You most likely have everything you need. You can almost tear down and rebuild a 100 with a 12, 14 and 17mm socket. Artwerks got himself parked in a nice level spot after the break, which helped. He didn't have sliders or bumpers, so a HiLift wasn't helpful. I didn't see any pictures of where he parked prior to getting up there, so I thought of things we "might" need, and brought them. RobRed posted a link to his website where he has a nice set of instructions, print them out. No need to matchmark the driveshaft though, but I suppose you could.
In any case, here's what I packed:
Sockets with extensions. I usually carry 3/8" drive and 10-21mm sockets deep and shallow
Wrenches (14mm is really all you'll need for the driveshaft)
A few flat head screwdrivers of different sizes
Snap ring pliers. Not the super fancies, and not the removable tip ones. I prefer these with the flat angled tips http://www.marlincrawler.com/hardware-tools/tools/snap-ring-pliers
Brass hammer for whacking the hub/studs to pop the cone washers (Dan has an old Snap-On one with a wooden handle that's been passed down for 2 generations) I'm determined to find one now that I've used his. For the $ you spend, it will last 3 lifetimes. You've heard it before, but remove the nuts and flat washers, then replace the nuts until they're just past flush with the ends of the studs and hit either the hub or the stud to pop the cone washers loose. Once you see them move even a little, a pair of channel locks can grab them and work them the rest of the way out.
Jack stands (nice to have if you can, in the field you'll have to improvise and be safe)
Ducktape, plastic bag, old water bottle to cover the spindle. Although, there isn't much you can do, just tape up the splines and end, replace the plastic beauty cover and go.
A flat piece 3/4" ply or MDF for under the jack (I didn't think we'd need it, but because of the spacers, we had to raise the truck and remove the wheels) glad I tossed it in.
Heavy Duty ziplocks labeled "left and right" or "driver and passenger" for flange, c-clip, cone washers and nuts
A tarp for laying in the dirt
PB Blaster, brake cleaner, rags/soap for cleaning up.
If you're wheeling, this stuff is already in your truck minus the wood and jackstands. (I don't wheel, YMMV)
This isn't a huge job and is under an hour of work if you don't need to remove the wheels. A few more tips, (if you have to raise the vehicle) once you finish the first side, the wheel will spin free on the other side. So, when you try and remove the spacers (if you have them) or remove the flange nuts, the hub will want to spin on you. Have someone else put their foot on the brake to stop it from rotating and you can loosen them up. (Don't have them jump up in the truck unless it's safely and securely on stands, otherwise the one leg in approach is the safest way.) If your front wheels are planted on the ground, this won't be an issue.
Also, if you can't reach all the bolts/nuts on tcase side, you can move the vehicle 4 or 5 inches to get the driveshaft to rotate enough to access the other nuts/bolts.
In any case, here's what I packed:
Sockets with extensions. I usually carry 3/8" drive and 10-21mm sockets deep and shallow
Wrenches (14mm is really all you'll need for the driveshaft)
A few flat head screwdrivers of different sizes
Snap ring pliers. Not the super fancies, and not the removable tip ones. I prefer these with the flat angled tips http://www.marlincrawler.com/hardware-tools/tools/snap-ring-pliers
Brass hammer for whacking the hub/studs to pop the cone washers (Dan has an old Snap-On one with a wooden handle that's been passed down for 2 generations) I'm determined to find one now that I've used his. For the $ you spend, it will last 3 lifetimes. You've heard it before, but remove the nuts and flat washers, then replace the nuts until they're just past flush with the ends of the studs and hit either the hub or the stud to pop the cone washers loose. Once you see them move even a little, a pair of channel locks can grab them and work them the rest of the way out.
Jack stands (nice to have if you can, in the field you'll have to improvise and be safe)
Ducktape, plastic bag, old water bottle to cover the spindle. Although, there isn't much you can do, just tape up the splines and end, replace the plastic beauty cover and go.
A flat piece 3/4" ply or MDF for under the jack (I didn't think we'd need it, but because of the spacers, we had to raise the truck and remove the wheels) glad I tossed it in.
Heavy Duty ziplocks labeled "left and right" or "driver and passenger" for flange, c-clip, cone washers and nuts
A tarp for laying in the dirt
PB Blaster, brake cleaner, rags/soap for cleaning up.
If you're wheeling, this stuff is already in your truck minus the wood and jackstands. (I don't wheel, YMMV)
This isn't a huge job and is under an hour of work if you don't need to remove the wheels. A few more tips, (if you have to raise the vehicle) once you finish the first side, the wheel will spin free on the other side. So, when you try and remove the spacers (if you have them) or remove the flange nuts, the hub will want to spin on you. Have someone else put their foot on the brake to stop it from rotating and you can loosen them up. (Don't have them jump up in the truck unless it's safely and securely on stands, otherwise the one leg in approach is the safest way.) If your front wheels are planted on the ground, this won't be an issue.
Also, if you can't reach all the bolts/nuts on tcase side, you can move the vehicle 4 or 5 inches to get the driveshaft to rotate enough to access the other nuts/bolts.
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