I have dug into some issues (some PM, some chasing my low idle issue) and have found that the screw in the top of this damper has come out. (captured by the plastic protective cover on top) In your 3FE experience, can this be screwed back in with a drop of Loc-Tite & be good, or am I better off installing a new part? Could this be part of my low idle (OK when starting cold, dropping to less than 650 RPM when slowing/stopped & in gear; getting worse as the operating temperatures get higher; chug-chug-chug) issue? I imagine that the screw is holding some sort of valve assy to keep fuel at a consistent pressure/flow?
I currently have the injectors out for a rebuild (WitchHunter) and would like to take care of this fuel damper while it is easy to get to. I'm also installing a new gasket for the push rod cover (wow, 30+ year old cork gasket is HARD!) as part of my attempts to eliminate vacuum issues that my be contributing to the poorly running motor. After getting the cover off, I noticed that the push rods for #6 cylinder are very loose, compared to the rest. I'm betting that I did not get things re-tightened properly when I adjusted the valves last month, so I'll be doing that again as I put everything back together (and could potentially be part of my chug-chugging when running, if both the intake and exhaust valves for #6 are way too loose?). Looking at EGR and Air Pump delete, as I already have things torn apart, and once done, eliminate a bunch of hoses/systems that also simplify troubleshooting moving forward.
Items that have been addressed/replaced to date:
new rubber boots for air intake
EFI Relay: 28300-16010
OEM fuel pump
OEM fuel filter
Fuel Pressure Regulator, 23280-74100
Fuel Pressure Damper 23207-20011
OEM spark plugs, wires, dist. cap & rotor (also pulled distributor, cleaned and re-set gaps, new o-rings)
Valve cover gasket & grommets, PCV valve, grommet & hose
OEM Throttle Position Sensor
AFM tested and verified as good
oil dipstick in good shape, added small o-ring to try and help any potential vacuum issue
Charcoal Canister Rebuild
Vacuum hose replacements & tube cleaning (still finishing up- a few hoses left to complete)
Anything major that I'm overlooking related to the low idle issue?
Thank you again to the MUD community and help!
I currently have the injectors out for a rebuild (WitchHunter) and would like to take care of this fuel damper while it is easy to get to. I'm also installing a new gasket for the push rod cover (wow, 30+ year old cork gasket is HARD!) as part of my attempts to eliminate vacuum issues that my be contributing to the poorly running motor. After getting the cover off, I noticed that the push rods for #6 cylinder are very loose, compared to the rest. I'm betting that I did not get things re-tightened properly when I adjusted the valves last month, so I'll be doing that again as I put everything back together (and could potentially be part of my chug-chugging when running, if both the intake and exhaust valves for #6 are way too loose?). Looking at EGR and Air Pump delete, as I already have things torn apart, and once done, eliminate a bunch of hoses/systems that also simplify troubleshooting moving forward.
Items that have been addressed/replaced to date:
new rubber boots for air intake
EFI Relay: 28300-16010
OEM fuel pump
OEM fuel filter
Fuel Pressure Regulator, 23280-74100
Fuel Pressure Damper 23207-20011
OEM spark plugs, wires, dist. cap & rotor (also pulled distributor, cleaned and re-set gaps, new o-rings)
Valve cover gasket & grommets, PCV valve, grommet & hose
OEM Throttle Position Sensor
AFM tested and verified as good
oil dipstick in good shape, added small o-ring to try and help any potential vacuum issue
Charcoal Canister Rebuild
Vacuum hose replacements & tube cleaning (still finishing up- a few hoses left to complete)
Anything major that I'm overlooking related to the low idle issue?
Thank you again to the MUD community and help!