4.7 supercharger, thoughts? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Tywrap
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
For sure do the Nomad HD valve body and I would also do their upgrades in the bell housing as well. They have a heavy duty torque converter too.
ALSO, either add a WDH, get a drop ball, and then beef up those springs!! Driving like that allows the truck to wander a lot, especially in the wind.
ALSO, either add a WDH, get a drop ball, and then beef up those springs!! Driving like that allows the truck to wander a lot, especially in the wind.
Zjohnsonua
SILVER Star
You really need to have a couple spare rear diffs for that trip. They're glass under even stock power. Add that trailer mass and add'l power and a diff failure is nearly guaranteed.
I already have the Complete Eibach suspension/lift with the extra 400 lb rear springs and the trailer came with the Anderson weight distribution hitch. It pulls great even with the factory-maintained engine. The Nomad is pretty expensive for what it is at $1,295??. I have done valve body work on GM transmissions and will have to look at what is going on with theirs. Looks like locking up the torque converter is the biggest benefit which should not be that difficult to do. Appreciate any and all ideas with like minded people! Thanks!
After investigating Toyota 2uz-fe (4.7 liter V8) the mpg is poor compared to other makes. It looks to me to be lost in the fulltime AWD drivetrain. The idea of lockup torque converter with manual control is appealing all the way around with towing. Glad I saw this here in this thread. Following towing threads, once you start pulling tandem axle trailers milage drops to 8 to 10 mpg no matter the make of vehicle. I also have a 2021 Genesis GV80 3.5 twin turbo which gets about 26 mpg on the highway and have seen these get cut to 13.5 mpg pulling U-Haul's. I have setup the Genesis GV80 to trailer this also, but I prefer the old Lexus truck on frame to be safer and heavier plus I want to do serious off roading. The GX470 is getting 16 to 17 mpg driving easy on the 20 inch rims with 12.5 x 20 x35s and pulling the trailer back from Dallas was only 9.5 to 10 at best. I am only turning 1875 rpm at 70 mph in 5th gear locked up. I don't want to change gearing, I just want to make the low end torque where it stays in 5th gear and locked up. I will probably put a 2nd transmission oil cooler on and maybe the same with the engine oil cooler. It depends on how hot I see them get in the mountains.
After investigating Toyota 2uz-fe (4.7 liter V8) the mpg is poor compared to other makes. It looks to me to be lost in the fulltime AWD drivetrain. The idea of lockup torque converter with manual control is appealing all the way around with towing. Glad I saw this here in this thread. Following towing threads, once you start pulling tandem axle trailers milage drops to 8 to 10 mpg no matter the make of vehicle. I also have a 2021 Genesis GV80 3.5 twin turbo which gets about 26 mpg on the highway and have seen these get cut to 13.5 mpg pulling U-Haul's. I have setup the Genesis GV80 to trailer this also, but I prefer the old Lexus truck on frame to be safer and heavier plus I want to do serious off roading. The GX470 is getting 16 to 17 mpg driving easy on the 20 inch rims with 12.5 x 20 x35s and pulling the trailer back from Dallas was only 9.5 to 10 at best. I am only turning 1875 rpm at 70 mph in 5th gear locked up. I don't want to change gearing, I just want to make the low end torque where it stays in 5th gear and locked up. I will probably put a 2nd transmission oil cooler on and maybe the same with the engine oil cooler. It depends on how hot I see them get in the mountains.
Last edited:
Zjohnsonua
SILVER Star
A750 has soft and hard lockup in 4th and 5th from the factory.
Good info on the A750 lockup torque converter. The A750F transmission seemed to be one of Toyotas toughest trannies they made. As far as the differentials go I have maintained mine with Amsoil lubricants. Good driving habits, no herkie jerky starts and easing into start moving all the weight may help. With this setup I will have more power if needed but I will probably only use the same power most 2uz-fe produce but at much lower rpm and get the same work done. I don't like turning 3500 to 4500 rpm going up long grades unless there is no other way LOL. I forgot I also am going to use the (no plastic) all aluminum 4 core radiator in this GX470. You can find them on Amazon for around $250 and of course Chinese made. I looked these over well and the tig welding looked good. These maybe expensive or unavailable if trouble with China happens.
Last edited:
The Wholesale lockup switch is awesome. I lugged our camper up lots of hills this past weekend that required 2nd and 3rd gear. For these hills i just manually put the trans in gear and locked the TC, then pulled up the hill in the 3000-4000 rpm range and 1/3 to 1/2 throttle. In my experience this is much easier on the drivetrain compared to lugging the N/A 2UZ, and the lockup switch keeps the trans nice and cooler (it was literally 160-170F pulling those hills). The GX never really bogged and just walked up the hills.
Regarding the Nomad valve body, It was worth the cost and I picked up ~2 mpg towing (between that and the lockup switch). The towing and daily driving performance is much better relative to the weak shifts of the OEM A750F. It shifts very positive and firm, which helps maintain speed when towing, and gives it a better overall driving experience.
Regarding the Nomad valve body, It was worth the cost and I picked up ~2 mpg towing (between that and the lockup switch). The towing and daily driving performance is much better relative to the weak shifts of the OEM A750F. It shifts very positive and firm, which helps maintain speed when towing, and gives it a better overall driving experience.
Zjohnsonua
SILVER Star
Man, don't trust that diff, especially that far from help. It's just too small a diff for that torque. They realized the flaw and fixed it in the GX460 - they went to the 8.2, totally different critter.
So the front diff shares the load and is ok but the rear diff is the weak one correct? So I need to find a 3.73 ratio 8.2 from which Toyota as a direct swap? Or can I just put a stronger 8.2 ring and pinon gear in my existing housing? Great info by the way Zjohnsonua!
Last edited:
Zjohnsonua
SILVER Star
gotta change the axle. 8 and 8.2 third members are incompatible. there are many threads in this section on this topic.
8.2 with correct gearing by year and donor type or go custom with a D60 or Diamond with 9.5" diff
I drove through the Eisenhower-Johnson tunnel Eastbound in my 06 Land Cruiser (VVT-i). Heavily loaded (we were moving), but likely not heavier than if carrying a full 7 person load. Don’t remember temp, but it was late July and it did not feel hot nor cold. I recall being between 3/4 and full throttle in 4th gear and not being able to exceed 45 mph. I know 11k ft is high altitude for a road, but I wasn’t expecting such a huge power loss.
I also noticed on a recent trip with a light load on relatively flat ground but 117ºF temps [47ºC] that the engine did not feel like it had full power. My coolant temps were running rather hot, sometimes approaching 204ºF [95ºC] on climbs.
Could it be that the 2UZ-FE has a really conservative ECU tune? Or perhaps a built-in “protective feature” that really dials things down when air density is low or temperatures are high?
Good info on the A750F. When I’m on gradual climbs, I can feel mine unlock the converter first (rpm rises by about 200) and then shift into 4th. I have noticed it likes to “hang” in 4th after your reached the summit and takes a while to shift back into 5th. Perhaps a function to help cool down the engine?
My LC is at 182k and I had a transmission fluid change (pan drop / drain / new gasket+filter) at 122k. The guy who did the service for me was a transmission expert. I asked about the reliability of the A750F and he said “they’re solid, but they do have valve body issues”.
Does anyone here know about that?
Last edited:
They can have problems with solenoids and the actual harness inside the transmission, but they seem fairly rare on this forum. I've had the latter, but not the former. In a GX470 they are a bit under-cooled (but not as badly as a the A760F in a GX460). I'm not sure on a 100-series. Probably the best thing that can be done for them (IMO) is regular complete fluid changes (all 15 quarts - on a 30-50K interval) and the addition of a larger aftermarket fluid cooler. I can only think of a couple of people reporting actual failures on here.
Any chance you could be persuaded to make a duplicate of that intercooler setup? Also, any updates or notes at this point?
