5W-30 motor oil

[henke]

This is an interesting point.

If the oil pump is programmed to output a given pressure, and you increase the viscosity without increasing the output pressure, that must mean you are decreasing the flow rate of the oil.

Does that mean that if you just go from 0w20 to 5w30 without changing anything else, you will get less oil delivered to and cycled through your engine?

 

[Joe T]

Its a mechanical pump. This was covered in this or another thread.

You also have to remember at cold temps the 20 is much thicker than a 30 weight at operating temp. It can handle that range.

 

[bj70bc]

ya

 

[henke]

Its a mechanical pump. This was covered in this or another thread.

You also have to remember at cold temps the 20 is much thicker than a 30 weight at operating temp. It can handle that range.

Doesn't it mean that it is definitely a constant pressure delivery pump if it is a purely mechanical pump which hasn't got an electronic control unit adjusting the valve PID for constant flow?

I'm not worried about a cold 20 vs a warm 30, I'm worried about a cold 20 vs a cold 30, during startup, when you'd want as much coverage as fast as possible. If the pump ends up delivering a lower flow rate of oil because it's set to a pressure which was designed for a oil with lower viscosity, isn't that bad during the period with most wear?

 

[bj70bc]

no, 0w is 0w, whether its 0w20 or 0w30 on startup... 30 is hot viscosity

 

[henke]

no, 0w is 0w, whether its 0w20 or 0w30 on startup... 30 is hot viscosity

Oh yeah sorry, should have clarified. I'm talking about 0w20 to 5w30.

 

[bj70bc]

ya run a 0w (30) if youre in 5deg f winter weather or colder, run a 5w (30) if your in the summer there
you can swap viscosity summer to winter

 

[gerryvz]

Well, I did it. 5w30. Dealer didn't object and even said many have been doing this to prevent against engine failure.

Can't tell a difference in smoothness.

Yep, I just did the same with my dealer. Told the service advisor I wanted 5W-30. He said absolutely no problem, and I confirmed it on the invoice at check-out.

 

[ekolpack]

This video will be useful to this conversation:

 

[Pighead]

This video will be useful to this conversation:

Indeed. See post #11 in this thread...

 

[bones25]

Anyone from Houston, or other hotter areas recommend 5w-30? Especially for a higher mileage vehicle (170k+)

 

[eNx]

Anyone from Houston, or other hotter areas recommend 5w-30? Especially for a higher mileage vehicle (170k+)

You're already at 170k+ ?

 

[bones25]

You're already at 170k+ ?

Closer to 180k, extremely high mileage

 

[VPP]

Dropped the 0W-20 at a 4700 mile interval (total mileage is ~14k) and refilled it with 5-30 Mobil1 (the black and gray label guaranteed for 10,000 miles).

Very noticeable difference. No shaking at start up, didn’t notice any stumbling idle, less shakey when accelerating. Only put around 20 miles on it, some highway and some city.

2024 LX600 3.4TT

Yep, you have one of the covid year engines, robotic spraying to clean engines after the machining when staff was very limited. Despite visual inspections, machining debris is usually left in new engines now days, with very thin oil, and tight tolerances, harder bearing materials, leave no room to absorb debris between moving parts. The thin oil is OEM's answer to better MPG from EPA regs., so going to heavier oil did yourself a favor. Stick with it as it protects moving parts better, and if your vehicle shuts off when stopping, get rid of it, when the engine restarts, the thin oil does nothing to protect engine bearings until pressure is built up again.

 

[bj70bc]

there are stop start defeat devices, i have one

 

[Joe T]

Yep, you have one of the covid year engines, robotic spraying to clean engines after the machining when staff was very limited. Despite visual inspections, machining debris is usually left in new engines now days, with very thin oil, and tight tolerances, harder bearing materials, leave no room to absorb debris between moving parts. The thin oil is OEM's answer to better MPG from EPA regs., so going to heavier oil did yourself a favor. Stick with it as it protects moving parts better, and if your vehicle shuts off when stopping, get rid of it, when the engine restarts, the thin oil does nothing to protect engine bearings until pressure is built up again.

I am literally days out of the recall. 4/24

But they did change some part numbers on the lower end. Hopefully the improved bearing had lead or something soft added to absorb the “debris”.


Its hard to believe there were still covid mandates in place even after 2023, they really chugged that Kool-aide.

 

[Joe T]

Anyone from Houston, or other hotter areas recommend 5w-30? Especially for a higher mileage vehicle (170k+)

Yes in Houston. It runs so so much smoother with 30 wt oil. Like you cant feel the engine running and it got rid of that horrible jitter/vibration mine had at moderate acceleration.

I am running 0w-30 Mobile 1 European formula and one quart of 0w-40 Mobile 1 super car mixed in during the summer. I get the 0-30 from walmart delivery. Gets me to right under 40wt.

But 5w-30 GF7 worked well too. The dealer carries that.

DIY- Change it around 5k and you can skip the filter just change it at the next 5k (like the factory recommends ~10k). Otherwise around 6,500 miles it isnt getting too dark.

I think one of the down sides is the larger the gap between the 2 numbers requires earlier changes because it relies more on additives to get that large temperature range.

 

[VPP]

I am literally days out of the recall. 4/24

But they did change some part numbers on the lower end. Hopefully the improved bearing had lead or something soft added to absorb the “debris”.


Its hard to believe there were still covid mandates in place even after 2023, they really chugged that Kool-aide.

They are still living with the problems today if you look on you tube there is one after another documentary where new trucks and other vehicles are losing engines from fire or seizing up while driving way before the warranty is up, some owners on 2nd and 3rd engines, it's a mess, and if your vehicle is beyond warranty, it can be a $15,000 dollar bill. Automakers know the problem with there processing, and have chosen to place the expense on the owners end. If you can, think about coverage from an independent warranty company. Because of the EPA requirements automakers have dropped the bigger C.I.D. or Liter engines for smaller engines with turbos and they just work themselves to death, higher rpms, turbos running over 1,000 degrees trying to keep them lubricated with the thin engine oil, machining tolerances extremely close, they're just not as forgiving like the older big Liter engines.

 

[Joe T]

Only $15,000?

That makes me more optimistic about pulling the ECU and getting it bench tuned.

And yeah everytime it jumps up boost trying to stay in a higher gear when accelerating i cringe a little. Then you have the converter that constantly locks even down at single digit speeds bumping along. They really drank that CO2 Koolaide putting out this crap.