Haven't checked mileage yet. Just used the rig for hunting/mild off road. I installed an aftermarket fuel cell and having issues with getting a fuel gauge to read the sending unit (the one Mark's Off road sells). Just keep a can of gas near.
5VZ-FE swap into '74 FJ40 Project
- Thread starter AlexJet
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #22
I'm renovating my basement, so my desktop computer is packed in the boxes. I'll post up some pictures of the progress later.
Meanwhile, the 5VZ-FE Engine and R150F Transmission went out of the Tacoma 2 weeks ago.
One of the motor mounts (engine side) needed to be fixed as it was bent slightly. The engine needed a little taking care of. Both pulleys been replaced. Even the owner mentioned the engine was around 200'000km on it, belt seemed original and it looks like the actual mileage on the engine either less then 200 or it was nicely driven. Both fact are on my side. I did changed the timing belt and the water pump. As the vehicle was sitting outside for at least 6 month without a movement on the yard alternator was seized up and I had to rebuild it. Power steering pump was missing, so short trip to the yard was necessary to bring another one. I also grabbed power steering hoses as I'd reuse their pump side connectors to build custom hoses to connect saginaw box to toyota pump. I got used pulleys and the fan bracket from another forum member as mine had bad bearing.
EDIT:
5VZ-FE out of Tacoma:
PS Pump:
Meanwhile, the 5VZ-FE Engine and R150F Transmission went out of the Tacoma 2 weeks ago.
One of the motor mounts (engine side) needed to be fixed as it was bent slightly. The engine needed a little taking care of. Both pulleys been replaced. Even the owner mentioned the engine was around 200'000km on it, belt seemed original and it looks like the actual mileage on the engine either less then 200 or it was nicely driven. Both fact are on my side. I did changed the timing belt and the water pump. As the vehicle was sitting outside for at least 6 month without a movement on the yard alternator was seized up and I had to rebuild it. Power steering pump was missing, so short trip to the yard was necessary to bring another one. I also grabbed power steering hoses as I'd reuse their pump side connectors to build custom hoses to connect saginaw box to toyota pump. I got used pulleys and the fan bracket from another forum member as mine had bad bearing.
EDIT:
5VZ-FE out of Tacoma:
PS Pump:
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #23
I sold my original 2F with 4-speed and TC to another forum member who bought 55-series with seized engine. My engine was still running good and had a plenty of lifetime left, so it will be a good use on the 55.
One thing I wanted to note how heavy are the F-series engines. Even I removed the bib, fenders and aprons, so I don't have to pull the engine up, it was a challange to get it out due to weight. My 2F engine crane was barely lufting it. I'd need to mentioned that it was bellow zero outside and crane cylinder even stalled once. To be able to put on the bed of 3/4 ton truck I had to use the hoist, as my engine crane could not lift it that high with all the weight, even when I took transmission and transfer case out.
Compare to 2F, 5VZ-FE is much lighter engine. It actually more compact too.
EDIT:
2F Out of my Land Cruiser:
4-Speed with Transfer Case:
One thing I wanted to note how heavy are the F-series engines. Even I removed the bib, fenders and aprons, so I don't have to pull the engine up, it was a challange to get it out due to weight. My 2F engine crane was barely lufting it. I'd need to mentioned that it was bellow zero outside and crane cylinder even stalled once. To be able to put on the bed of 3/4 ton truck I had to use the hoist, as my engine crane could not lift it that high with all the weight, even when I took transmission and transfer case out.
Compare to 2F, 5VZ-FE is much lighter engine. It actually more compact too.
EDIT:
2F Out of my Land Cruiser:
4-Speed with Transfer Case:
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #24
A week ago my new Transfer Case was delivered along with an adapter for R150F and a twin-stick.
One of the things I mentioned about Inchworm as how acurate and quality built their products are. Shine blue color on the transfer case, perfectly clean, brand new 3-pattern flanges, all just looks amazing.
So assembly process has started. With Joshbhelp I did assemple the adapter giving it 15 degrees to increase the ground clearance. One if the advantages of Inchworm adapters as you can clock transfer case to -10, 0, 5 or 15 degrees depend on your installation. The only downside I noticed is that at 15 degrees transmission shifter hits twin stick in 4th gear. I'd need to reshape the transmission shifter, so it woukd miss transfer case shifters.
I did also ordered Marlin Crawler Rock Crawling Clutch. While I have everything on the ground it was a good time to install a new clutch with bearings too.
One tging I didn't plan on initially, but had to do is a Parking Brake. In the beginning I was hoping I'd be able to reuse original Land Cruiser transfer case brake, but after I removed my old setup, I realized it would be nearly impossible. Other options were getting some Chevy callipers with parking brake (I have disc conversion) or source another transfer case parking brake. My search brought me to All-Pro disc transfer case parking brake. It was designed for 1st gen 4Runner and was fitting my transfer case perfectly. So I ordered it up. Seems like All-Pro has those in high demand as I was told I'd need to wait 2 weeks till new batch will be in stock. Will see how it turns out.
EDIT:
Inchworm 4.7:1 TC with Passenger side drop:
Inchworm Tacoma Adapter with Marlin Crawler Rock Crawling Clutch and TrailGear Twin Stick:
Test fitting adapter to the Transfer Case:
Test fitting adapter to the R150F Transmission:
One of the things I mentioned about Inchworm as how acurate and quality built their products are. Shine blue color on the transfer case, perfectly clean, brand new 3-pattern flanges, all just looks amazing.
So assembly process has started. With Joshbhelp I did assemple the adapter giving it 15 degrees to increase the ground clearance. One if the advantages of Inchworm adapters as you can clock transfer case to -10, 0, 5 or 15 degrees depend on your installation. The only downside I noticed is that at 15 degrees transmission shifter hits twin stick in 4th gear. I'd need to reshape the transmission shifter, so it woukd miss transfer case shifters.
I did also ordered Marlin Crawler Rock Crawling Clutch. While I have everything on the ground it was a good time to install a new clutch with bearings too.
One tging I didn't plan on initially, but had to do is a Parking Brake. In the beginning I was hoping I'd be able to reuse original Land Cruiser transfer case brake, but after I removed my old setup, I realized it would be nearly impossible. Other options were getting some Chevy callipers with parking brake (I have disc conversion) or source another transfer case parking brake. My search brought me to All-Pro disc transfer case parking brake. It was designed for 1st gen 4Runner and was fitting my transfer case perfectly. So I ordered it up. Seems like All-Pro has those in high demand as I was told I'd need to wait 2 weeks till new batch will be in stock. Will see how it turns out.
EDIT:
Inchworm 4.7:1 TC with Passenger side drop:
Inchworm Tacoma Adapter with Marlin Crawler Rock Crawling Clutch and TrailGear Twin Stick:
Test fitting adapter to the Transfer Case:
Test fitting adapter to the R150F Transmission:
Last edited:
40Habits
Sure... why not
From what I remember, if you clock the adapter on a passenger side drop you are clocking it down. You should use the 0* holes (stock), other wise you are lowering your drive shaft.
- Thread starter
- #26
Its reversible. When you read instructions it stays for passenger side you reverse the numbers. I looked at 0 and 15 and 15 was higher. On opposite side of the adapter there is 0 and 10. I used 0 as 10 would of get me lower. Basically I was checking on the transfer case visually as instructions were confusing me a bit with numbers.
- Thread starter
- #27
The engine went in. Had to do some tweaking till got it into the position I wanted it to be.
Motor mounts had to be fabricated and welded on to the frame to support the engine. This was the main challenge of the operation as it will determine all next steps. It took me and my friend 2 hours before we got the engine in its sweat spot. Allot of things need to be considered such as fender and hood clearance, spacing to the radiator, firewall clearance, future axle movement, transmission leaver position and transfer case clearance as well as driveshafts locations.
EDIT:
Engine is getting ready to roll into the vehicle:
Initial vertical alignment of the components from the cabin:
Positioning the engine in the engine bay:
Found "sweet spot":
Motor mounts had to be fabricated and welded on to the frame to support the engine. This was the main challenge of the operation as it will determine all next steps. It took me and my friend 2 hours before we got the engine in its sweat spot. Allot of things need to be considered such as fender and hood clearance, spacing to the radiator, firewall clearance, future axle movement, transmission leaver position and transfer case clearance as well as driveshafts locations.
EDIT:
Engine is getting ready to roll into the vehicle:
Initial vertical alignment of the components from the cabin:
Positioning the engine in the engine bay:
Found "sweet spot":
Last edited:
RustyNailJustin
Supporting Vendor
Get some pictures rolling man. You are correct in stating there is a lot to be considered when you are trying to find the best location for the motor. And the fact that the 5VZFE is really really tall does not help make it easier.
I think you read my whole thread but some of those images should help you locate the best spot.
I think you read my whole thread but some of those images should help you locate the best spot.
- Thread starter
- #29
I'll as soon as I put my desktop on. Basement is nearly finished, so hopping to start putting it back together on the weekend.
- Thread starter
- #30
Placed an engine high, so its not interfear with suspension. Was surprised with end result. My oil pan actually came nearly flush with the lower edge of the frame rail... and I got about 1-1/2" of hood clearance.
One good thing is that I can do skid plating easy.
EDIT:
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #31
My basement is 90% done. Desktop is up again.
I'm starting load up pictures and posting them up.
Stay tuned...
I'm starting load up pictures and posting them up.
Stay tuned...
- Thread starter
- #32
I have to reinforce the frame rails when was building the frame portion of the motor mounts as original FJ40 frame has allot of holes. From one point of view its good as you have allot of airflow in and should prevent build-up of the moisture, but if you need to weld something reinforcements are need to go in.
- Thread starter
- #33
I have optioned to switch the Oil Pan from Tacoma's version to the T100 version as the T100 is rear sump vs front sump of Tacoma/4Runner version. This should help clear the axle 3rd member as the lowest point gets moved backward quest a good distance.
As I was replacing the oil pan I faced that original dipstick is not in use any more. Toyota does have rear dipstick for T100 and the interesting point as the block still has the location for it, its just not drilled out. I sourced out ORS dipstick guide and drilled a new location. Then I installed new OEM T100 bung and the dipstick. My motor mount need to be modified to clear new dipstick, but this was an easy one.
As I was replacing the oil pan I faced that original dipstick is not in use any more. Toyota does have rear dipstick for T100 and the interesting point as the block still has the location for it, its just not drilled out. I sourced out ORS dipstick guide and drilled a new location. Then I installed new OEM T100 bung and the dipstick. My motor mount need to be modified to clear new dipstick, but this was an easy one.
- Thread starter
- #34
As the engine got itself mounted on the front portion. I needed to work out something as the rear mount for Transfer Case. There are several options available on the market to start with. I looked at the original mount. It seemed Ok to me, just it was hanging too low. So I looked at what can be done to clear it. And so some "fancy" crossmember was fabricated to clear the Transfer case and front driveshaft.
- Thread starter
- #35
Rebuild Alternator went it as the original was seized up. Nice looking unit. Rebuild shop made a good job of cleaning and making it look like new. You can also see the rear dipstick on this picture. Its furthest one. I thought of getting rid of the old one, but then would need to deal with plugging the hole. So far its not disturbing me, so I left it where it was. Now I have 2 dipsticks... 
- Thread starter
- #36
I got my exhaust re-routed to the driver side as original Land Cruiser was. Stock 5VZ-FE is on the passenger side as Tacoma has driver side diff. In my case I retain Land Cruiser HJ60 front axle, so my front driveshaft is on the passenger side. I use ORS idea of flipping a crosspipe to the other side.
Looks like I still have enough room to the firewall.
Looks like I still have enough room to the firewall.
- Thread starter
- #37
My Fan pulley bracket gone bad and I needed a new one. I also was missing the fan pulleys. Thanks to fellow forum member who was parting his engine I got good bracket with pulleys.
Got OEM Alternator and PS pump belts.
Got OEM Alternator and PS pump belts.
- Thread starter
- #38
Working on the wiring I decided to keep the original looms and firewall seals.
The T100 exhaust runs down the passenger side with the driveshaft, of course the chassis is wider on a T100 so there is room for it. But the pipe and front cat just parallel the front driveshaft, looks like you may have room enough. But it also looks like you have already cut on the pipes to do the drivers side route.
Looks like the fan will be kind of low, maybe I'm seeing it wrong, do you think it will still work with the factory radiator position?
Looks like the fan will be kind of low, maybe I'm seeing it wrong, do you think it will still work with the factory radiator position?
- Thread starter
- #40
Exhaust is already on the driver side.
The fan did worked with 40-series radiator. Checked it this afternoon.
