3F-E Radiator Hoses... Three?? (1 Viewer)

[Freshmeat]

This new rig I picked up (1991 FJ80, bone stock) has a massive coolant leak near the front of the motor. It doesn't appear to be coming down the block or timing cover or even touching the oil pan. I followed the lower radiator hose along the passenger side and it disappears between the A/C compressor and engine block. I can see where it attaches to a metal pipe, so cool- that must be my problem.

I go to the parts store today for new radiator hoses, because I might as well replace the upper at the same time... and they're telling me there are three hoses listed.

Upper hose
Lower hose (block to pipe)
Lower hose (pipe to radiator)

I bought the upper and the lower pipe to radiator hose because they didn't show the block to pipe hose at any of the local stores (I was at the "hub"), so I figured it may not apply to my specific model... but now I'm curious. It looks as though I may need to remove the A/C compressor to do this lower hose and if that's the case I don't want to have to do it twice. Can anyone confirm what's up with this block to pipe hose the parts store listed?

I've searched for coolant hose diagrams all day, but everything is relating either to the PHH or the heater hoses going to the firewall. I can't find anything actually discussing the radiator hoses.

 

[chap79]

Yes, just like getting to the tootsie roll center of a tootsie pop

 

[chap79]

Genuine OEM Radiator & Components Parts for 1991 Toyota Land Cruiser Base - Olathe Toyota Parts Center

 

[SUMMIT CRUISERS]

You will need 12,13 and 14 above. 15 is the pipe that connects 13&14. No PHH on a 3FE.
As far as your leak, 13&14 are suction hoses. Most likely a clamp is loose and needs to be tightened. Major PITA to change 14. Try to find the clamps and tighten first.

 

[malteserunner]

I changed all three. Fun stuff. #15 was pretty crusty, but it cleaned up OK.

 

[Freshmeat]

Thanks. I think. I'm not excited about this, as it'll bug the s*** out of me if I replace 12 and 13 but not 14.

@malteserunner Do I need to pull the A/C compressor and alternator to access that damn upper lower radiator hose? See? That sounds so stupid even typing it... sigh.

Going Sunday to check out an 80 at a localish junk yard (90min away) and pick up a spare drivetrain for my Jeep, then I guess I'm going to tackle this hose job. Worst part of all this is, I still don't know 100% that I'm keeping this rig because I don't want to dive into an engine rebuild, but can't confirm the condition of the motor until I drive it a bit. I know it needs a new radiator, but I don't want to drop $500 on a new all-metal radiator until I know the motor and trans are in decent shape, which I won't know until I can drive the damn thing.

Gonna be a very long, very cold weekend down here in Louisiana. Cross your fingers for me. My 13yo may be learning WAAAY more about wrenching than he ever dreamed!!

 

[Freshmeat]

To be clear, I sincerely appreciate the replies and clarifications.

$30 and a few hours' work now before I dump a bunch of money into this thing are worth it to know I have a solid framework for this build. The plan will be to find #14 and replace it all at the same time, even at the risk of doing it multiple times with the side plate thing gasket and again with the timing assembly and water pump job... which may all take place with the radiator... we'll just have to see how all this goes.

Thanks, again, for all the help. This forum has been priceless in the four days since my FJ80 ownership started!

 

[malteserunner]

Thanks. I think. I'm not excited about this, as it'll bug the s*** out of me if I replace 12 and 13 but not 14.

@malteserunner Do I need to pull the A/C compressor and alternator to access that damn upper lower radiator hose? See? That sounds so stupid even typing it... sigh.

Going Sunday to check out an 80 at a localish junk yard (90min away) and pick up a spare drivetrain for my Jeep, then I guess I'm going to tackle this hose job. Worst part of all this is, I still don't know 100% that I'm keeping this rig because I don't want to dive into an engine rebuild, but can't confirm the condition of the motor until I drive it a bit. I know it needs a new radiator, but I don't want to drop $500 on a new all-metal radiator until I know the motor and trans are in decent shape, which I won't know until I can drive the damn thing.

Gonna be a very long, very cold weekend down here in Louisiana. Cross your fingers for me. My 13yo may be learning WAAAY more about wrenching than he ever dreamed!!

I did not pull the A/C compressor.

 

[CJF]

The plan will be to find #14 and replace it all at the same time, even at the risk of doing it multiple times with the side plate thing gasket and again with the timing assembly and water pump job... which may all take place with the radiator... we'll just have to see how all this goes.

Have you even pinpointed the source of the leak yet?

 

[Freshmeat]

Have you even pinpointed the source of the leak yet?

No, but knowing there’s a leak and how hard the hoses are, I’m betting it’s related. Either way, it’ll need new hoses. I can’t see much of anything in there, but plan to have my son pour water into the radiator while I feel around now that it’s warm enough to not freeze my hand to the crossmember.

 

[CJF]

Be sure to check the weep hole on the water pump as a possible source for the leak.

 

[Freshmeat]

Be sure to check the weep hole on the water pump as a possible source for the leak.

I wasn’t sure these had a weephole, so that info definitely helps!

The block looks completely dry below the pump, but I’m not ruling it out as the source.

 

[Aggiesdm]

I replaced all 3 on my 3FE and didn’t have to remove the AC compressor, BUT...it was a PITA to get #14 in there and into position. I had the radiator out when I did mine, so it was probably easier for me to access. I would definitely clean the coupling pipe (#15) if you can. Mine was all crusty and I ended up taking a wire wheel to it to get the sludge and rust out.

Once you have #15 out, you can actually attach your 2 hoses to it before you reinstall it. Then all you have to do is connect the upper end of #14 and the other end to the lower radiator. BTW, #15 is held in place by a bracket that attaches to the block if I recall. That’s the way I did it and it seemed a little easier.

Take time to get #14 replaced. Mine was bulging so bad that it was a ticking time-bomb. You’ll have peace of mind and possibly free up some more flow in your coolant system.

 

[Katos]

Coming to this thread a bit late but how were you able to change #14 without removing the AC compressor? I can't tell how having the radiator out would help either? Need some advice on reaching this hose TIA.

 

[Toekneesan]

I moved my PSP for better access loosed the clamp on the WP went below and removed mounting bolt on #15 and removed #13 completely. Then finally after twisting, pulling and cursing and with the guidance of a screwdriver I was able to finagle #15 and #14 out of the bottom. I didn't remove any thing except for the PSP pulley and belt when I moved it aside. It was a definite PITA. I thought about removing #15 and going with one hose and sleeving it (for wear) going between the A/C mounting bracket but didn't. Just a thought for anyone else and if so how is it working?
While I was there I replaced the 1/2 " oil cooler hoses as well.
Good luck and enjoy!

 

[ozarkmud]

No specific advice. Just wanted to link to this thread as it has some good pictures on 3FE heater hoses: 3FE - Heater Valve, Rear Heater Delete, and One-Piece Molded Heater Hoses - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/3fe-heater-valve-rear-heater-delete-and-one-piece-molded-heater-hoses.1329109/