I was doing a valve adjustment and valve cover gasket replacement and was using the ignition and key to turn open and close the valves (I saw someone doing that method in a video but I now realize that I either didn't do it correctly or that was just a terrible idea and I should have just turned the crankshaft manually). On the last time, I heard a little *pop* and then it smelled burnt and I saw white smoke billowing out of either un-hosed end of the efi (see video). Now with everything reassembled, it just won't start and makes this gross sound. I'm worried I really messed up but would appreciate any help with what might be the course of action now.
3FE 1992 80 Series: Burnt out EFI?? Won't Start
- Thread starter bencho
- Start date
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how do you know your are at BTDC if you are just using the starter to bump the engine??
CharlieS
GOLD Star
I don't think that is an efi assembly per se, just a badge on the intake manifold.
It sounds to me like your starter is spinning but not extending. Might be as simple as a drained battery. The starter has to spin fast and then through inertia the bendix (?) overcomes a spring and pushes out to engage the teeth on the ring gear, turning the engine over.
It sounds to me like your starter is spinning but not extending. Might be as simple as a drained battery. The starter has to spin fast and then through inertia the bendix (?) overcomes a spring and pushes out to engage the teeth on the ring gear, turning the engine over.
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- Thread starter
- #4
I couldn't see on the flywheel indicator where the dots lined up for some reason. It wasn't visible at any angle I tried to get at so I just adjusted the valves that were open and kept turning it over until all of them were open to be adjusted at one point or another
- Thread starter
- #5
Boy that sure would be great.. I'll see if I can jump it maybe?
Couple things. Before you crank away, do you get CEL at ON position? Hard to tell from your video. Also disconnect the battery before you do any ignition related work...
Also, get a snake eye bluetooth camera and place it in front of the view window and connect with your phone while you are under the front turning the crank....you can get that cheap from amazon.
I am with CharlieS, sounds like your starter is spinning.
- Thread starter
- #7
Oh good tips thank you. I actually never get CEL so that's not abnormal.. Wondering if my bulb is burnt or something cuz it always used to start just fine. I have a charger hooked up to the battery so we'll see if she starts in the morning?
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Absolutely abnormal. The CEL should illuminate with the key in the ON/RUN position BEFORE cranking the starter. This indicates that the ECU is in a "ready" state and that the EFI system is functional.
If your CEL bulb is burned out it should be replaced. The ECU triggers this while running to make you aware of any error codes so you can diagnose the system.
In the video you mention, "EFI assembly". That is the intake manifold. It has an EFI badge on top to show off the modern technology designed in 1986.
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If you adjusted valves while they were open, then you have completely screwed up your valve train adjustment.
You start at #1 at TDC on the compression stroke, then progress through the firing order on each cylinder. Every 120⁰ of rotation you will do another cylinder.
You heard a pop because now you have an intake valve open on the compression stroke and it backfired through the intake.
Now, go gather more magic smoke and put it back in.
But first, figure out if you have a CEL. If no light with the key in the RUN position, it's not ready. You may have smoked a fusible link, or your VAF is not in position or you've torn a harness in manhandling the intake hose assembly.
So many things that can get out of order when the instructions are not followed. Then you don't know which one is causing it.
Literally start over and follow the directions exactly.
You start at #1 at TDC on the compression stroke, then progress through the firing order on each cylinder. Every 120⁰ of rotation you will do another cylinder.
You heard a pop because now you have an intake valve open on the compression stroke and it backfired through the intake.
Now, go gather more magic smoke and put it back in.
But first, figure out if you have a CEL. If no light with the key in the RUN position, it's not ready. You may have smoked a fusible link, or your VAF is not in position or you've torn a harness in manhandling the intake hose assembly.
So many things that can get out of order when the instructions are not followed. Then you don't know which one is causing it.
Literally start over and follow the directions exactly.
- Thread starter
- #10
Thank you that makes a lot of sense. My FSM says once you're at TDC, to adjust the first 3, 5th, 7th, and 9th valves before rotating. Then it says to rotate 360 degrees and adjust the remaining valves. Should I redo it that way or do each valve one by one with a 120 degree rotation for each valve?
You can follow the FSM.
This is my standard. The hard part is finding the "perfect 120⁰" mark unless you mark the harmonic balancer ahead of time with a fixed reference point on the block and the HB.
However , the 3FE has its timing marks on the flywheel so you can't see them easily or reference 120⁰ accurately.
Read this post from an earlier thread regarding making it easier to time the 3FE.
forum.ih8mud.com
Need help with no-power 1991 3FE Land Cruiser
I bought this truck back in may of last year, and have been wrenching on it ever since. I've done all of the following work below but just can't seem to get it to run right: New Water Pump, Thermostat, Radiator, and all coolant hoses New Distributor + Cap New Spark Plugs and wires New Valve...
forum.ih8mud.com
- Thread starter
- #14
Oh appreciate it!Read this post from an earlier thread regarding making it easier to time the 3FE.
Need help with no-power 1991 3FE Land Cruiser
I bought this truck back in may of last year, and have been wrenching on it ever since. I've done all of the following work below but just can't seem to get it to run right: New Water Pump, Thermostat, Radiator, and all coolant hoses New Distributor + Cap New Spark Plugs and wires New Valve...
Will it make a significant difference if I can no longer adjust the valves "hot" since I can't start the car? Should I perhaps adjust them slightly less tight or does it not matter..
Add about 0.002 to your feeler gauge
FSM may have a hot/ cold adjustment
