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ats4x4dotcom said:
Not an 80 [thread says 6" suspension] :flipoff2:

My patrol [same size as an 80, similar suspension set up] 6" springs, super long shocks, 40" tyres on 17 x 10 Allied Monster rims, no sway bars, castor correction, longer flares so fenders could be cut, and cut we did, to fit 40's with no body lift.

Turn it in hard, lifts a front wheel, left or right up to 18" in the air, but corners the same speed, just looks better :D

sliders on next week.


Lets see some flex shots, ya poser! ;p


Looks awesome btw.


:beer:


TY
 
YellowChaosfj80,


Is this pic a shot of you coming back from Harrison Hot Springs? Did you just come over a bridge over a river before the curve? Bunch of boulders below the bridge with grafitti iirc. Looks familiar ... was there a few summers ago. :beer:

attachment.php




TY
 
Why isn't anyone hammering yellowchaos for having the rear MAF control arm drop brackets? Really seemed to be a sore subject earlier. :)
 
There will be no snowballs thrown during this intercoarse! :flipoff2:


*handing CCJ a yellow card*




TY
 
Here.
P1010046.webp
MOAB2004 007.webp
 
concretejungle said:
Why isn't anyone hammering yellowchaos for having the rear MAF control arm drop brackets? Really seemed to be a sore subject earlier. :)


That was in an attempt to save some people, he's a lost soul. :D


Actually I think it points out how far they don't hang down when you have sliders mounted on. The pic in that thread was without sliders and they did appear to be hanging very much lower.
 
6" Lift

Hey TY,

I ran the OME setup with 20mm front trim packers for almost 5 years with 33's and 35's. I just recently upgraded to the full slee 6" and want to go to 37's or 38's. Yes it is just as good or better ride, obviously your gonna get more sway from being higher. The stiffer springs are money. I was always dickin around with it to get it perfected by adjusting the panhards after it settled in and rear arms for vibration. I have 15x10's with 3.75? backspacing...hey they work. Most of the guys who are adding spacers are weighted down by extra stuff winch, sliders, rear bumper, drawers,...etc. going much beyond the 6" will most likely be MUCH more trouble. My OME setup had 20mm packers in front, and i put them in with the new springs. Having a truck that sits that high, I personally like to have my caster at or above 1*. It was at 0*! Took them out cause it wasn't worth it and it gave be back a full degree on each side! BUT it is a try and see kinda thing like most. Lemme know if you have any questions. Good luck bud.

P.S. The sliders are in the works, so I won't be a poser for long!
 
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When I do this I will most likely rely on a shop of some sort to do the work. I trust the guys at Toyota, so I may go there with the work. I will print off the instructional PDF file from Slee's site, and have them give it to the mechanic a few nites before the job.

If there is any part of the install which you think I ought to draw attention to specifically when I present the instructions, by way of highlighting sections, or by direct discussion with the mechanic could you list them here for me (and others).

I will most likely not be allowed into the shop at Toyota, so I'll rely heavily on quick discussions had before the install.


It all seems pretty plug and play once they grind off the castor plates.


Should I still go over and get it aligned after the install?


I much appreciate this input!


TY
 
As far as an alignment goes the only thing that you can change easily is the toe and the lift won't effect that. After the panhards are adjusted, your steering wheel will be crooked, but that's easy enough to fix on your own.

So I see no need for an alignment unless you want to know what your alignment is at.

Other than that the install is very straight forward. Dialing in the rear driveshaft with the upper control arms is the hardest part.
 
Darwood said:
As far as an alignment goes the only thing that you can change easily is the toe and the lift won't effect that. After the panhards are adjusted, your steering wheel will be crooked, but that's easy enough to fix on your own.

So I see no need for an alignment unless you want to know what your alignment is at.

Other than that the install is very straight forward. Dialing in the rear driveshaft with the upper control arms is the hardest part.

I'm ordering tie rod ends as well, so maybe that will give them the chance to re-align the steering wheel.

Can you clarify what you mean by dialing in the rear driveshaft? Is this with the stock drive shaft. I'd like to order just a front DC driveshaft for now, and unless the rear gives me problems, leave the stock there.



TY
 
6 inch thoughts

I have mixed thoughts on my lift.. I had J's before and thought they rode AMAZING... i cant say that the ride is any better. I am not sure i am saying this right but i like the hieght, but am not crazy about the rate... seems like unless i am loaded down the springs is a bit stiff... now when i go wheeling i typically have a another person or 2 and i have gear in the back. I have no front sway bar which definetly affects DD'ing...

TY it sounds like you are mostly concerned with LOOKS ect.. I think your rig is GREAT the way it is and for what you use it for..... I personally am not sure you would see this as an upgrade in "overall performance".

I dont know of many people that leave all of thier "trail gear" in thier rig while they drive it everyday. I dont want to leave my CO2 system, spares, and gear in a rig and have it stollen. that is weight that will make it ride better.

again i dont know if i am saying this right but the rate is meant for having MORE weight...

just my .02 cents.

My rig is ARB front bumper.. currently shopping for a winch... think it will help ride (not why i am getting it but it is a by product)

I have custome front control arms so i dont have any caster or DL vibes.. Do run a CV shaft though...

I do 1 1/2 inch spacers up front..

I have a spare tire in the rear but it is alot lighter than most Slee or KM rears..

i run bilstien shocks .... the ride is good with just me BUT GREAT with me, 3 freinds and gear...

good luck on your build..

cheers

Jared


pics..
first is with J's and 35's.. kinda miss the clean functional look...

second 2 are trail pics... i havent taken many pics the last year... looks a bit different no
 
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ats4x4dotcom said:
Not an 80 [thread says 6" suspension] :flipoff2:

My patrol [same size as an 80, similar suspension set up] 6" springs, super long shocks, 40" tyres on 17 x 10 Allied Monster rims, no sway bars, castor correction, longer flares so fenders could be cut, and cut we did, to fit 40's with no body lift.

Turn it in hard, lifts a front wheel, left or right up to 18" in the air, but corners the same speed, just looks better :D

sliders on next week.





allied%20truck%20close.jpg
Who let in the Aussie poser? :flipoff2:

Custom trayback or they are avail that way?
 
Jared,


You are correct Sir .. I begin with form, and then stumble upon function along the way. ;) I take this all less seriously than some I guess .. I go with how I feel at the time, and what cash is on hand, and I move on various projects that suit the mood. Though I may be driven by asthetics at some core level, this doesn't mean I will not enjoy a very capable rig when I am done. As Slee joked once I have a very clean, zen like truck. :D Eventually I will ugly it down with body armor and bumpers .. but until then I will just enjoy the ride. Even if that means riding with ballasts of concrete mix .. :D


Thanx for your input man .. :beer:



TY
 
Junk said:
Who let in the Aussie poser? :flipoff2:

Custom trayback or they are avail that way?


There's a container coming in from AUS .. why don't you put one on your 45 Junk?


:grinpimp:
 
T Y L E R said:
I'm ordering tie rod ends as well, so maybe that will give them the chance to re-align the steering wheel.

Can you clarify what you mean by dialing in the rear driveshaft? Is this with the stock drive shaft. I'd like to order just a front DC driveshaft for now, and unless the rear gives me problems, leave the stock there.



TY

Well I'm assuming you would be going with the rear adjustable control arms for the 6 inch lift. By going with the bigger lift, the rear driveshaft's angle will change and be less than optimal and you might get vibrations. The rear adjustable control arms are there so you can align the angles on the rear driveshaft so that it's back to where it needs to go and eliminate the vibrations.

Sometimes this isn't enough and you also will need the rear DV driveshaft, in which case you will need the rear adjustable control arms to point the rear pinion at the rear transfercase output.

That's what I ment by dialing in the rear driveshaft.

Now if you're not going to go with the adjustable arms then never mind about adjusting the rear driveshaft.

Also since you're doing new tierod ends an alignment would make sense, and they should center the steering wheel at the same time.
 
Ok, I got it now. Yes I'm planning on getting the rear upper adj control arms, which I hope will be enough for now in terms of solving vibration issues in the rear.



TY
 
Ty-Just curious why you are going to the trouble and expense of a 6 inch lift? If you don't wheel your truck, that's a lot of $$ to tie up in posing. I remember before you might come to Moab? If that's the case, what you have now is more than sufficient for the trails you might run as a newbie. BTW, I strongly encourage you to spend the $$$ on a trip like Moab, rather than random Slee bits. (As much as I like random Slee bits!!!) After the trip you'll be armed with the knowledge of what you really want and need. In my opinion, the minimum rig that will do the job you want, will get you further in the long run. If your goal is to look stylin' on the run to the fire station, that's cool too, but it's sort of like Lx_Extreme in the mirror.

If you do do the 6 inch lift, and want to test it's limits, join the Norcal wagons on the Rubicon in August. Between you and Shotts, we could have some serious fun.:eek:
 
Cruiserdrew said:
If you do do the 6 inch lift, and want to test it's limits, join the Norcal wagons on the Rubicon in August. Between you and Shotts, we could have some serious fun.:eek:


Now thats funny ... I just subscribed to his thread on vibrations a few seconds ago because I wanted to have quick assess to the links Slee posted on angles and such. But as I read thru the thread I had to laugh .. with Slee pokin fun cause Shotts doesn't like to measure etc .. and thought .. Hmmm, Shotts might be a kindred Poser :D :D


I'm always up for a few laughs .. :beer: Ah hell, at least I'm honest ..


Keep ya posted!


TY
 
WELL TY not sure how far we were up the road but I think that was the second Creek from the trail head ! I was NOT going to START on the MAF !!!! but the only thing I got hung up on was my REAR diff... AND with that said that was only a angle thing, the rig was unstopple!


I did'nt Have to replace the rear DS and no vib issues.....

I did replace the front DS with A DC DS.....

The regearing is comeing and well go 4:88s

IN the pic I came off the ROCK I'M moveing and the RD. came down on a 4' rock and I had to back off and reapproach and came out smiling !
 
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Hay TY there is enough of us here that would help you put all the goodies on and you bring the :beer: and pizza and I"LL be there!
 

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