4Lo/Hi toggle knob broke

[montegofd3s]

Merry Christmas Mud! Was curious if anyone else had their 4Lo/Hi toggle knob break? The plastic knob now seems to rotate on the switch mechanism without actually turning the switch. I can take the plastic knob off, push in the switch and turn it to make the transfer case engage properly, but was curious if anyone else has had to replace this? It doesn't appear broken or cracked anywhere which just seems odd. Any advice would be appreciated if someone knows a fix, and if this a common issue?

I did find what I believe is a replacement, but it seems to be the whole switch assembly since its almost 90 bucks.

Switch - Toyota (84223-60010)​

I do wish the 200 had a simple shifter like my Hundy. Anywho, happy new years!

 

[PDoyle]

I've seen that switch for sale on eBay.

 

[bloc]

Possible to attach some detailed pics of the back of the control knob and pivot it mounts to?

 

[forwardnum1]

A similar thing happens to my 4Runner and I had good luck repairing the knob. The splines on the knob that engage the actual switch broke which locked me into 4h. I assume they are similar knobs. My switch still functioned and with the 4Runner the knob was only available as the entire assembly for $170 iirc. I used a bit of sandpaper to clean up where the knob and switch meet, sprayed it with isopropyl alcohol and used JB weld plastic putty to create new splines. There may be better adhesives out these but this fix was invisible unless you removed the knob and functioned without a hitch for years until I sold the 4Runner.

 

[DPA200]

I think I have read about 50 threads on every version of the 4Lo actuator issues. I've had my share of the issue over the years, annoying but fine. I pretty much hadn't switched to Lo range since summer, and it cooled off in Phoenix, so that left me with the blinking light and not switching. My 4Lo has never been fast to switch, and has been stuck in low a few times on cold high elevation camp mornings, but always worked again once warmed up. This time I did all the usual tips and eventually it worked. Made it my mission to engage 4lo daily to avoid having this happen again. The other pro was with all the tips I finally got my CDL working in low and hi which has never both worked for me.

Well that was a couple weeks ago and I was keeping up with daily engaging all fine. Then yesterday I tried the to switch to low, and nothing. No lights, no noise, nothing. Went back to mud read and read and nobody I could see had this same issue. I was positive 139k later my 08 4Lo actuator had finally died completely. Did a quick part search.....OUCH!!! Ouch big time. $1k ish part plus some saying 6-8 hr labor???

The I stumbled upon this thread. Pulled the nob straight off and saw a small piece of cracked black plastic on the cylinder of the knob itself. Hi, Low, Hi, Low, finally realized it was just spinning free and that's why no lights or noises....it wasn't doing anything. Got out a pair of pliers, pushed and rotated and boom engages just as good as ever. So hopefully this is good news. I toyed with the idea of epoxy or super glue or something to permanently attach the knob. Did a search for the part (toyota 84223-60010), under $100 ....sold

Toyota Land Cruiser 2008-2011 OEM Genuine Transfer Position Switch 84223-60010 | eBay

TOYOTA GENUINE. LEXUS GENUINE.

www.ebay.com

84223-60010 - Switch 2008-2011 Toyota Land Cruiser | Ourisman Toyota Parts

Save Money On Your Switch (8422360010) For Your 2008-2011 Toyota Land Cruiser When You Shop With Ourisman Toyota Parts!

toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com

So 1 thing I can't find is a story of anybody who has changed this out. Looking for tips and tricks I haven't done anything yet. Curious if anybody who has opened up this area can help advise me. Wondering if I can pull this whole thing out from the front, or if the silver trim and more needs to come apart. Thoughts?

 

[DPA200]

Did a little more digging in daylight and found an easy "fix" for my issue. Turns out the only thing broken on mine was the plastic toggle knob itself. Musta exercised it a bit too much . 1st pic you can see with the arrow showing the black plastic cylinder was cracked, so it no longer gripped and turned the white rod that actually shifts. Odd part is it still felt like it had resistance when I'd turn it, so didn't feel like it was just spinning free or anything.

I scrapped the idea of epoxy or something permanent, didn't want to risk it dripping somewhere or causing more harm. Found one of my kids floss pics, cut a lil scrap of plastic off and jammed it in there. Problem solved, it grips now and shifts again no problem.

When i realized it was just the plastic knob that was broken, I really couldn't justify spending $80 for the whole shift assembly.

Here is the fix, classy huh? I even left the strand of dental floss so I could pull it out easy if it didn't work

 

[PDoyle]

Better put a pink spare in your glove

 

[BVE]

Might be able to use a zip tie to go around that for a more permanent hack but this is awesome and hilarious. Nice work.

 

[DPA200]

Better put a pink spare in your glove

Oh I did already for sure, and I made sure was pink. I'm pretty sure that was the secret to my success

 

[TeCKis300]

If you're looking for a more permanent fix, epoxy putties would work pretty well

Amazon product ASIN B01ETX4590

 

[DPA200]

If you're looking for a more permanent fix, epoxy putties would work pretty well

Amazon product ASIN B01ETX4590

Can't think of many things in life more permanent than a pink floss pick , but great idea. Expoxy putty, not sure if i knew that existed. Actually I think i have some i bought for a plumbing project that i never got to. Perfect, thx for the tip