-I would recommend a Tri-4link or 3link wishbone, for the rear. If planning front I would also recommend unless physically impossible due to driveline configuration.
-Place the converging Links on top of the axle with upper tri or wishbone, OR at the lower crossmember for lower links. This will keep your roll center fairly high. You can do both for a double Tri-links.
-Keep the tri links angled as much as the chassis you are building will allow or axle. It hard to go with a hard fast number here because widths of chassis and axles vary so much. Example: my 48" on center widthed chassis isn't going to allow for as much as a regular sized frame.
-Keep the remaining links wide on the axle attachment point. This will allow for more stability. Here again you have to account for the tire throughout their travel and if they steer. Just like leaf spring, you don't want the tires rubbing a lot on the links, so would be OK, but I like none.
-Vertical separation is important to take the torque rotation from the axle under power, and even more important with portal axles. Place the lower link attachment points at the axle so the brackets are not lower than the axle tube. You can go lower but will take away clearance and hang up on stuff. Then place the upper axle mounting position fairly high, again you chassis setup will dictate this a lot (especially in front under the engine). See how much compression you want, what the links will hit and make slightly lower. Once under the rig it will be clear how much, and too much isn't necessarily a good thing.
-After all of the above, you should have the axle mounting placed, or a good idea where they will go, then focus on the chassis. The lowers should be placed in the chassis to be tucked away so you have good clearance and don't get hung up. This would be either frame mounted or cross member mounted. If you have to build lower because of chassis clearance issues build a ramped mount.
-The last set of links to place are the chassis upper, all others you should have a good idea where they go from the above text. Here is where I would build in some adjustment to the suspension. All other points can be solid mount with no adjustment because they take into account other thing for best placement. Make a attachment point with several (3 min) holes that are on the same arc as the link at ride height. You will also see that the body or chassis will dictate the location of this bracket and will probably allow for some positions that have less link separation that at the axle and maybe one parallel. These adjustment holes will allow for some tuning of your anti-squat and IC. They will allow for smaller adjustments than if the lower chassis mount was adjustable.
-Lastly build strong brackets, especially at the chassis and convergence of the tri link or wishbone.
That will give you a good start. This is by no means the be all end oll of building a link suspension I probably left out a ton of stuff. Look at a lot of different suspensions and you will get a good idea. You really have to see what will fit with your chassis and axle, and go from there. Unless your are building a full on tube chassis from the ground up, your configuration will dictate a lot of how the links will end up. This is even the case when building custom chassis, its just easier to move stuff when building from scratch.
Take a look at my site and you can see mu link setup and my adjustment brakets. Oh and Good luck.
Seems to work OK from our perspective.
By all means if you are deisgning and building a suspension for the first time, you should get all the information available to you. In my opinion, first-hand experience and being around suspension systems shoud count for more than a spreadsheet based on design principles created for flat-track race cars. I have seen rigs with "good numbers" that perform badly and I have seen a lot of suspensions work very well with what many consider to be too much antisquat. So franlky, I don't pay any attention to the numbers, and suggest that others not get hung up on them either.
. Have you had any problems with the structural integrity of the frame or anything? Which springs are you running? Can't wait for the write-up on it. A J@*P buddy of mine is building a similar 4 link for his CJ7 from a kit that he is buying for $1500.00 
. I think he's getting hosed, but at least he has a kit to work from.
