4 runner clutch question

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A

addictedtosleep

10 Year 15 Year
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Feb 6, 2009
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a quick question,i bought a 86 4 runner with a manuel tranny and it seem's to me like the clutch is bad,but ive been told it could be a bad clutch cylindre? by the way while running i put it in any gear and its like im in nutural same thing if i put it in gear before starting it,like in nutural !....anyway if anyone can help me out ide like to be sure before tearing it apart,,thanks everyone :D
 
It sounds like a REALLY BAD clutch to me. If it were your wheel cyl, you would be grinding gears if the clutch was good. HONESTLY, I have NEVER heard or seen a clutch go out THAT BAD....If it is not the clutch (you should be able to hear a bad clutch) It might be your input shaft, or stripped splines. Go ahead and pull the tranny out.. It isn't that difficult. and see what is going on.

I am going off the info you wrote in your post.
 
thanks Pilot for the quick responce...well the guy i bought it from told me the clutch wasnt slipp'n he said it just let go! usually if the clutch goes bad you would think it should of slipped atleast a lil or something before it went ?so if its the input shaft, or stripped splines wouldnt it go ahead (front wheel drive)? either way is it an easy fix or will i need to change the tranny? thanks again ;) sorry about the questions i dont know 2 much about 4x4's lol
 
No it would not go into front wheel drive, because it would have to go though the transmission towards the transfer case, then from the transfer case to the front drive shaft, In other words, you need to be receiving power from the transmission ie: through the clutch to transfer the power from the engine. If he said the clutch "let Go" then I would say there is an issue with the Disc, or the pressure plate or any of the above.. You problem sounds like it is in the Bellousing (where the flywheel, and clutch etc.etc. are located. VERY rare to strip splines on the input shaft, or to break an input shaft. I think you proplem is a need for a full clutch job, which is a great thing to learn to do if you are getting into the Wrenching world..and there is a TON of info on doing a clutch job on a 22Re with the W-56 trans. DOnt let it scare you. after you do the clutch you will be PROUD. PLus you have all of us here to give you answers and etc.etc. or you can pay a shop to do it, just make sure you put a high quality clutch in the truck (not the el'cheapo ones)
 
OH and if you did strip or break a shaft (it rare) then yes it is a bad thing, and would be easier to buy a used transmission. I have a good used W-56 in my garage if you have trans damage.
 
Howdy! Since I agree with Pilot that clutches usually do not die in an instant, and they usually make some noise if the pressure plate did die, are you 100% positive that the transfer case is not in Neutral? John
 
thanks guys,,the transfer case isnt in neutral unless its stuck in neutral somehow!
and when i put it in 1st i dont even hear a noise? not a sound, its like its in neutral,,so im confused :D lol
 
I have seen a clutch dramatically fail once. I helped a friend do a clutch job in his '92 4Runner, and the truck would hardly move, but it was fine the day before. When we got it apart, we found that all the rivets on one side of the clutch disc had let go, so the slice of clutch pad was just spinning, nothing for it to grab on to. It was really weird, never seen one do that before. It was a Toyota/AISIN clutch too.

No matter what the problem is, sounds like the tranny has to come out to me.
 
addictedtosleep said:
thanks guys,,the transfer case isnt in neutral unless its stuck in neutral somehow!
and when i put it in 1st i dont even hear a noise? not a sound, its like its in neutral,,so im confused :D lol
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Howdy! Could be a transmission shifter linkage/fork issue, always in neutral. But, it does sound like a bad clutch. With engine running, and not pushing on the clutch pedal, can you pull it into reverse? Does it grind or resist going into reverse? That's the only gear without a syncro. If the clutch is working at all and making the input shaft spin, it should not go into reverse very well. If the input shaft is turning, then the problem is down stream from there. Like the output on the tranny or something in the transfer. John
 
inkpot said:
Howdy! Could be a transmission shifter linkage/fork issue, always in neutral. But, it does sound like a bad clutch. With engine running, and not pushing on the clutch pedal, can you pull it into reverse? Does it grind or resist going into reverse? That's the only gear without a syncro. If the clutch is working at all and making the input shaft spin, it should not go into reverse very well. If the input shaft is turning, then the problem is down stream from there. Like the output on the tranny or something in the transfer. John
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thanks again pilot,inkpot n KLF ur input is greatly appreciated
and to answer ur question when running i can easily put it in reverse without pushing on the clutch,no grinding no resistance,:hhmm: so i think ill start pulling out the tranny tomorrow,but is there a how to on here just incase i have any questions,,thanks again everybody:)
 
I would start by pulling the transfer case shifter and checking where the shift rods are.... If it is in 2wd Hi (Where it should be most of the time...) the left rod should be forward and the right rod to the rear, if it's in neutral like it kind of sounds.... then the left rod will be to the rear some, and the right rod to the front.

But if the t-case shifts like it should this is probably not the problem, and then my guess is that the throwout bearing has jammed on the trans input shaft sleeve, with the clutch in the disengaged position... :cheers:

Welcome to Mud!!!!! :flipoff2: Glad to have you!
 
That is some good info there. start with the transfer case (remove it) and then see if the output shaft is spinning when you start the vehicle. then keep working back from there. GOOD INSIGHT FROM THE OTHERS> I DIDNT THINK ABOUTTHE OTHER SUGG> Funny thing is, if one of us were there at the house, most of us would find the issue within' 5 minutes of crawling under your rig:):):):)
 
update,,i just pulled back the rubber where the fork is and i have pieces of clutch fallen out,so my guess is that it exploded,,lol but ill be sure when the transmission's out and can anyone tell me if a clutch out of a 22r fits in my truck? cause i know a guy that would give it to me,thanks
 
addictedtosleep said:
update,,i just pulled back the rubber where the fork is and i have pieces of clutch fallen out,so my guess is that it exploded,,lol but ill be sure when the transmission's out and can anyone tell me if a clutch out of a 22r fits in my truck? cause i know a guy that would give it to me,thanks
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May fit but it won't take the power. Either get Toyota OEM or go with one of Martin Crawler's clutches. Standard after market clutches are 60,000 to 100,000 mile clutches while OEM will easily do 300,000+. Order it from cruiserdan (Dan) at
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. When your in there replace all the bearings and also have the flywheel resurfaced or buy a new one.

When I pulled mine I left the cross brace and transfer case on. Made maneuvering much easier. You will want to increase the room under the truck by a good foot. A good set of tall jack stands or ramps. I have 4 tall ramps I made out of layered 2xX lumber pieces. Each one is in two parts. A stand portion that the tire rests on and a ramp that attaches to it. Both are made out of layered 2xX lumber where the layers are parallel to the ground. The stand portion has a 9.5"W x 18" long top with 2x2 cross blocks at each end. It's base is 18" wide and 24" long. The ramps are 9.5" wide and 4' long. Height wise they just barely fit under the sides of my truck.

Long extensions and a swivel socket are real helpful for removing the top two bolts holding the bell housing to the engine. I had over 4' of extensions and that made turning those two bolts easy. It allowed me enough swing room for the ratchet. When you pull the starter it also helps to have the long extensions. It is possible to thread one all the way back from the front valence under the bumper. That allows you to have swing room to undo the top nut.

To support the rear of the engine I used a 2x4 and a threaded rod with some nuts and washers. I bent the threaded rod into a hook and hooked the rear lifting point on the engine. Then I ran the threaded rod through a hole in the 2x4 which spanned from the front to back of the engine compartment. The nuts and washers allowed height adjustment. This allowed me to raise and lower the rear of the engine in a controlled manner. When removing and installing the top transmission bolts it was easiest to have the back of engine lowered as much as possible. I actually let it rest against the firewall. That allowed enough space for my hand to fit in there to start the bolts.

Disconnect the front ends of the drive shafts only. The front one will remain attached to the transfer case and the rear one will remain attached to the rear differential.
 
Generally agree with Bogo, except that I never bother with supporting the back of the engine. Let it droop! It won't hurt anything, and it makes it sooo much easier to get to those top 2 bolts. I've done this in minitrucks and Cruisers and it really helps.

Long extensions and swivel sockets with a decent impact gun are a huge help.

Don't forget to disconnect the battery first!

Unclip the shifters from the top of the tranny & transfer, you don't need to unbolt those flanges.
 
addictedtosleep said:
update,,i just pulled back the rubber where the fork is and i have pieces of clutch fallen out,so my guess is that it exploded,,lol but ill be sure when the transmission's out and can anyone tell me if a clutch out of a 22r fits in my truck? cause i know a guy that would give it to me,thanks
Click to expand...

The only 22R-based clutch that is truly different and won't work is the one for the 22RTE, the turbo engine. If this was for a pickup, then ya I'd say sure it would work fine. But, I do know that the 4Runner clutches are slightly different, maybe stronger springs in the pressure plate or something. Must be due to the additional weight.

I suppose if money was really tight, you could put it in, see if it lasts. If it doesn't, then swap it again.
 
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