I have my engine torn down right now, and it looks to me that there was no gasket on there at all, just the O-ring. There is no gasket for it in my kit either, albeit circumstantial.
My alternator and ac compressor mount....
The alternator fits on the bottom and seems stock but the truck didn't hsve AC so I had to make a mount for it. Was simple enough as there were two holes for the pivot bar and I then made a tensioner with some all thread and nuts. Not sure I have any pictures.
Thanks guys, its going back in tomorrow. Got it all cleaned up and painted yesterday. Its about done
Mitch, have you gotten all of your leaks and small things worked out? Also, are you sure that the motor mounts should be cut at 40* ?? Seems pretty steep.
No I haven't gotten it all sorted. I am still dealing with the engine height. Everything else has been stopped. I disconnected the heater and I will look for the oil leaks when I change the oil again. I think most of the leaks are around the oil pan and then the turbo oil drain. I do get to drive it around which is nice and I definitely mark my territory. Im taking to a shop to help with the engine height. I either need to box the firewall or move the whole thing forward. It's a very hard decision to figure out.
Take a look at the engine mounts attached to the engine, they are pretty steep. I don't remember what I had them cut at, but j copied Doug.
Hope you don't mind me posting a few pictures on your thread Mitch. I can't seem to figure out the angle of the motor mounts. As you can see from my pictures, the front of the frame is level from left to right. The angle finder is on the stock mount and shows 25 degrees. Hope you are some one can add to this. I looked at your picture and Doug720, and if you copied his then that puts it at 40 degrees on the cut. Just seems like a really steep angle. Sorry for the hijack.
On my swap the angle was 41 degrees and I used the Isuzu engine mounts to measure it. I positioned my engine by bolting the engine to the bell housing/transmission/transfer case. I never removed or moved the trans assy from the stock position.
To set the new front mount position and engine height, I measured the drive shaft angles. I wanted to keep the angle stock to eliminate vibrations. I had the Isuzu motor mounts attached to the engine and had cut the 3X6x3/16 steel tube at 41 degrees and clamped it to the motor mounts. Scribed the holes to attach to the Isuzu mounts and marked the overall length to trim.
I bolted the steel mount to the engine mounts, checked the positions one last time and tacked the steel mounts in place. Removed the engine and welded the mounts in place.
To make engine trans alignment and installation easier, take 2 trans to bell housing bolts and cut the hex head off. Take a hack saw or wheel grinder and cut a slot across the non-threaded end. This makes a screwdriver slot.
Install 2 bolts at opposite corners. This will guide the trans in place easily. Install the 2 regular bolts and use a big standard screwdriver to remove the 2 special bolts.
There are a bunch of pictures in my thread also that talks about this also.
Hey Mitch, got a quick question for you. What size fittings did you use for the block off plate on the engine? Are they standard fittings and are they Earl's Fittings? Trying to get that on the motor before I mount it in the frame.
Made a part for my motor today. When I was putting it back together, I couldn't find one of the banjo bolts. Why buy one when you can make it yourself. Had a little extra time today at work and made one. The old one on the left and the one I made on the right.
Hey Mitch, got a quick question for you. What size fittings did you use for the block off plate on the engine? Are they standard fittings and are they Earl's Fittings? Trying to get that on the motor before I mount it in the frame.
Made a part for my motor today. When I was putting it back together, I couldn't find one of the banjo bolts. Why buy one when you can make it yourself. Had a little extra time today at work and made one. The old one on the left and the one I made on the right.
Used a lathe and a milling machine to do the banjo bolt.
The one that Dustin redesigned for our application. It is the one that goes where the oil filter housing use to go on the side of the engine case. I tried two different fittings today and neither one were really tight going in.
Used a lathe and a milling machine to do the banjo bolt.
The one that Dustin redesigned for our application. It is the one that goes where the oil filter housing use to go on the side of the engine case. I tried two different fittings today and neither one were really tight going in.
I'm taking machine shop classes at work....or more a guy at work is teaching me stuff and I'm looking for projects.
They were metric thread. M8 maybe? I tapped all of my holes when I had the engine broken down so they were nice and clean. Maybe the need a light tapping?
I'm taking machine shop classes at work....or more a guy at work is teaching me stuff and I'm looking for projects.
They were metric thread. M8 maybe? I tapped all of my holes when I had the engine broken down so they were nice and clean. Maybe the need a light tapping?
That is awesome that you are learning some machining, it helps out a lot when doing fab work for this engine. It also helps for any other type of project when you have a lot of fab.
I tried a -5 AN fitting for the small hole and a -10 for the big one. They threaded in pretty good but were a little loose. Maybe if I put an o-ring on the fitting. I think that would keep it from leaking.
That is awesome that you are learning some machining, it helps out a lot when doing fab work for this engine. It also helps for any other type of project when you have a lot of fab.
I tried a -5 AN fitting for the small hole and a -10 for the big one. They threaded in pretty good but were a little loose. Maybe if I put an o-ring on the fitting. I think that would keep it from leaking.
I tried a -5 AN fitting for the small hole and a -10 for the big one. They threaded in pretty good but were a little loose. Maybe if I put an o-ring on the fitting. I think that would keep it from leaking.
AN is a tapered hydraulic fitting. Sounds like you are trying to use an AN/JIC to SAE O-ring.
The threads are NPT pipe thread NOT SAE. SAE O-ring fittings require special machining. O-ring fitting ports are made with a port tool specific to that fitting.
AN is a tapered hydraulic fitting. Sounds like you are trying to use an AN/JIC to SAE O-ring.
The threads are NPT pipe thread NOT SAE. SAE O-ring fittings require special machining. O-ring fitting ports are made with a port tool specific to that fitting.
So a dumb question, do they make aluminum fittings that are NPT? Do you remember what size they both are Dustin? Thanks ahead of time and every little piece is a step closer.
So a dumb question, do they make aluminum fittings that are NPT? Do you remember what size they both are Dustin? Thanks ahead of time and every little piece is a step closer.
I think the oil supply port is 1/2" NPT, it may be 3/8" I don't remember. The return should be 1/4 NPT. The return is not normally used unless you want to redirect your draft tube oil drain there.
To plumb the remote filters I use brass or steel fittings with 300 PSI 1/2" hose and standard barb or push lock fittings.
On my first tank (38 gallons) of diesel, I got just over 20 mpg.
Had my first oil change at 750 miles. I used Delo 15w-40 regular/dinosaur oil.
I still have a small oil leak but I haven't tried to hunt it down.
I put on a new 4+ products rear bumper last weekend. It's awesome. I also put on my snorkle.
I had a new fitting for the power steering pump made. It increased the height from the differential to the engine by an inch! So currently there are 3.75 inches between the diff and the now substantially beefier power steering pump intake, and 4 inches between the bump stop and the axle. The bump stop is 2 inches tall and it sounds like it will compress at most/worst case one inch. So I need a 1 or 1.25" extension, which I plan to make today.
I am much happier with the above versus relocating the engine.....much much cheaper time and money wise too!
Next onto the heater pipes at the firewall. Looks like, from another thread, that I will need to take the whole heater out to deal with this. Luckily, I don't need heat right now.
Hey Mitch, that looks really good and I'm glad you got it sorted out with out having to take out the engine and relocating a bunch of stuff. With out going thru your thread, any thing that I should do when putting on my adapter and trans before mocking it in the frame. Seems like you said something about a locator pin? and shaving down some bolts. Also I think you had to grind down your adapter on the inside just a little for flywheel clearance. Any other things I should look for?
Hey Mitch, that looks really good and I'm glad you got it sorted out with out having to take out the engine and relocating a bunch of stuff. With out going thru your thread, any thing that I should do when putting on my adapter and trans before mocking it in the frame. Seems like you said something about a locator pin? and shaving down some bolts. Also I think you had to grind down your adapter on the inside just a little for flywheel clearance. Any other things I should look for?
I will think more today and if I come up with anything more, will post up tonight.
I think you are using Dustins adapter that uses the 2F (says 3F) bellhousing. If thats the case, then be sure to removing the timing pin from the bellhousing so you can use the tech adapter that fits into his engine to bellhousing adapter.
The inside of the bellhousing will need to be ground down a bit to fit the flywheel. Specifically the convex parts at the top....you will see what I mean when you look up into it. You will also need to modify the flywheel cover on the bottom; I am still sorting that one out myself....mostly being lazy. With both of these, the easiest way to check this is by spinning your engine by hand (ok maybe with a cheater bar) using the massive nut at the front of the engine. It should spin mostly freely. If it doesn't move at all, then it's stuck/stopped on something.
There are some bolts near the flywheel that can cause a similar issue. I think they are the ones that mount the adapter to the engine, but I can't remember. The flywheel has a groove in it that their heads move in but the head should not touch the flywheel.
Watch how close you get to your heater lines coming out of the firewall. I think mine are destroyed....not looking forward to that fix.
Thanks! Hopefully it won't need to be, but I'm glad that it will be able to hold up better than the pipe.
Yes, 20 is excellent considering I was getting 9 before. And that 20 was driving at a higher speed than the optimal. I should get another reading this weekend.
Sorry I haven't responded to your pm response. Will get to that soon.
Mitch
Put the new 1" spacers in for the bump stops. Lets hope to never have an issue!
Trying to get a smittybuilt as my console. Apparently I am an idiot and cant seem to make it fit easily like everyone else.
Ryan
I couldnt think of anything else this evening, although I am sure there must be something. Good luck with the fitting! You will be taking it in and out a few times. I would also urge you to put it in and out with the body on as well as there are potential firewall issues.
