubicon and it was a noticeable improvement in capability, despite the trail getting harder and harder each year. In fact, it seemed easier than other times I had done the trail with the other setups. Trail stability was not an issue, but it did wallow quite a bit on twisty roads. Height probably contributed to this, but also I think I got the wrong coils for my application. I have a set of Christo's 6" heavies waiting to go in the truck, which should help.
Here are the other mods I did for the lift (pretty standard stuff):
- OME L shocks
- 1.25" wheel spacers/adapters
- Slee adjustable panhard rods, fr. & rr.
- Slee extended bumpstops, fr. & rr.
- Slee extended sway bar mounts, fr. & rr.
- extended stainless steel brake lines
- extended breathers
- double cardan front driveshaft
- Slee HD front control arms
- David Quach extended length HD rear lower control arms
- Slee adjustable rear upper arms
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This was just the motivation I needed
- Thread starter
- #50
My next thread will be a support group for those of us goin for it .. even though the bank is about to bust! Will probably need to include a discussion on retrofitting a garage with a bunk house suite, for those of you who are married.
TY
TY
Yeah, you'll have all the room where your 80 used to be, since it won't fit anymore.
-Spike
-Spike
- Thread starter
- #52
-Spike- said:
Not sure my condo corp. would allow that ! Mind you I may revisit an earlier idea I came across of fitting small winches between the frame and axles .. to power the 80 down 3 inches so I can get into the underground parking.
TY
T Y L E R said:
Ty -
A local SF Bay Area 80 guy, David Quach (mechanical engineer with access to a full machine shop) designed these with George Scolaro. They are thick-wall tubing like Christo's HD units, but are an additional 0.25" in length. This corrects for a standard 2.5-3" OME lift by shifting the axle BACK instead of FORWARD (which is done by the adjustable rear upper arms). What this does is keep the wheel more centered in the well instead of it shifting forward as the axle drops away (i.e. truck is lifted). If you just use adjustable upper arms, your wheelbase shrinks overall by a larger amount as the truck goes up. However, these arms were not enough to correct for the 6" lift, so I ended up getting adjustable rear uppers anyway.
Not strictly necessary, but a "very nice to have." Unfortunately, David no longer makes these arms.
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Here are a few pictures of mine. I will try and answer the questions posted.
1 ) Does the setup feel stable as a DD? And also remark whether you put on wider wheels, or wheel spacers.
I could use it as a DD no problem, but I have a car for that and with prices of gas how they are I don't feel it is responsible to drive a big truck back and forth 55 miles to work when I don't need to. I use my 330ci for that. I put 1.25" wheel spacer only to help the wheels stuff. I feel this truck drives better then my dad's with the 2.5" lift and OME bushings, but it is very similar feel.
2 ) Does your 80 sit level, unlike the OME setups?
Mine sits perfectly level....no futzing around, out of the box(es)
3 ) Is the ride quality harsher than your old OME setups? Especially if any of you ran without AM bumpers for a while.
I have run my dad's truck a bit...I think it is little stiffer of a ride but not my much and with the height I think most will like the stiffer ride....when I change to Bilsteins somewhere done the road that might change my mind.
4 ) Might as well ask for the mid-hub to bottom of flare measurement? I forgot....But it was the same as what other have reported before.
5 ) Big one .. are you happy as hell? Any reservations? Cautions?
VERY VERY HAPPY. My only reservation was if it would still fit in the garage and it does (just barely) and My wife was worried about being able to get into it, and get the baby into it. I went with Slee step sliders reluctantly...and now I love them and am really glad i went with them over the regular sliders!!!
1 ) Does the setup feel stable as a DD? And also remark whether you put on wider wheels, or wheel spacers.
I could use it as a DD no problem, but I have a car for that and with prices of gas how they are I don't feel it is responsible to drive a big truck back and forth 55 miles to work when I don't need to. I use my 330ci for that. I put 1.25" wheel spacer only to help the wheels stuff. I feel this truck drives better then my dad's with the 2.5" lift and OME bushings, but it is very similar feel.
2 ) Does your 80 sit level, unlike the OME setups?
Mine sits perfectly level....no futzing around, out of the box(es)
3 ) Is the ride quality harsher than your old OME setups? Especially if any of you ran without AM bumpers for a while.
I have run my dad's truck a bit...I think it is little stiffer of a ride but not my much and with the height I think most will like the stiffer ride....when I change to Bilsteins somewhere done the road that might change my mind.
4 ) Might as well ask for the mid-hub to bottom of flare measurement? I forgot....But it was the same as what other have reported before.
5 ) Big one .. are you happy as hell? Any reservations? Cautions?
VERY VERY HAPPY. My only reservation was if it would still fit in the garage and it does (just barely) and My wife was worried about being able to get into it, and get the baby into it. I went with Slee step sliders reluctantly...and now I love them and am really glad i went with them over the regular sliders!!!
FirstToy said:
hahahaha, i was just thinking the same dang thing.
Jason Andrews
Modaholic
Cruiserdrew said:Ty-Just curious why you are going to the trouble and expense of a 6 inch lift? If you don't wheel your truck, that's a lot of $$ to tie up in posing. I remember before you might come to Moab? If that's the case, what you have now is more than sufficient for the trails you might run as a newbie. BTW, I strongly encourage you to spend the $$$ on a trip like Moab, rather than random Slee bits. (As much as I like random Slee bits!!!) After the trip you'll be armed with the knowledge of what you really want and need. In my opinion, the minimum rig that will do the job you want, will get you further in the long run. If your goal is to look stylin' on the run to the fire station, that's cool too, but it's sort of like Lx_Extreme in the mirror.
If you do do the 6 inch lift, and want to test it's limits, join the Norcal wagons on the Rubicon in August. Between you and Shotts, we could have some serious fun.
I concur, save your money for a trip!!!!
dclee said:Ty -
A local SF Bay Area 80 guy, David Quach (mechanical engineer with access to a full machine shop) designed these with George Scolaro. They are thick-wall tubing like Christo's HD units, but are an additional 0.25" in length. This corrects for a standard 2.5-3" OME lift by shifting the axle BACK instead of FORWARD (which is done by the adjustable rear upper arms). What this does is keep the wheel more centered in the well instead of it shifting forward as the axle drops away (i.e. truck is lifted). If you just use adjustable upper arms, your wheelbase shrinks overall by a larger amount as the truck goes up. However, these arms were not enough to correct for the 6" lift, so I ended up getting adjustable rear uppers anyway.
Not strictly necessary, but a "very nice to have." Unfortunately, David no longer makes these arms.
These are very easy to make. Look in hardcore and you will find the ones I do.
j
Been a month since this thread got any action... great thread. TO THE TOP
I have Slees 6" kit in my rig. Over all I like it. Its a little pricy, but where else can you get a 6" Lift Kit for your cruiser.
1 ) Does the setup feel stable as a DD? And also remark whether you put on wider wheels, or wheel spacers.
I use mine as a daly driver. It feels just as stable as it used to be. As long as you dont run it like a race car, youll be fine. I do have 10" Allied beadlocks with 3.5" BS and 37X12.5x17 BFG Krawlers.
2 ) Does your 80 sit level, unlike the OME setups?
I believe she sits level. No sag what so ever, even loaded with about 500lbs, I still saw no sag.
3 ) Is the ride quality harsher than your old OME setups? Especially if any of you ran without AM bumpers for a while.
The ride is firmer, but not harsh. the Krawlers do make the ride more bumpy, and loud, but you get used to it after a week. The stock tires were quiet and smooth. Only differnce is that you sit higher
4 ) Might as well ask for the mid-hub to bottom of flare measurement?
Sorry, I dont have that.
5 ) Big one .. are you happy as hell? Any reservations? Cautions?
I am happy as hell, I wouldent go back. I did install the lift myself, It took about 20 some hours, which includes the wheel and tire installation. The Hardest part about the whole lift was removing and replacing the front stabliser shock, with the new one. Took me about 2 hours, ended up using an air hammer and a 10lb stubby hammer to get her out. I also had the use of my work shop and air compressor. I would not recomend installing this lift alone. Anything could happen. I drug my wife down for 2 days just to watch. Even if they dont help with the lift, They can pick up the phone if anything happens. Safty First.
She does seem to be a little more thirsty, Where I used to get 240-260 miles per tank, I now only get 140-160mpt. thats with the 4:10 gearing. Also with the extra width of the rims and tires and back spacing, My Krawlers are now my bump stops. I hit about an inch or so onto the tire. Ripped of one rear fender molding under some artictulation, and removed the other before it too became removed. I now rub on the fender its self, and have cut into the Krawlers about 2-3mm. Just last weekend I installed a 3" body lift to remedy this problem, My tires should now stuff into the wheel wells.
I have some picts of my ride linked here.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=55686&highlight=picts+lift+tires
The first pic. is stock, second is 6" lift and stock tires. 3ed is with the krawlers on. also have the front and rear picts. In order to use the 3.5" of BS and 10" rims from allied, I had to use longer 3" wheel studs.
-Ron
1 ) Does the setup feel stable as a DD? And also remark whether you put on wider wheels, or wheel spacers.
I use mine as a daly driver. It feels just as stable as it used to be. As long as you dont run it like a race car, youll be fine. I do have 10" Allied beadlocks with 3.5" BS and 37X12.5x17 BFG Krawlers.
2 ) Does your 80 sit level, unlike the OME setups?
I believe she sits level. No sag what so ever, even loaded with about 500lbs, I still saw no sag.
3 ) Is the ride quality harsher than your old OME setups? Especially if any of you ran without AM bumpers for a while.
The ride is firmer, but not harsh. the Krawlers do make the ride more bumpy, and loud, but you get used to it after a week. The stock tires were quiet and smooth. Only differnce is that you sit higher
4 ) Might as well ask for the mid-hub to bottom of flare measurement?
Sorry, I dont have that.
5 ) Big one .. are you happy as hell? Any reservations? Cautions?
I am happy as hell, I wouldent go back. I did install the lift myself, It took about 20 some hours, which includes the wheel and tire installation. The Hardest part about the whole lift was removing and replacing the front stabliser shock, with the new one. Took me about 2 hours, ended up using an air hammer and a 10lb stubby hammer to get her out. I also had the use of my work shop and air compressor. I would not recomend installing this lift alone. Anything could happen. I drug my wife down for 2 days just to watch. Even if they dont help with the lift, They can pick up the phone if anything happens. Safty First.
She does seem to be a little more thirsty, Where I used to get 240-260 miles per tank, I now only get 140-160mpt. thats with the 4:10 gearing. Also with the extra width of the rims and tires and back spacing, My Krawlers are now my bump stops. I hit about an inch or so onto the tire. Ripped of one rear fender molding under some artictulation, and removed the other before it too became removed. I now rub on the fender its self, and have cut into the Krawlers about 2-3mm. Just last weekend I installed a 3" body lift to remedy this problem, My tires should now stuff into the wheel wells.
I have some picts of my ride linked here.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=55686&highlight=picts+lift+tires
The first pic. is stock, second is 6" lift and stock tires. 3ed is with the krawlers on. also have the front and rear picts. In order to use the 3.5" of BS and 10" rims from allied, I had to use longer 3" wheel studs.
-Ron
honestly... being on a budget, I dont see using the 6" lift as a roi. however if you can use it just as a crawler, damn.. its a beast. Maybe once I need to get a minivan because I have so many kids.. .the 6" will be feasable. shoot you loose half the mileage... thats .50 to .70 cents a mile. with gas being what it is at $2.15 a gallon... $45 will get me 170 miles... thats many $ wasted.. unless its a dedicated 4x4.
So with this said... no more mods for the 80 series.. until I'm making 120k a year!
LOL
I figure if I buy a 40 which will be better on the trail for 2k and build it into a nice dedicated off road cruiser I will be money ahead.. over 3 years probably 8k. with 3k invested into the rig and multiple adjustments. Who cares if its a rust bucket... after all it gets abused.
So with this said... no more mods for the 80 series.. until I'm making 120k a year!
LOL
I figure if I buy a 40 which will be better on the trail for 2k and build it into a nice dedicated off road cruiser I will be money ahead.. over 3 years probably 8k. with 3k invested into the rig and multiple adjustments. Who cares if its a rust bucket... after all it gets abused.
