4 wheel steering

[usmcruiser]

I was thinking of putting four wheel steering on the cruiser since I was doing a frame up with many mods. I have been looking on line for some info on the area but I have come up empty handed. I was wondering if anybody here had done this or knew some details on it. Also how hard is it to set up a fully hydrolic system?

 

[woody]

IMO, the process isn't terrible, cruiserrg will pipe up since his new ride will have it...

price is high tho, quite high....in part cause of the hydraulics and valving, and in part since upgrading to a D60 is a near-must....the Cruiser axles just can't take that abuse, and IMO even all the available upgrades for axles and such won't hold up...

 

[usmcruiser]

up grading to D60s was in the works any ways. I currently have a D60HD sitting in the garage I got for $25 at Pull and Save. So if I dont use it no skin off my back. I also am planing on a RamJet 350, SM465, NP205 ect. So I am slowly trying to sell all the stuff of my Cruiser to fund this little project. HA, "little".

 

[Medusa]

As Woody notes the conversion is expensive. Face it.. front D60's or Rockwells are not cheap and when you have to get two of them for rear steer, it adds up fast. I think rear steer has some advantages for competition, but fewer advantages for us noncompetitive types. Having said that I really do like the big Proffit Cruisers with their steering setups.

 

[cruiserrg]

As woody stated I am working on queer steer on my rig. There is a ton of added expenses to do this and also many ways to accomplish it from mild to wild. I will try to detail the options out and considerations.

First rear axles:
You will need a substantially stronger than stock axle. As noted above using a front Dana60, Rockwell, or Unimog axle, or a one off custom axles are in order.
Dana60: I wouldn't run without upgrading to 35 spline outters, alloy axles, and CTM ujoints. Strength is a must in rear axles and a steer axle are inherently weak due to the ujoints.
Rockwells: Cheap, but very heavy. Running a ujoint style would be preferred.
Unimogs: Expensive. Bonus is double ujionts for more steering angle with less fatigue on the joints.
Other options would be on off custom axles.

Next is controls:
There are several ways to control the rear axle.
Hydraulic manual valve: Cheap and simple would be to get a manual lever valve that is hydraulic. Will only allow manual control of the rear steering.
Electric Joystick controlling hydraulic solenoids: More expensive but routing into cab is easier. Benefits include flexibility of self centering and changeable steering options (circle and crab)

Rams:
1 Double acting single ended ram: Cheaper than double. Will steer differently from side to side due to fluid needed on each side being different.
1 Double acting double ended ram: More Expensive. Allows for equal movement from side to side. shorter tie rods needed
2 Double acting single ended rams: More Expensive. Will take care of difference from side to side, but more weight and lines needed.

Fluid Power to rear:
PS pump: Cheaper and easily replaced when broken and simplicity of mounting. Engine driven which won't allow steering of rear when engine off.
12volt Hydropack: Expensive, bulkier. Allows for steering of rear when engine is off.

Plumbing:
There are several methods to plumb the rear steering in.
Independent: Control of rear that is independent of front using separate pump (hydropack)
T-ing off std orbital valve, priority should be a consideration on what will see fluid first.
Power beyond orbital valve: has built in separate port to feed rear off orbital valve and gives priority to the front.

These are just a few things to consider about rear steering. There are probably a lot more, and research on the net and with knowledgeable vendors is the key. I suggest Sean at Performance Off Road Systems he is great to work with.

My set-up will be a std orbital valve, powered by a modified GM p-pump for more volume and flow. The rear will be feed first by the orbital valve to a manifold assembly to allow for std rear steer, circle steer, or crab steer driven off the orbital valve. It will have a manual override by joystick, and if budget holds out push button self centering.

 

[wngrog]

Hell I have a hard enough time driving one steering axle, I can't imagine having to screw with two

 

[woody]

Hell I have a hard enough time driving one steering axle, I can't imagine having to screw with two

may need that quote in the future....

I followed a guy with rear steer once...granted he was new with it, but it took him over 3x as long to navigate obstacles as it too me. Medusa is right, competition has advantages, otherwise it's nothing more than an expensive toy and one more maintenance and breakage item to deal with on the trail....

 

[cruiserrg]

I agree that standard queer steer is difficult to navigate on obstacles without much experience. I do plan to have mine steer off the steering wheel and work along with the front in most situations. This will allow more tight turning during trailriding and obstacles. It will have an override by joystick if adjustments are needed, and of course the ability to turn if off for only front steer.

It will be much like my old quadrasteer pickup just with manual override. Should turn through the treelined trails nicely.

Guess time will tell once I have this darn rig done.