4runner calliper conversion worthiness?

[LT1-62]

Hey does anyone have a feel for how much difference the calliper conversion (that we hear so much about) actually makes? Can you actually feel a difference? Or is the difference (modest or otherwise) only demonstratable with a long ass tape measure and a stop watch. Im only asking cause a pair of callipers have come up and Im only really interested if the difference is significant.

 

[Poser]

What year are the calipers?

V6?

 

[HZJ60 Guy]

Well let's review some physics. The caliper is what clamps down on the rotor.

Four (skin) runner calipers have larger plungers, and equal plungers (four the same size).

That means that there is more torque and pressure clamping down on the rotor.


So in review, yes they are warrented.



Thanks class.


TB

 

[Tinker]

But if you run larger-than-stock-diameter tires you lose mechanical advantage, regardless of MC-to-caliper piston area ratio.

And if you change your MC so you get the additional volume you need with the bigger pistons(especially with rear discs) you're probably back where you started.

 

[Doc]

Running the larger tires with the larger brakes probobly puts you back to stock brake feel.

BUT.... that's better than the non-sufficient brakes I have now.

 

[LT1-62]

Yes I realise that the bigger callipers = more clamping pressure = better stopping power. What I am looking for here is a cost benefit ratio. Is there anyone who has done the conversion and then actually noticed a significant difference?

 

[beanz2]

I did it on two cruisers, there was noticeable difference on one, the other was barely noticeable although I went from 33" to 37" tires at the same time.

Dave

 

[Doc]

On a street driven cruiser better stopping power is priceless.

 

[hilander]

Just a question for those who have done this conversion. Did you install a line lock for a parking brake or did you fab a parking brake system?

 

[Doc]

We're talking about FRONT brakes here- no need for parking brake except on the rear.

Unless you like to be different.

 

[hilander]

OK, I thought we were kind of talking about the whole rig, my bad. Still I would like to know if anyone uses a line lock?

Good times.

 

[HZJ60 Guy]

Yes I realise that the bigger callipers = more clamping pressure = better stopping power. What I am looking for here is a cost benefit ratio. Is there anyone who has done the conversion and then actually noticed a significant difference?

Im running an FJ80 master cylinder and power booster. Four runner calipers and vented disks all around. The truck stops like an f-in race car with 42" swampers on it!


So cost or no cost, it's worth it. Nothing is more important than being able to stop!




TB

 

[LT1-62]

hmmmm, thats pretty much what I wanted to hear, going from 33"s to 37"s and still noticing a difference (even a minor one) means a fairly significant increase in braking competency. Likewise, stopping like a race car sounds like a bit of me although I think Ill go for the whole 80 series rear end complete with elocker before I start messing with the rear brakes.. Thanks guys

 

[HZJ60 Guy]

hmmmm, thats pretty much what I wanted to hear, going from 33"s to 37"s and still noticing a difference (even a minor one) means a fairly significant increase in braking competency. Likewise, stopping like a race car sounds like a bit of me although I think Ill go for the whole 80 series rear end complete with elocker before I start messing with the rear brakes.. Thanks guys

I can not over estimate how well she stops now!



TB

 

[Mark W]

The expense of swapping the late model mini-truck calipers on to the front is minimal. It doesn't require a larger M/C or any other changes. The perceived difference when no other mods are done varies from barely noticable to very apparent by the seat of the pants comparision.

I've done it on a handful of rigs.

 

[Boston Mangler]

The expense of swapping the late model mini-truck calipers on to the front is minimal. It doesn't require a larger M/C or any other changes..

See my above post. When i did this caliper upgrade, i tried it withOUT changing the MC and the brakes were actually worse. I had MUCH more pedal travel and they didnt clamp at all when stomped on. I changed the MC and rebled the system, got up to 35mph, mashed the brakes and all for tires locked and it skidded to a halt on a dime! The MC made a HUGE difference in my instance. I know some folks says its fine without, but mine sure wasnt!

My .02

 

[Mark W]

Not at all arguing your experience. But like I mentioned I have done this on a few rigs. At least half a dozen that I can remember right now. Two of which are daily driver/trail rigs for me at the moment.

 

[Boston Mangler]

Not at all arguing your experience. But like I mentioned I have done this on a few rigs. At least half a dozen that I can remember right now. Two of which are daily driver/trail rigs for me at the moment.

No Sweat Man! More power to ya if it works! Have a good weekend!

Also, are you the mark from NJ that i have wheeled with a few times? grey FJ62? wotovich or something of that nature? If so, hows it going, if not, sorry!

 

[freebornred]

4runner calipers

hey guys mayby it all depends on the year of your rigs or condition, i did the swap on my 87 fj60 and didnt neeed to change the m/c , she grabs fine ,with a firm peddle feel ! but i must say i am curious to see if the fj80 m/c will make any noticeble gains on my rig.

oh and yes its well worth it as far as cost to gain!
my 0.2cents

 

[cruiserbrett]

See my above post. When i did this caliper upgrade, i tried it withOUT changing the MC and the brakes were actually worse. I had MUCH more pedal travel and they didnt clamp at all when stomped on. I changed the MC and rebled the system, got up to 35mph, mashed the brakes and all for tires locked and it skidded to a halt on a dime! The MC made a HUGE difference in my instance. I know some folks says its fine without, but mine sure wasnt!

My .02

Kev,
The swap works fine with the 7/8" bore master. You had a bad master cylinder. Otherwise there is no way the pedal should randomly drop like it did. If you like a firm pedal with minimal travel, go for the 1" bore, if you want a somewhat softer pedal with more travel, go for the 7/8".

I just took your old master cylinder apart and its certainly bad. There is sand sized rust particles on the paper towel I fished out with my finger and the front piston is physically stuck in the bore. all the dark stuff is rust and dirt. I guess you got some water contamination...