You have to keep reading...
"5. Check for +12 on pin 8 (B+) on the CHECK CONNECTOR mounted on the right side of the fire wall. If +12 on pin 8 and still no CEL, then EFI circuit OK and problem is with ECU or related wiring."
Swap ECUs.
3FE No Start Issue
- Thread starter Lka1988
- Start date
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You have to keep reading...
"5. Check for +12 on pin 8 (B+) on the CHECK CONNECTOR mounted on the right side of the fire wall. If +12 on pin 8 and still no CEL, then EFI circuit OK and problem is with ECU or related wiring."
Swap ECUs.
- Thread starter
- #22
Already did that. Nothing.
We've swapped ECU, coil/igniter, relay, and fuse. Jumped the terminals, like you said to do, and nothing is happening.
Maybe chasing ghosts here.
Go through every single fuse in both fuseboxes with a meter. Pull them one at a time and check for continuity accross each fuse.
Specifically the 10 amp gauge fuse and 7.5 amp IGN fuse.
Start checking logic on the ecu wiring.
With key in the ON position:
Pin 1; 2 & 7 connector E6 should be high (+12 or close)
Pin 8 E6 should be low
Pin 2 E4 should be high
Go through every single fuse in both fuseboxes with a meter. Pull them one at a time and check for continuity accross each fuse.
Specifically the 10 amp gauge fuse and 7.5 amp IGN fuse.
Start checking logic on the ecu wiring.
With key in the ON position:
Pin 1; 2 & 7 connector E6 should be high (+12 or close)
Pin 8 E6 should be low
Pin 2 E4 should be high
- Thread starter
- #24
Checked every fuse, all good. Even the ECU and IGN fuses.
We also checked pins 1, 2, and 7 on E6, but I didn't think to check pin 8 on E6 or pin 2 on E4.
Spent some time re-reading all the posts here and this one has me puzzled. When you jump the load side of the EFI relay the fuel pump should NOT fire unless the motor is cranking/running. That's a function of the AFM and circuit opening relay which are both down stream of the EFI relay and run the fuel pump logic.
The very first post said that his starter was replaced. Anything happen during the install that we need to know about? There seems to be a piece of the puzzle missing.
- Thread starter
- #26
See, that's got me puzzled as well. But here's another thing- With the key in the ON position, the fuel pump will just stay on. You can hear it pretty loudly. We compared trucks, and we could not hear my FP at all.
He said that he didn't notice the fuel pump noise until right after he installed the new starter.
He said that he didn't notice the fuel pump noise until right after he installed the new starter.
switch fuel pumps... although that wouldnt cause no CEL, but it sounds like a problem...
- Thread starter
- #29
Jon-
This might be a longshot, but does the fuel system have to be fully primed in order for the CEL to light up prior to starting? James' fuel pump does not sound very healthy...
I ask because my truck's CEL takes about 3/4 to 1 second to light up before I can start it.
This might be a longshot, but does the fuel system have to be fully primed in order for the CEL to light up prior to starting? James' fuel pump does not sound very healthy...
I ask because my truck's CEL takes about 3/4 to 1 second to light up before I can start it.
No. The fuel pump doesn't run until you start cranking the motor. THis fires the first coil in the circuit opening relay which fires the fuel pump. Once the motor catches, the AFM switch closes (intake air flow) and fires the second coil in the COR to keep the pump running after you stop cranking.
In the event of an accident you wouldn't want the fuel pump running when the motor isn't.
The delay in CE light is simply the delay between you turning the key and all the fuzzy ECU logic falling into place and the relay contacts closing. Mine also has a very slight delay.
With the key in the ON position, try jumping pins 1 to 8 (FP to B+) on the check connector on the firewall. This will bypass all fuel pump logic and give a strong +12 to the FP. Listen for a change in sound of the FP. DO NOT LEAVE THE JUMPER IN PLACE AFTER THE TEST.
I'd be willing to bet that he never disconnected the battery during the starter swap, shorted out the positive feed to the starter (a direct run from the positive battery terminal) and blew the crap out of something.
I'd be willing to bet that he never disconnected the battery during the starter swap, shorted out the positive feed to the starter (a direct run from the positive battery terminal) and blew the crap out of something.
- Thread starter
- #32
Jon-
I'll add another piece to the puzzle here... The CEL was on for a while before he replaced the starter. We weren't able to get the code, though (wrong paperclip?). But it went out when all this started...
(Finally got time to work on it again...)
I'll add another piece to the puzzle here... The CEL was on for a while before he replaced the starter. We weren't able to get the code, though (wrong paperclip?). But it went out when all this started...
(Finally got time to work on it again...)
- Thread starter
- #33
BIG UPDATE
I forgot to mention that James had replaced his torn intake tube. Well somehow, sometime, during that process, the AFM got a little piece of metal lodged between two terminals inside. Somehow.
We removed the invading piece of metal, and voila, we had CEL.
SO. Got that out of the way. Whew.
However, we are still chasing a no-start issue.... We again followed Jon's instructions on how to diagnose a no-start issue, and this time we had a CEL. Diagnosis led us to a failed coil/igniter, but we have already ruled that out as a suspect (we used it to start my truck).
I keep thinking back to that little chewed up wire leading to the coil/igniter in post #10...
At this point, we could use any help we can get.
I forgot to mention that James had replaced his torn intake tube. Well somehow, sometime, during that process, the AFM got a little piece of metal lodged between two terminals inside. Somehow.
We removed the invading piece of metal, and voila, we had CEL.
SO. Got that out of the way. Whew.
However, we are still chasing a no-start issue.... We again followed Jon's instructions on how to diagnose a no-start issue, and this time we had a CEL. Diagnosis led us to a failed coil/igniter, but we have already ruled that out as a suspect (we used it to start my truck).
I keep thinking back to that little chewed up wire leading to the coil/igniter in post #10...
At this point, we could use any help we can get.
Well, now that the CE lamp is on the rest of the EFI system should be functional. If that's tha case and the flowchart is leading you to the coil/igniter, then it very well could be the bad cable back in the beginning.
Those shorted terminals could have done some damage to the ECU, but for now I would assume it is OK. Continue the faulty wire route.
Those shorted terminals could have done some damage to the ECU, but for now I would assume it is OK. Continue the faulty wire route.
- Thread starter
- #35
Ok. We were able to start my truck with his ECU yesterday, so it's still good...
Does Toyota offer individual plugs? The break in the wire is literally right at the plug.
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This should be available from your favorite parts guru as a wiring harness repair part. There is a specific part number prefix followed by the 5 digit code stamped on the connector in your hand in one of the pictures; 11248.
Reach out to The Great and Powerful John Hocker at Sierra Toyota or Dan the Man. Either one of those guys will point you in the right direction.
If that's a dead end, contact Cruiserparts.net and have them remove a section of that harness from a donor vehicle and splice it in place on the problem truck. The coil/igniter is specific to 91/92 FJ80s.
Reach out to The Great and Powerful John Hocker at Sierra Toyota or Dan the Man. Either one of those guys will point you in the right direction.
If that's a dead end, contact Cruiserparts.net and have them remove a section of that harness from a donor vehicle and splice it in place on the problem truck. The coil/igniter is specific to 91/92 FJ80s.
Any new updates........did you get it started?
- Thread starter
- #38
Not yet. Neither of us have any time, been swamped at work (we both work at the same place). He's gonna check out Cruiserparts.net and see what he can find.
I've been trying to get him to join the board, but he hasn't yet....he checks it out every once in a while.... Hey James.
I've been trying to get him to join the board, but he hasn't yet....he checks it out every once in a while.... Hey James.
Thank you for the shout out Lane.
My question to the Land Cruiser community is, based on the pictures and the given information if we do get that part spliced in will my Cruiser start? Or is there any other unforseen problems? Is there anything else I need to look out for? This whole project has been a series of unfortunate events over the past three months. So anything that can go wrong most likely will. But with Lanes help I am sure we will get that bad boy started.
My question to the Land Cruiser community is, based on the pictures and the given information if we do get that part spliced in will my Cruiser start? Or is there any other unforseen problems? Is there anything else I need to look out for? This whole project has been a series of unfortunate events over the past three months. So anything that can go wrong most likely will. But with Lanes help I am sure we will get that bad boy started.
If you want a definitive answer, I'll say maybe. It sure seems like a good place to start at this point. You replaced the coil/igniter with a known good unit and it has no spark.
Is there a possibility of other problems? It looks like someone chewed through the wire. Are there other problem spots? What do you think?
Is there a possibility of other problems? It looks like someone chewed through the wire. Are there other problem spots? What do you think?
