Dealer refused to use 5W-30 said it would probably blow my warranty
5W-30 motor oil
- Thread starter Joe T
- Start date
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Change it yourself, if you have to have 'proof' go buy 0w20 for the receipt and then return it and get what you want, dealerships are not the authority, they barely know up from down, one dealership might say that and another might say no problem oil is oil. if something happened they *may* check that you had oil in it, thats about it, the most important thing is using the grade for your temp range, and we have all seen the grade chart for these engines in other markets were MPG isnt the deciding factor. Of course you have to do what you think is in your best interests..... and the best 30w I can get is 'the way' for me though
The "service manager" did exactly as I would have expected; which in many cases is satisfactory. This (likely) doesn't fit in the many cases category. So, you may have to take the bull by the horns
- Thread starter
- #44
Tell them mine ran like s***, it vibrated so bad that Lexus dropped some $$$ trying to fix it aftermarket. Then a simple oil change smoothed it out. Crazy.
Next thing they are going to do is pay for some programming
. Need first gear, I bought an SUV with 10 gears not 9.
Next thing they are going to do is pay for some programming
. Need first gear, I bought an SUV with 10 gears not 9.Nice video
Ow30 may even better
Oil changes every 5K miles. Dont go 10K. Dumb toyota recs
dms
GOLD Star
I am using 5w30 now but was planning on switching to 0w30 next oil change due to the cooler weather. It is not too cold in Oklahoma, but in January and February it is not uncommon to get into the teens for lows. I wonder if the dealership stocks 0w30 or if I will need to supply my own oil.
If you want, get the supercar without the high zzdp.Oh and here is my oil update. I have like ~3,000 miles on the 5-30 mobile1 GF-6A junk but it has ran substantially better than the 0-20, its crazy. Also the motor holds 9.2 quarts iirc and I only did 7qts no filter. Its a little diluted.
Really really regret waiting till ~6k miles to do the first oil change with 0-20, ~10k 0-20, and then finally at ~13k with the 5-30 mobile. Makes me sick. If I knew what I know now I wouldn’t have driven it off the lot without swapping out the 0-20.
Going to run the 0-30 euro and dump a couple quarts of super car 0-40 in it too (what GM is using in their problematic 6.2L motors). But only 2-3 because the additive package can eventually damage the catalyst. Its also not cheap.
I need to get the programmer on it, skids, and auto start stop thing. Too many projects just need to get up early one sunday and do this stuff.
I also have some Redline D6 for the transmission and going to swap the transfercase fluid to a high quality 75w85 or 90.
Holy $%$ found the smoking gun. This is specifically what Lexus recommends for the LX700h. Turns out 0w-20 is in fact bull**** specifically for fuel efficiency. For Mexico 5w-30 and others are optional. The Mexico truck is the same as the US, same factory in Japan. Annoyed but satisfied 
There is nothing "special" about the V6 in a HV vs the gas.
7. ADD ENGINE OIL
(a) Add clean engine oil.
Standard Oil Grade (except Mexico):
Standard Oil Grade (for Mexico):
Standard Capacity:
There is nothing "special" about the V6 in a HV vs the gas. 7. ADD ENGINE OIL
(a) Add clean engine oil.
Standard Oil Grade (except Mexico):
OIL GRADE | OIL VISCOSITY (SAE) |
ILSAC GF-6A multigrade engine oil | 0W-20 |
OIL GRADE | OIL VISCOSITY (SAE) |
API grade SL "Energy-Conserving", SM "Energy-Conserving", SN "Resource-Conserving", SN PLUS "Resource-Conserving" or SP "Resource-Conserving"; or ILSAC GF-6A multigrade engine oil | 0W-20 5W-20 5W-30 10W-30 |
ITEM | SPECIFIED CONDITION |
Drain and refill without oil filter change | 7.0 liters (7.4 US qts, 6.2 Imp. qts) |
Drain and refill with oil filter change | 7.3 liters (7.7 US qts, 6.4 Imp. qts) |
Dry fill | 9.2 liters (9.7 US qts, 8.1 Imp. qts) |
Holy $%$ found the smoking gun. This is specifically what Lexus recommends for the LX700h. Turns out 0w-20 is in fact bull**** specifically for fuel efficiency. For Mexico 5w-30 and others are optional. The Mexico truck is the same as the US, same factory in Japan. Annoyed but satisfied
7. ADD ENGINE OIL
(a) Add clean engine oil.
Standard Oil Grade (except Mexico):
Standard Oil Grade (for Mexico):
OIL GRADE
Standard Capacity:
OIL GRADE
5W-20
5W-30
10W-30
Using the sp rated oil will keep the valvetrain the cleanest**
Last edited:
dms
GOLD Star
I am assuming that the ChatGPT research included Amzoil in its research. I have gone back and forth with Amzoil for years and am getting ready to put Amzoil 0w30 in both my 18 LC and 24LX. My last change in the LX was 5w30 that was whatever brand the dealership uses. This may be a stupid question but what are the "downpipes"? 0w40 is intriguing.
- Thread starter
- #53
Amsoil signature series in 5-30 and 0-30: Less viscosity than 0-30 mobile 1 euro. Higher ZDDP, but over the safe limit for modern catalyst. Higher TBN for longer drain intervals especially in GDI/Turbo engines.
Similar moly additive amounts.
Mobile with its higher viscosity, higher film strength at higher temps, higher HTHS, and max safe additive package wins it for me. I am not too concerned with long change intervals in this car.
Downpipes means remove the catalyst eventually so I can run something with a different additive package.
dms
GOLD Star
Thanks for the info!!
- Thread starter
- #57
If you can get chatgpt to cooperate, it can take you way down the rabbit hole of making charts comparing oils.
You will need to cross check it and separately then use it to search forums where people lab tested stuff, and then have it correct anything. Once you train it its pretty accurate too.
You will need to cross check it and separately then use it to search forums where people lab tested stuff, and then have it correct anything. Once you train it its pretty accurate too.
yes, just group thinkers that can only parrot what they are told think otherwise,
