4-runner\eldorado\what master?

[CruisinFJ60]

i used a T100 master cylinder on my truck it has a 1" bore as well and is a direct bolt up. has the same style cap as the lc one (wires and then the plug) the only diference is the plug was slightly dif. so i cut the plug off it came with then cut the plug and some wire from my old cap and put em together and BAM! works great light and all.

to test it just connect the 2 wires with the res. full and cap on and if the brake light is on switch em. it should then go off easy as pie.

 

[euclid]

Got a pigtail on the way from Cruiserparts.net.

Bled the brakes real good again, the pedal still isn't quite right. It's great on the 2nd push, but a tiny bit soft on the first. I'm leaving tomorrow am for my trip anyway. Maybe I still have some air. I'll bleed them again tomorrow night.

 

[lonelydriver]

Hey Euclid,

I'll reply here instead of your pm so maybe others can reference this in the future, but I did end up going to a pick n pull and got the plug that fit the new mastercylinder I got and just spliced it into the existing wires and works perfect. looks like you're already on the right track! good luck!

 

[lonelydriver]

I also still have the problem of softness in the first brake press and it hardens up on the second.... I've bled it so many times i'm sick of it but still no better. Let me know if you get it rock solid!

 

[euclid]

Hey Euclid,

I'll reply here instead of your pm so maybe others can reference this in the future, but I did end up going to a pick n pull and got the plug that fit the new mastercylinder I got and just spliced it into the existing wires and works perfect. looks like you're already on the right track! good luck!

Cool, that's what I plan to do.

I also still have the problem of softness in the first brake press and it hardens up on the second.... I've bled it so many times i'm sick of it but still no better. Let me know if you get it rock solid!

Yeah, I figured I was just going to have to live with it. The difference isn't huge, but it's there. I'm confident I bleed it completely. I wonder if an inline proportioning valve would solve this? Maybe some residual pressure on there?

 

[Mace]

a 2 lb residual valve might just do the trick.. I have one in my system (1 ton all around) and it seems to stop on a dime..

 

[euclid]

a 2 lb residual valve might just do the trick.. I have one in my system (1 ton all around) and it seems to stop on a dime..

I posted about a residual valve like I knew what the hell one was. I just googled to catch up.

Does it install at the master? Between the master, and the hard lines? If so, I'm thinking I may try one for just the rears.

BTW, my new eldo calipers, with Sixty's e-brake bracket setup and some tweaking: Holds my truck. If I pump the pedal then jank on the ebrake it will hold the truck to 1200 rpm in 4 low.

 

[Mace]

Cool..


it goes inline in the rear circuit..

mine is right next to the master with about 3" of hard line between it and the master.

 

[euclid]

Cool..

it goes inline in the rear circuit..

mine is right next to the master with about 3" of hard line between it and the master.

Now I gotta figure out what size the fittings are so I can connect the FJ80 master to the stock 62 hard line. The 2 lb valves are 1/8 in. NPT female on both ends.

Downey's sure looks complicated:

 

[Mace]

I just used one from summit.
They are cheap enough..
Do you have a brake flare tool? I installed mine by simply cutting the stock hard line, flaring both ends and inserting it. It was very simple..
The Downey one looks like no flaring is needed (compression fittings). Which is a perfectly fine way to go as well.

 

[euclid]

I just used one from summit.
They are cheap enough..
Do you have a brake flare tool? I installed mine by simply cutting the stock hard line, flaring both ends and inserting it. It was very simple..
The Downey one looks like no flaring is needed (compression fittings). Which is a perfectly fine way to go as well.

Nope, no flare tool but I could get one. Then you just used a 1/8 in. NPT male on both sides of the valve. Got it.

I wonder if this is going to screw with my stock LSPV. Now that I think of it, I haven't tried adjusting the LSPV since the 4runner calipers were on. Might be able to get a firmer pedal that way.

 

[Mace]

No clue, I don't have an LVSP

 

[euclid]

No clue, I don't have an LVSP

Me either. Dood, you type worse than me.

 

[Mace]

lol

Sorry, the LVSP (Las Vegas Springs Preserve) is something that I am used to typing.. At least that is my excuse

 

[euclid]

Mace,

Acording to downey here

"Although there is some weird 9mm stuff on older Landcruisers, all 1970+ Landcruisers, Pickups, and 4 Runners have 10mm brake line fittings. These high pressure hydraulic Swagelock fittings are 10mm -1.0..."

So, it looks to me like I could use these:

one on either side of the residual valve and just screw it inline on my factory line on the rear brake output line.

I'm concerned about cutting the hard line and flaring it because of reversibility if the residual valve doesn't work.

thoughts?

 

[Mace]

To add a residual valve directly to your master you would need a 10mm flare/1/8" pipe male/male union (male into the master and male into the residual valve, then you would need a 10mm flare/1/8" pipe female/male to go from the residual valve to the stock line.

Master - male/male adapter - residual valve - male/female adapter - Stock line

 

[euclid]

To add a residual valve directly to your master you would need a 10mm flare/1/8" pipe male/male union (male into the master and male into the residual valve, then you would need a 10mm flare/1/8" pipe female/male to go from the residual valve to the stock line.

Master - male/male adapter - residual valve - male/female adapter - Stock line

I always seem to take the long way around. Looks like those 2 fittings are going to be tough to come by. I just spent 1.5 hrs looking, and no luck. I do have one guy that is supposed to email me back, but I'm not hopeful. I'm going to finish the shackle project then come back to this one. The brakes work fine for now. Thanks mace.

 

[Mad Chemist]

I've got the same set up on my 40, 4runner discs up front, monte carlo in the back. I've currently got a 4runner MC on there as well, ~'94, which had disc fronts and drum rears. Is this any better/worse than the MC that Marlin is selling? It's not clear to me whether Marlin's, or the fj80 MC is set up for 4WDB, versus front disk and rear drum.

 

[VETTE60]

the 80 master cyl is for a 4wdb set up, so it is a better match

 

[Mad Chemist]

Isn't an fj80 front disc, rear drum? Not sure I understand why the 80 MC would be different than, say, a 90's 4Runner.