40’s on a 2nd Gen Sequoia (1 Viewer)

[Nay]

I know this is way out of range on this forum, but @mexellent maybe has given this some thought. My son is going round and round trying to get one tons under his 2004 and it’s never gonna happen. There is a screaming deal locally on a 2008 that‘s already lifted, but the problem is 40’s are sitting in the garage and as we know 37’s are the new 33’s.

I know 37’s happen with the body mount chop and pinch seam grind - he’s done a big firewall chop before (37’s on the first gen), but ugh that’s a big deal for a truck like this. Anybody gotten into this or at least started into what it would take? I probably never should have taken this pic on mine…

 

[Nay]

OK I’m still curious if there is any knowledge, but he works at Discount Tire as a senior store manager and just scored a set of 37” Baja Boss AT that was a customer takeoff moving to 39’s (Bronco Raptor) for $600. May have dodged the ‘cut it up’ bullet .

 

[hoch]

Darn. I was hoping to see a 2nd Gen on 40’s!

 

[joseywales]

37s will be a good stepping stone to 40s. Do it and show us the results here!

 

[mexellent]

If you try hard and believe in yourself you can do anything you want!

That being said, I'd say 37's is pushing the limit of what the 2G Sequoia can handle without too many mods. 37's will rub the front sway bar and shock reservoirs if your shock has them.

 

[Nay]

If you try hard and believe in yourself you can do anything you want!

That being said, I'd say 37's is pushing the limit of what the 2G Sequoia can handle without too many mods. 37's will rub the front sway bar and shock reservoirs if your shock has them.

We’re up to speed on the body mount and pinch seam work for 37’s, easy stuff. The rear doors seem a huge complication for going bigger than 37’s.

This is what the 40’s were going on, and it will be leaving on a salvage yard truck (with almost 400K miles) because a one ton conversion is a bridge too far. Mostly I want this stuff out of my driveway and garage .

I’ve talked him into the 2nd gen given it’s one ton drivetrain strength and I’ve also talked him into starting on 37’s to get a baseline. I have serious doubts he is going to be able to get 40’s out of his head, but also serious doubts that it doesn’t lead to known outcomes. We’ll see how it goes, figure somebody somewhere has done it, these rigs need 40’s.

Here’s the new baby. Suspension was hacked together by Toytec and is way off (bouncy flouncy a shop thought the PO needed a new steering rack and front LCA, we’ll see, I don’t think so). I have to de-chrome mine now, it looks cheap side by side.

 

[turbo8]

Even though it's a 200 series, check out @MTKID build thread. This might give you some more insight on what it will take to get 40's on your Sequoia.

Builds - MTKID's LX on 40's @tiny_the_200

I've owned a 60 series (that never ran), a 94' 80 series (on 315’s), 97' 100 (on 37's) and now this 200... We purchased in Aug. 18’ w/ 175k miles and the first photo I took of it was getting 34” winter tires tossed on a few months later… Happy to answer any questions as they come up…

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Nay]

Even though it's a 200 series, check out @MTKID build thread. This might give you some more insight on what it will take to get 40's on your Sequoia.

Builds - MTKID's LX on 40's @tiny_the_200

I've owned a 60 series (that never ran), a 94' 80 series (on 315’s), 97' 100 (on 37's) and now this 200... We purchased in Aug. 18’ w/ 175k miles and the first photo I took of it was getting 34” winter tires tossed on a few months later… Happy to answer any questions as they come up…

forum.ih8mud.com

Thanks for the link!

 

[Nay]

Whelp…he sold the 40’s but still can’t get bigger than 37’s out of his head. Current focus is on the 39” ko2 since those run a bit small.

I was thinking the rear doors would be the major factor since they form part of the wheel well…but we looked closer and there is quite a bit of material to trim before you’d get to the inner door and its weather stripping.

The 40’s on a 200 project is informative for the firewall tub and body mount relocation. I wouldn’t do it, but I also have an 80 on 38’s so I don’t need to…

 

[Jetboy]

For a Gen 2 - since you're IFS/IRS, I would just relocate the rear suspension back about 2 inches. You don't need to move the differential most likely. Just custom build a-arms to relocate the rear spindle back. Same as all the UTV systems do. And the same in the front. Move the axle forward 2 inches and you'll find a lot of extra room for tire clearance. It's a lot easier to build custom a-arms than it is to relocate a door jamb.

I don't have a sequoia - but looking at the design generally, it appears you may be even easier to fabaricate brackets to move the entire rear IRS sub-frame assembly back and keep the OEM arms. You could probably do a 2" bracket style lift at the same time to provide better geometry. May be easier to do than building the set of a-arms.

 

[Nay]

For a Gen 2 - since you're IFS/IRS, I would just relocate the rear suspension back about 2 inches. You don't need to move the differential most likely. Just custom build a-arms to relocate the rear spindle back. Same as all the UTV systems do. And the same in the front. Move the axle forward 2 inches and you'll find a lot of extra room for tire clearance. It's a lot easier to build custom a-arms than it is to relocate a door jamb.

I don't have a sequoia - but looking at the design generally, it appears you may be even easier to fabaricate brackets to move the entire rear IRS sub-frame assembly back and keep the OEM arms. You could probably do a 2" bracket style lift at the same time to provide better geometry. May be easier to do than building the set of a-arms.

Very interesting point. I really don‘t want to feed this beast any more knowledge since 37’s are realistically plenty big for the places the big body will fit. The IRS idea of moving the entire assembly back would take out what I think is the most complicated aspect.

Moving the front forward would seem to be more complicated as you are changing angles to the steering rack and that can have a lot of implication. Would want to see if people have had success attempting that on similar rigs, but I think usually it’s long arm at that point. He put a long arm setup on the 1st gen Sequoia and steering geometry was a mess pushing the axis forward - terrible bumpsteer and ultimately the bridge too far to address. Maybe 1” forward for a 39” tire would stay within tolerances…

 

[Jetboy]

Very interesting point. I really don‘t want to feed this beast any more knowledge since 37’s are realistically plenty big for the places the big body will fit. The IRS idea of moving the entire assembly back would take out what I think is the most complicated aspect.

Moving the front forward would seem to be more complicated as you are changing angles to the steering rack and that can have a lot of implication. Would want to see if people have had success attempting that on similar rigs, but I think usually it’s long arm at that point. He put a long arm setup on the 1st gen Sequoia and steering geometry was a mess pushing the axis forward - terrible bumpsteer and ultimately the bridge too far to address. Maybe 1” forward for a 39” tire wouldn’t stay within tolerances…

I can't say with any confidence on this model. But the forward A-arm relocate is semi-common on aftermarket setups for the 4Runner/Tacomas. That's the secret sauce for larger tires without front firewall work. You could probably get an idea of all the clearance issues once you can get a good look at the suspension without tire on there and ideally on a lift or jack stands with the coilover removed so you an cycle it and see what it looks like. I think the key to making it work up front is keeping the movement reasonable and making sure that there isn't interference between the front axle shaft and the coilover. They're pretty close. In the rear on a sequoia I think you'd have to move the upper coil bucket back to go with the relocated lower arm to clear the axle shaft. Otherwise the rear is a lot simpler than the front.

I think you should also be able to get away with a simple spacer for the driveline if you move the entire assembly back. I would think just a machined aluminum block would work with long hardware to extend the driveline to work. The front relocates I know of leave the front diff and steering rack in the same place, so it's just a-arms and the rest stays put. One version keeps the OEM a-arms but moves the mounting tabs forward about 2 inches. That's another possible option. If I were doing that as a one-off I'd be tempted to find a bracket lift kit cheap and use that as a starting point because it has all the right mounting points designed into it and might save a lot of fabrication. You can sometimes find them for a Tundra dirt cheap as take-off sets.

Just a few thoughts I've had about doing the same thing myself on a 4Runner.

I might be a little concerned going to 40's will be too much for the diffs. I'm sure they're pretty strong, but a big heavy SUV with decent power on 40's is a lot to ask. I don't know enough about the IRS to know if that's a bit deal or not.

 

[Nay]

I can't say with any confidence on this model. But the forward A-arm relocate is semi-common on aftermarket setups for the 4Runner/Tacomas. That's the secret sauce for larger tires without front firewall work. You could probably get an idea of all the clearance issues once you can get a good look at the suspension without tire on there and ideally on a lift or jack stands with the coilover removed so you an cycle it and see what it looks like. I think the key to making it work up front is keeping the movement reasonable and making sure that there isn't interference between the front axle shaft and the coilover. They're pretty close. In the rear on a sequoia I think you'd have to move the upper coil bucket back to go with the relocated lower arm to clear the axle shaft. Otherwise the rear is a lot simpler than the front.

I think you should also be able to get away with a simple spacer for the driveline if you move the entire assembly back. I would think just a machined aluminum block would work with long hardware to extend the driveline to work. The front relocates I know of leave the front diff and steering rack in the same place, so it's just a-arms and the rest stays put. One version keeps the OEM a-arms but moves the mounting tabs forward about 2 inches. That's another possible option. If I were doing that as a one-off I'd be tempted to find a bracket lift kit cheap and use that as a starting point because it has all the right mounting points designed into it and might save a lot of fabrication. You can sometimes find them for a Tundra dirt cheap as take-off sets.

Just a few thoughts I've had about doing the same thing myself on a 4Runner.

I might be a little concerned going to 40's will be too much for the diffs. I'm sure they're pretty strong, but a big heavy SUV with decent power on 40's is a lot to ask. I don't know enough about the IRS to know if that's a bit deal or not.

That’s great info, we’ve done a major firewall tub before but you (or at least I) hate to do that on a 2nd gen. If there is a kit to move the Tundra front forward then it would just be getting the rear back an inch for 39’s. A refresh of arm bushings wouldn’t be the worst thing at 240K miles, either.

 

[bjowett]

Any progress here? I’m considering a future project with Sequoia IRS… love to see what other folks come up with.

 

[Diddly]

Any progress here? I’m considering a future project with Sequoia IRS… love to see what other folks come up with.

Weren’t you the guy who was swapping Sequoia IRS under a Tundra a few years ago?

 

[Diddly]

If someone was going to fab different rear control arms to move the wheel back, you might as well add a few inches in total width / create the first ever long travel rear. The rear wheel travel is much shorter then the front and would benefit from long travel more than the front.

It looks like this guy trimmed an inch or more out of the rear wheel well. There’s at least an inch to gain from the rear door overlap lip without getting into the body tub. But you’ll have to weld the thin door panel.

There’s an inch or more whee well opening that could be gained by cutting at the top. But the door is a limiting factor. There seems to be an inch or more of lip on the door / wheel well.

 

[bjowett]

Yes. That project was sold off before completion… always regretted the direction it went, would like to build another.