4.35L upgrade to 12HT - Details on How! (1 Viewer)

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Oct 5, 2008
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Location
Perth, Australia
Hi!

Well I have said lots of stuff about what I am going to do etc. Well here I am going to tell you about what I have helped a mate do, so I am still "0" on the doing something lately for myself lol (except if you count transplanting a 2006 1HDFTE into a 2000 LX470)

A long time ago now I discovered that the wall thickness on the 12HT was far greater than later model Toyota diesels. As an example, there is 16mm between cylinders on std bore 12HT whereas 1HZ/DT/FT/FTE has 11mm between the cylinders.

I had a block bored out and wall thickness checked - all good for boring to 95mm - 1mm oversize for the 1HDT.

Then I checked the combustion bowl position for the 1HDT. It was not quite right for the 12HT, however with the increase in capacity, the small amount of machining neccesary to have it correct meant that the compression ratio was still excellent and near std, if not the same (I cant recall, but it was fine).

A custom head gasket was made locally.

3B exhaust seats and valves were fitted :) A nice side benefit of larger diameter piston :)

Now the other reason the 1HDT piston (edit, I did say 12HT in error before) was chosen was due to its design and the fact that the compression height was ~ 6mm less than the 12HT, allowing a longer stroke crank to be used.

A local company claimed that they had been welding up and offset grinding cranks for 20 years without fault for drag racing (street cars). Anyway, we did this. The engine ran ever so sweety with 114mm stroke (up from 102mm) until the crank broke on #6 big end.

So there is a small market there for someone wanting to make up some custom cranks. I would do it except I spend all my time building turbos for people at the moment - when not working full time on day job!

Anyway, no other damage to engine, so I had 2 sets of rods made in the USA out of forged 4340. The design is actually taken from aftermarket Duramax rod good for over 100hp/ea and are lighter than the factory rod funnily enough!

The engine has been built and installed with std stroke 102mm and 95mm bore (4.35L) and OMG is still not running right (injection system). The injection pump has been rebuild twice - the first company totally stuffed it, fixed it (kind of) and then another company rebuilt it again! Cost a FORTUNE just to get back to a stock pump. It is acting really weird but anyway, in 2 weeks should be all good!

Mechanically it sounds sweet as!

The engine is in a JDM 1990 HDJ81. It runs a A442F along with 1HDT A442F torque converter (NOT the A440F) by using the bell housing from a 12HT A440F. Minor mods and all good. Has extreme stage 2 valve body from wholesale autos.

Here is a photo of the rods also posted in an old thread that I have decided today needs to not have any more comments from me on.
12HT 4.35L.jpg
 
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Yes I understand completely :)

Interstingly the 12HT's that I have worked on have all been parent bore...

That is a lot of awesome work. However, I think I can speak for most of us on this side of the pond when i say that I would be happy with a stock 12HT or 1HDT
 
Also it really wasnt that hard or (apart for the rods) expensive. The head gasket cost AUD 200 and the valves and seats were another $300 and boring out from 91mm to 95mm was an extra $100.

Its only a 10% increase, so nothing super special there, however the real kicker is that the reciprocating components are lighter and stronger meaning that more power can be made safely. Also, the exhaust ports on a 12HT are as bad as I have seen (lousy!!) and fitting larger valve seats allowed some nice shaping and seat to head matching - all very nice.

Anyway, we will see how it goes - need to get the injector pump or injectors sorted.

the pump was set to bone stock 12HT for running the engine in.

These are the symptoms:

* Starts easily - typical DI

* blows HEAPS of diesel smoke when stabbing the throttle (more than I have EVER seen, fills the street! No black, just HEAPS of unburt fuel. It also misses completely when stabbing throttle.

* Put it in drive and no smoke AT ALL under ANY load, even light load and idle.

I really have no idea because the behaviour is very strange, We are waiting to hear back from the injection shop.

On the upside, the engine sounds VERY nice!


EDITE:

I just had a crazy thought that the engine stop throttle body may be misbehaving.... maybe almost closed at idle.... I will check.

The owner works on oil rigs and is away for long periods buty is back end next week, which is why I said should be sorted in 2 weeks!
 
I miss something here ..

" Now the other reason the 12HT piston was chosen was due to its design and the fact that the compression height was ~ 6mm less than the 12HT, allowing a longer stroke crank to be used."
 
I got the rods through R&R Racing products in the USA (Mike Riechers).

They were ~ $1700 incl postage.

He Said he made a mistake on pricing and they should have been $2300 + postage.... so I bought 2 sets. Maybe a bit silly because I dont even own a 12HT, but I would like to build one up "one day"

What was the price of the rods? Is there a possibility for a group buy here? :)
 
Then I checked the combustion bowl position for the 1HDT. It was not quite right for the 12HT, however with the increase in capacity, the small amount of machining neccesary to have it correct meant that the compression ratio was still excellent and near std, if not the same (I cant recall, but it was fine).

Picking up on Talos query about a group buy.

If you're planning to do this upgrade, don't overlook this crucial sentence. You've got to be able to machine the bowl in the head of the piston to the correct place for the injector on the 12H-T - simple enough if you're competent and game, but not for the faint hearted.

And the original stroked crank broke. Will yours? It might, might not .....

Sometimes things don't work as expected. Graeme and his friend develop engines through excellent planning and calculation but with any big mods there is always a trial and error factor.

Tim
 
Also it really wasnt that hard or (apart for the rods) expensive. The head gasket cost AUD 200 and the valves and seats were another $300 and boring out from 91mm to 95mm was an extra $100.

Its only a 10% increase, so nothing super special there, however the real kicker is that the reciprocating components are lighter and stronger meaning that more power can be made safely. Also, the exhaust ports on a 12HT are as bad as I have seen (lousy!!) and fitting larger valve seats allowed some nice shaping and seat to head matching - all very nice.

Anyway, we will see how it goes - need to get the injector pump or injectors sorted.

the pump was set to bone stock 12HT for running the engine in.

These are the symptoms:

* Starts easily - typical DI

* blows HEAPS of diesel smoke when stabbing the throttle (more than I have EVER seen, fills the street! No black, just HEAPS of unburt fuel. It also misses completely when stabbing throttle.

* Put it in drive and no smoke AT ALL under ANY load, even light load and idle.

I really have no idea because the behaviour is very strange, We are waiting to hear back from the injection shop.

On the upside, the engine sounds VERY nice!


EDITE:

I just had a crazy thought that the engine stop throttle body may be misbehaving.... maybe almost closed at idle.... I will check.

The owner works on oil rigs and is away for long periods buty is back end next week, which is why I said should be sorted in 2 weeks!




Just so I have it right here;
-1HDT pistons with machined crowns
-Longer rods from the states
-Stroker crank (which broke) Has anyone come up with a revised machining process or running a different crank after machining or a complete re cast crank?
-Porting the head for better flow (anyone make a better exhaust manifold to aid flow?
Regards
Justin
 
any stroked crank will need to be stress relieved in some form or fashion that realigns the grain without hurting the forging crystalline structure. if the factory crank is in fact forged.
 
This is certainly something for the purist who wants to tweet more power out of their toyota engine. I'm not such a purist and would rather put in a bigger diesel from another manufacture. But.. I understand why this exists.
 

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