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- #41
I've never worried about dropping pieces of my precups into my cylinders despite everything there being 33 years old and despite giving my BJ40 lots of heavy towing work throughout its life.
But then my coolant system has always been spotlessly clean, I've always run quality coolant, and I've always replaced or repaired my radiator (or any other coolant-system component) at the first signs of leakage. (And I have a policy of replacing coolant hoses and water pumps automatically after they've given me long-service rather than waiting for them to fail.)
The stock temperature gauge is fine as far as I'm concerned..
In my opinion, one of the key reasons a lot of people cook their engines REALLY badly is because they rely too much on their temperature gauges and fail to recognise their limitations. What I'm referring to of course is the scenario where the coolant no longer reaches the sensor/sender (because its level has dropped so far because of a leak and/or boiling) and the temperature gauge consequntly drops well back from the "overheating segment" on the dial to give a non-thinking driver the false impression that their overheating drama has miraculously disappeared.
I don't beleive this happened due to overheating, at least not while in my possesion, rad was always full of coolant, all hoses were replaced, including the two under the truck to the rear heater, block was flushed when I installed the turbo, I use a premium diesel coolant, rad is a 4 core in good shape with nothing plugging the fins.
Always had good heat in both heaters so that tells me circulation was good. Never towed with it, it's a hobby truck, I own and have been around equipment all my adult life, and you can tell when something isn't right, especially when you are the only driver. So I don't know. Whats done is done. For the 50 bucks or so I can keep an eye on things with the replacement engine.