3FE - Heater Valve, Rear Heater Delete, and One-Piece Molded Heater Hoses (4 Viewers)

[Will Van]

The following information applies to Left Hand Drive FJ80s with 3FE gasoline engines.

There is tons of information regarding the rear heater delete for the 1FZ guys. But not much for the 1991 and 1992 3FE trucks. Also, the heater valve is NLA from Toyota (87240-60070) for the 1991 to 1992 YM. The valves are slightly different than the 1FZ trucks. On the 3FE trucks the coolant flows through the valve from the passenger's side to the driver's side. But on the 1FZ trucks it flows from driver's side to passenger's side (assuming left-hand drive USA truck).

After a bit of research I've located a replacement part for the heater valve. And some molded one-piece hoses to eliminate all the hardline tees and clamps at the firewall.

3FE Heater Valve (reuse your old bracket) = Four Seasons/Murray 74851

Edit: Toyota PNs 87240-06010 or 87240-33010 will also work. They are genuine Denso, but they are expensive and come with a bracket that you don’t need/use.

Driver's Side One-Piece Molded Coolant Hose = Gates 18738

Passenger's Side One-Piece Molded Coolant Hose = Gates 18799 Dayco 87682 or Gates 18838 (trim to fit)

90 Degree Driver's Side Inlet (yellow) = Gates 28469 (trim to fit)

After install you can remove the rear heater hardlines from under the truck and the rear heater unit from under the passenger's seat.

Purchase your Wits' End floor delete plate at your own discretion.

Hope this helps!

 

[GORDA91]

The following information applies to Left Hand Drive FJ80s with 3FE gasoline engines.

There is tons of information regarding the rear heater delete for the 1FZ guys. But not much for the 1991 and 1992 3FE trucks. Also, the heater valve is NLA from Toyota (87240-60070) for the 1991 to 1992 YM. The valves are slightly different than the 1FZ trucks. On the 3FE trucks the coolant flows through the valve from the passenger's side to the driver's side. But on the 1FZ trucks it flows from driver's side to passenger's side (assuming left-hand drive USA truck).

After a bit of research I've located a replacement part for the heater valve. And some molded one-piece hoses to eliminate all the hardline tees and clamps at the firewall.

3FE Heater Valve (reuse your old bracket) = Four Seasons/Murray 74851

Edit: Toyota PNs 87240-06010 or 87240-33010 will also work. They are genuine Denso, but they are expensive and come with a bracket that you don’t need/use.

Driver's Side One-Piece Molded Coolant Hose = Gates 18738

Passenger's Side One-Piece Molded Coolant Hose = Gates 18799

90 Degree Driver's Side Inlet (yellow) = Gates 28469 (trim to fit)

After install you can remove the rear heater hardlines from under the truck and the rear heater unit from under the passenger's seat.

Purchase your Wits' End floor delete plate at your own risk.

Hope this helps!

This is super helpful. Thanks. Assume you need to drain the coolant to do this, or can you avoid that if careful? I wasn't sure if these lines always have coolant in them if the heat isn't being used.

 

[Will Van]

This is super helpful. Thanks. Assume you need to drain the coolant to do this, or can you avoid that if careful? I wasn't sure if these lines always have coolant in them if the heat isn't being used.

You are welcome.

The lines always have coolant in them. The heater valve just controls when the coolant is actively circulating through that portion of the coolant loop.

But since the heater valve is the highest point in the cooling circuit, you could break it open to replace the valve and only lose the small amount of coolant at the top of the circuit (without draining the whole system down).

If you are also deleting the rear heater, all of the coolant from the rear heater hardlines and the unit under the passenger’s seat would be lost as well. You could probably run an extra drain hose on one of the hardlines and use some slight air pressure to empty the rear heater portion into a bucket. Then remove.

So it can be done.

But the ideal time to replace it would be when you’re doing other coolant work (replacing the water pump or radiator) and need to drain the whole system anyway.

Hope this helps.

 

[GORDA91]

Radiator is only about 3 yrs old and coolant looks brand new. So wasn’t planning to do other coolant work anytime soon. But truck has 227k on what appears to be original valve so I should probably get that done and bypass the rear heater as PM. Thanks for the info and tips. Ordered the hoses and the valve (Toyota version) today.

 

[ozarkmud]

Thank you for the writeup! I was able to find all of those on RockAuto. Will order and install with a new radiator.

 

[supercoupe91]

@Will Van thank you much for this

 

[Will Van]

I did the rear heater delete on my truck this afternoon. I have updated the original thread because Gates PN 18799 doesn't work very well (it's too short). A better hose is Dayco 87682 (Gates 18838).

I edited the original thread to include the updated part numbers. Here are the results.

I am still waiting on Breeze Liner Clamps. I will pull the passenger's seat and remove the rear heater unit itself once clamps come in.

 

[OGBeno]

That's super clean. Solid work. Now, I'll have to go out and find OEM hoses instead.

 

[Will Van]

That's super clean. Solid work. Now, I'll have to go out and find OEM hoses instead.

I could not find Toyota PNs 87245-60100, 87245-60890, or 87245-60130 available anywhere.

 

[OGBeno]

I could not find Toyota PNs 87245-60100, 87245-60890, or 87245-60130 available anywhere.

Oh those are discontinued and have been for a long time.

I’m looking for OEM work arounds.

 

[ozarkmud]

Thanks for sharing more information! Hopefully the shorter hose works out okay for me. If not, I'll try out the new one you mentioned.

Might you be able to provide information on those clamps? The sizes used and how many you needed. They look nice!

 

[Will Van]

Might you be able to provide information on those clamps? The sizes used and how many you needed. They look nice!

No problem. I bought a 10-pack of the Breeze Lined Clamps (part number 9412). They have an operating range from 17mm to 32mm. The rubber hoses are 25mm OD (right in the middle of the operating range).

I have used the Breeze Constant Torque clamps before, but prefer the regular Lined clamps. I found that the Constant Torque clamps don’t work very well and come at a premium cost. The “spring” that applies the constant torque isn’t robust enough. So I end up just tightening them until the spring was fully compressed. At that point, the “Constant Torque” spring serves no purpose.

The Lined clamps are simpler, work well, look good, and are cheaper.

I’ll get photos once the clamps arrive.

For just the rear heater delete, you would use 6 clamps. If you go ahead and replace the rubber hoses from the thermostat housing to the hardlines, you would use all 10.

 

[BassCruiser80]

Thanks for this! I’ll be deleting mine soon.

Will post progress photos here.