bluehawk
Appalachia Cruisers
Thanks Sir
4BD1T into FJ60 Fit Issues
- Thread starter Dazed
- Start date
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Thanks Sir
X2 on EVERYTHING Longbow said in post #239.
I highly recommend moving everything forward also. I've done two of these swaps. The second time I moved the engine forward. It turned out better and I'm happier with it.
If you go hydroboost, and you need a Y fitting for the two return lines to the reservoir, you can purchase Y-strainers on ebay. Just remove the inside screen. Also it's best to run both the return hoses all the way to the reservoir and mount the Y fitting by the reservoir. I originally had the Y fitting on the drivers side and ran the return in a single hose. The added resistance on the one hose return caused the hydroboost to apply light pressure to the brakes all the time.
Hydroboosts can be mounted upside down so the accumulator is on the other side of the turbo. Hydraulic lines don't have to cost a fortune. You can weld or braze cheep steel AN/JIC fittings on any end of the steel lines and make up all your own hoses with reusable fittings and R2 hydraulic hose.
I highly recommend moving everything forward also. I've done two of these swaps. The second time I moved the engine forward. It turned out better and I'm happier with it.
If you go hydroboost, and you need a Y fitting for the two return lines to the reservoir, you can purchase Y-strainers on ebay. Just remove the inside screen. Also it's best to run both the return hoses all the way to the reservoir and mount the Y fitting by the reservoir. I originally had the Y fitting on the drivers side and ran the return in a single hose. The added resistance on the one hose return caused the hydroboost to apply light pressure to the brakes all the time.
Hydroboosts can be mounted upside down so the accumulator is on the other side of the turbo. Hydraulic lines don't have to cost a fortune. You can weld or braze cheep steel AN/JIC fittings on any end of the steel lines and make up all your own hoses with reusable fittings and R2 hydraulic hose.
bluehawk
Appalachia Cruisers
https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=782833&stc=1&d=1374274026
Can anyone advise me what the little hole is on the inside the area where the power steering pump mounts? Its visible in the picture kinda in the middle of the opening in the 11 o'clock position. It also goes to the back side of the mounting flange where the IP bolts up.
That is the threaded hole that is used to bolt the bottom of the injection pump to the case (only one that bolts from the back to the front the rest bolt from the front to the back).
bluehawk
Appalachia Cruisers
Do you see any reason that this hole can not be retapped if it were stripped out? For some reason mine is stripped and I don't want to put the power steering pump back in with out fixing it.
Not that I can see, its just one of the bolts that holds the injection pump to the case. I would not go any larger than needed. Also watch the length. If you go up in size remember to drill the injection pump mounting plate out to match the new bolt size.
bluehawk
Appalachia Cruisers
Thanks sir, this is one of things to do and I'll have the engine back together. Last is the alt and the a/c comp.
Cool, about the same stage as me. Just make sure your replacement bolt does not protrude out of that hole into the PS pump area.
bluehawk
Appalachia Cruisers
Few Questions
Sorry to ask Mitch, but why doesn't the stock clutch slave cylinder work with Dustin's adapter plate? I have a few other questions for you also after I just read you entire thread over again. Do you have any pictures of the pin on the bell housing that needs to be removed where the tach sensor goes? Is this the same pin you referenced as a timing pin? Did you ever find the right bolts for the bell housing that were contacting the flywheel? May just mill the head of the bolts down to clear. I think you stated that you quit measuring at around .002". Is this about how much they need to be taken down to? That's about all that I can think of right now, I'm sure that I will have more after I start mocking up the engine,trans, and frame. Thanks again Mitch for paving the way with using this adapter kit.
Sorry to ask Mitch, but why doesn't the stock clutch slave cylinder work with Dustin's adapter plate? I have a few other questions for you also after I just read you entire thread over again. Do you have any pictures of the pin on the bell housing that needs to be removed where the tach sensor goes? Is this the same pin you referenced as a timing pin? Did you ever find the right bolts for the bell housing that were contacting the flywheel? May just mill the head of the bolts down to clear. I think you stated that you quit measuring at around .002". Is this about how much they need to be taken down to? That's about all that I can think of right now, I'm sure that I will have more after I start mocking up the engine,trans, and frame. Thanks again Mitch for paving the way with using this adapter kit.
bluehawk
Appalachia Cruisers
No worries Mitch, have fun backpacking and be safe. Will check tonight or next week for update. I'm subscribed so I get email notifications when someone updates your post and mine. 
Dazed
Blue's Driver
- Thread starter
- #253
Alright, I am back for a while. I would highly recommend the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne as a backpacking place if you like strenuous stuff! Good fun and amazing views.
I thought that I had something posted on the clutch slave cylinder but turns out it was on another forum. Check it out, it was quite useful info:
http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/showt...r-Clutch-Release-Cylinder&p=222133#post222133
My fix, a 2003 Camry Slave cylinder with a custom adapter works well....or there have been no problems so far is more accurate. The adapter has extra holes in it....lets call them weight saving holes.
I do not have pictures of the pin that needs to be removed but it is the pin that is used to do the timing on the 2F gasoline engine. It is in the little viewing port. I have not gotten Dustin's tach adapter to work perfectly yet, but I havent done anything other than hook it up. I need to try adding a diode or doing the capacitor mod that ASTR did.
Dustin did send me the correct bolts. They were machine screws. The thing that I did wrong was add in lock washers like original had. For Dustin's adapter, you need need to NOT use lock washer and use some blue (semi-permanent) lock-tite.
Let us know how the mock up is going. Be especially careful around the firewall. There isnt much clearance, especially at the heater ports, the accelerator linkage, and around the turbo. Are you going to push it all forward? I havent been able to get mine to the shop to get help with boxing the firewall. It is still super fun to drive around though!!!!
bluehawk
Appalachia Cruisers
Welcome back, hope you had a good time!! I guess what I was looking for was why the stock one doesn't work with the adapter kit. It looks like the adapter plate sticks way out from what I can see in the pictures. Is this the reason the stock one doesn't work? Had to request a new password for 4BT site, forgot mine. I think that I read some where that there is a port on the injection pump that you can run a tach sensor from. Not sure but I think Longbow or Doug720 posted something on this.
I will be trying to move the trans and engine forward about 3-4 inches. I hope this will help out. That's why I kept the front half of the old brown cruiser to check for clearance. I hope to get started on it this weekend. Once I get it in place and check for clearance, I will tack weld the engine mounts, crossmember mounts and then double check. Pull it all apart and rust bullet the frame, paint it with single stage black paint and start putting it all back together.
Dazed
Blue's Driver
- Thread starter
- #255
Ah ok. The stock clutch slave cylinder did not work with adapter kit as it was too long and with the hose coming out the long end, it would not fit. Thinking now, I never tried a right angle bend out of the slave cylinder but I am pretty sure it wouldnt have worked either way.
The adapter plate sticks out so that the starter can mount there.
My injection pump housing had the sensor, but I am not using it. I am using Dustin's sensor. The sensor screws into the housing and is at the 10-11 o'clock position of the center of the IP gear when you are looking at the front of the engine.
You are going to have a sweet rig! All brand new. Be sure to rust proof that sucker like crazy!
The adapter plate sticks out so that the starter can mount there.
My injection pump housing had the sensor, but I am not using it. I am using Dustin's sensor. The sensor screws into the housing and is at the 10-11 o'clock position of the center of the IP gear when you are looking at the front of the engine.
You are going to have a sweet rig! All brand new. Be sure to rust proof that sucker like crazy!
bluehawk
Appalachia Cruisers
Still haven't figured out why Dustin made the kit with the starter on the wrong side opposite the original location. Maybe because there wasn't enough room on the drivers side. The right angle idea off of the cylinder sounds good. Will have to give that some thought and look into it.
So what your saying about the tach sensor, is if you are looking at the front of the motor it is where the power steering pump bolts to the front. Is this where there is already a wire coming out at, at about the 10 o'clock area. Where the little cover is for the timing mark for the IP and power steering pump.
The red body that I went to Florida to get, has some stuff in the quarter panels and all of the other places that the PO put in. I think it is some stuff called Zbart. I am going to sand blast the interior floor area and the underside of the body and then spray monsterliner on it. Thanks Mitch for posting up. It really does help out when someone else does all the hard work first. I just hope that others can learn from my build.
Dazed
Blue's Driver
- Thread starter
- #257
On mine, the starter is on the passenger side as I am using the original Toyota 2F (it says 3F on it) bellhousing and that is where the starter hole is already located. The starter on mine is pushes the rod backwards into the flywheel and is tucked against where the oil filters were. I had to relocate those.
It is above the power steering pump....a picture would help here but I don't have one on my phone. If you are looking where the IP gear fits into the timing case, very near where the timing cover hole is, there may be a screw in sensor there with wires coming out of it. Someone mentioned that it may only be there for 4bd1t engines originally mated to automatic transmissions.
I am happy you're getting something from my build! I sure learned a ton from everyone else along the way. Keep the questions coming if you have them.The red body that I went to Florida to get, has some stuff in the quarter panels and all of the other places that the PO put in. I think it is some stuff called Zbart. I am going to sand blast the interior floor area and the underside of the body and then spray monsterliner on it. Thanks Mitch for posting up. It really does help out when someone else does all the hard work first. I just hope that others can learn from my build.
bluehawk
Appalachia Cruisers
Quick question for you Mitch, or anyone reading your thread. Is there a gasket that goes between the power steering pump and the mating surface of the timing cover? Or, is the only thing keeping it from leaking the o-ring that is on the power steering pump? This is one of the last major things to go back on the motor. Would like to see some stock pictures of the mounting bracket and the a/c compressor and how it all goes back together. Gonna try and get the engine and trans mocked into place this week. Will post up on my thread, stay turned
I have my engine torn down right now, and it looks to me that there was no gasket on there at all, just the O-ring. There is no gasket for it in my kit either, albeit circumstantial.
Jim
Jim
Dazed
Blue's Driver
- Thread starter
- #260
It's only an o-ring.
My alternator and ac compressor mount....
The alternator fits on the bottom and seems stock but the truck didn't hsve AC so I had to make a mount for it. Was simple enough as there were two holes for the pivot bar and I then made a tensioner with some all thread and nuts. Not sure I have any pictures.
My alternator and ac compressor mount....
The alternator fits on the bottom and seems stock but the truck didn't hsve AC so I had to make a mount for it. Was simple enough as there were two holes for the pivot bar and I then made a tensioner with some all thread and nuts. Not sure I have any pictures.
