4 link kits (1 Viewer)

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Define affordable?
 
Mace I wheel with al and the north fl cruisers so now you know what affordable is.

As close to free as I can get.

An un welded kit is good for me I just need the brackets and destructions .

you have seen my build up it is fj40 tear down and build up I believe you have posted there.
 
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Mike M. got his from Profitt's (linked above I believe). Looks and works well - except that I think he wants to dump the coils and go air shocks.

I've contemplated the Profitt's kit, but I want upgrades to Johnny joints and will be running either air shocks or coil overs - have not seriously looked into it due to needing to find the money first (spent it on the t-case ;).

You can also order the DOM tubing and all the threaded inserts, heims or Johnny joints, brackets and what not from Poly P. I think the heaviest 1.5" DOM they offer is .250 wall - and I know of someone who built his with .500 wall - geez! That would be a heavey arse box?

Best of luck - if you find it cheaper than either of those two - lemme know might get me motivated.
 
I would part it together myself.

Kits are nice but they are based on generalities. A canned kit is a compromise. IMHO, read up on link suspensions, learn what you need it to do. then choose what you can do with the limitations that your truck has..

Proffit Does make nice stuff tho!!
 
Lookin at the link kit pics, I assume they'd tell you to locate a panhard bar since I don't see the mat'l. or the frame bracket. :idea: Or maybe they figure a 3 link front :confused: Also, I wouldn't locate the links outboard the frame on the rear as they show. There's enough room for all 4 triangulated links inside the frame. You can save a little ca$h by running coil springs up front, but it's tight & *may require wheel spacers. Also noticed Profitts doesn't advise using their 4 link front kit for the street. Seems to me all you gotta do is add a sway bar or change out springs for a stiffer rate.
 
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Lookin at the link kit pics, I assume they'd tell you to locate a panhard bar since I don't see the mat'l. or the frame bracket. :idea: Or maybe they figure a 3 link front :confused: Also, I wouldn't locate the links outboard the frame on the rear as they show. There's enough room for all 4 triangulated links inside the frame. You can save a little ca$h by running coil springs up front, but it's tight & *may require wheel spacers. Also noticed Profitts doesn't advise using their 4 link front kit for the street. Seems to me all you gotta do is add a sway bar or change out springs for a stiffer rate.

I'm going to assume we're only talking about rear 4-link kits.

What's wrong with outboarding the two lower links?

Have been told that a triangulated 4-link does not need a panhard bar - the Johnnie's/or/Heim's/or/bushings are stout enough to keep side to side play in check - asked R.K. something along those lines recently and he says his works fine, I know of a few others that I've personally seen that work fine as well - educate me - seriously - I'm definitely looking into this :hillbilly:.
 
triangulated 4 link does not need a panhard as long as the angles links have enough of an angle to restrain the axle.

If they are not angled enough, you run into major problems..
 
Have been told that a triangulated 4-link does not need a panhard bar - the Johnnie's/or/Heim's/or/bushings are stout enough to keep side to side play

I thought it depends on how much triangulated are the links .. more if you plan use it on road with a heavy body ( more body roll )
 
Body roll is more an issue of suspension design, not the angularity of the links..
 
What's wrong with outboarding the two lower links?

In the configuration shown w/ the blue coiled rig, they are too closely mounted to the frame, which limits uptravel. That's why I suggested mounting all 4 inside the frame - that's what I did. If you're running full width, outboarding the lowers *would be okay since you have more room to work w/the arc of travel.

Have been told that a triangulated 4-link does not need a panhard bar

I was referring to the FRONT 3 or 4 link kit. No info is given about a panhard location on Profitt's site. :D
 
LC_Hamma - Let me know if you have any more pics than the ones on your link for the 40. Looks nice - but woudn't mind seeing a few more of the inboarded hangers and the angles. I like the bends in the seat mounts integrated into the roll cage - looks good.

So far I'm sticking with a 40 axle - so I can see your point somewhat, but need to look at a friends 40 that he put the Profitt kit on (of course he's cutting out his 40 axle and putting in a 60 axle). I do know that his spring buckets were too close and at full compression the tires barely touched - but the outboarded links weren't hurting his articulation.
 
my lower links mount below the frame, and are splayed wider on the axle
the upper links mount inside the frame rails and to the center of the axle housing

almost non-existant rear steer....great balance....minimal roll...all are 39" eye to eye

lowers ARE .500 wall, and bent...roll a few times and land on them....
 
my lower links mount below the frame, and are splayed wider on the axle
the upper links mount inside the frame rails and to the center of the axle housing

almost non-existant rear steer....great balance....minimal roll...all are 39" eye to eye

lowers ARE .500 wall, and bent...roll a few times and land on them....

Steel ball in a rubber room amigo ;)
 

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