3B not starting (1 Viewer)

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Mar 22, 2021
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ontario
So, sadly I wasn’t paying attention… on first start up after turbo install on my 3b I had a rag in front of the turbo and it sucked it in. (It was running perfectly for 5 mins before it happened.) I ran to turn it off, I’m not sure if the rag or the key shut the motor off first but ether way…

I pulled the rag out and nothing is missing from the rag. The compressor wheel and everything seems fine, so no issues with the turbo or rag being sucked in I don’t think.

But my question is, why won’t the 3b start now? Cranks fine? Did I wreck the fuel pump diaphram by blocking off the intake?… is there a diaphragm? Must be with those two vacuum hoses coming from the intake into the pump?… don’t know much about how the fuel system works on this motor… Will look more into it tomorrow, but wanted to see if anyone had ideas on it…

Also forgot to mention EDIC was working before but now the arm is stuck in the off position so I disconnected the arm so the pump is in its resting positing… the drive spot on the pump?… what is that big round thing that the arm on the pump hits if I push it towards the over inject spot? looks like stop of sorts but why so big and with a hose on it?

Any advice would be appreciated… thanks, feel pretty stupid forgetting that rag.
 
It may be looking for oil pressure check, the manual.
Check Mud on how to prime the oil pressure sensor.
Taking it for granted that you have fuel, primed, and a good battery.
 
Update: started just fine this morning in -10°c really not sure what happend as I’ve heard it’s not as if you can flood a diesel? The trucks never not started before.
 
how is it now?
dont think you can wreck the diaphragm like that.
that thing near the edic pump arm is your HAC (high altitude compensator) the hose on mine just runs to atmosphere, it limits full fuel the higher you go (supposedly) and is just essentially a stop for the full fuel setting.
 
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how is it now?
dont think you can wreck the diaphragm like that.
that thing on the edic pump arm is your HAC (high altitude compensator) the hose on mine just runs to atmosphere, it limits full fuel the higher you go (supposedly) and is just essentially a stop for the full fuel setting.
Wow, really cool about the HAC!
It’s running and starting just like usual now!

Very happy about the turbo however, just pushing 8-9 psi, no need to push the motor too hard… just good to get over that lack of get up and go power that the 3Bs have. took it for a test drive today and EGT’S only got to 600°f ish so really happy with that.
 
Right on👍
i have mine pushing 20psi max :eek:
im about 1250f max on big hills with water to air intercooler
It just wasnt enough for me at 10 or so, i guess a 40 is a bit lighter

If you turn that hac couterclockwise (out) towards the firewall (first loosen the lock nut) you will increase the full fuel setting and you will feel the real benefit of the turbo (1/4 turn at a time)
take care to monitor the egts accordingly
Im about 1 1/4 turns out with a nice bit of pep to the old girl
 
from what I was reading is people thought that 20 would be too much for a 3b? How long have you been running that? I meannnn more doesn’t sound bad to me, haha but right now I was blown away with the little 10psi difference for the truck :rofl:
 
Right on👍
i have mine pushing 20psi max :eek:
im about 1250f max on big hills with water to air intercooler
It just wasnt enough for me at 10 or so, i guess a 40 is a bit lighter

If you turn that hac couterclockwise (out) towards the firewall (first loosen the lock nut) you will increase the full fuel setting and you will feel the real benefit of the turbo (1/4 turn at a time)
take care to monitor the egts accordingly
Im about 1 1/4 turns out with a nice bit of pep to the old girl
Is the hac the only “fuel adjustment screw?”… sorry if it’s a silly question, used to newer fuel injected gassers haha
 
no silly questions.... only learning.
it IS the fuel adjustment screw yes, and only adjusts the full fuel load setting
allowing max fuel to be higher (or lower with the hac doing its thing at altitude)
but to be sure of what is being discussed a picture would be best....
 
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FYI
the 2 lines coming off of the 'throttle plate' go to the diaphragm and control the fuel rack by means of a pressure differential in front of and behind this throttle plate.
I have modified this to send the fuel rack to full fuel sooner in the throttle position by means of lessening the pressure on the 'backside' of the diaphragm that is in the pump.
If you are interested in messing with this just ask
 
from what I was reading is people thought that 20 would be too much for a 3b? How long have you been running that? I meannnn more doesn’t sound bad to me, haha but right now I was blown away with the little 10psi difference for the truck :rofl:
Yes people think low psi is best for a 3b, and im not saying they are wrong.
Its not the psi necessarily that does a 3b in but the peak cylinder pressure acting on the crank.
To help lessen this, retarding your injection pump timing is a must do.
And honestly even if you dont tune your 3b any more than you have done I would highly recommend you retard your injection timing.
Probably the single best thing to do for a 3b-with-a-turbo longevity.
Again, if you want to go down that route just ask, it isnt 'hard' to do really.
 
BTW, be mentally prepared to do your headgasket in the near future if you havent already.
If its the original it wont stand up to boost for too long.
OEM toyota MLS headgasket is much better.
 
Yes people think low psi is best for a 3b, and im not saying they are wrong.
Its not the psi necessarily that does a 3b in but the peak cylinder pressure acting on the crank.
To help lessen this, retarding your injection pump timing is a must do.
And honestly even if you dont tune your 3b any more than you have done I would highly recommend you retard your injection timing.
Probably the single best thing to do for a 3b-with-a-turbo longevity.
Again, if you want to go down that route just ask, it isnt 'hard' to do really.
Here’s the pic of what I’m thinking we are talking about…. Yea would love to know more about good longevity things to do, while making good power

IMG_0258.jpeg
 
yes thats the hac/fuel limiting 'screw' towards the firewall is more fuel
 
Oh and super important is that now being boosted you will blow off those sense lines coming off of the 'throttle plate' put some clamps on them or your engine could go into full fuel mode and a runaway condition
both ends of each hose
 
Oh and super important is that now being boosted you will blow off those sense lines coming off of the 'throttle plate' put some clamps on them or your engine could go into full fuel mode and a runaway condition
both ends of each hose
Yup, thought about that while I was doing it and I’m putting clamps on them tomorrow haha… now I just need a 5 speed!!!
 
To retard your injection timing you rotate the pump away from the engine ( at the top of pump )
There are 4 bolts that you just need to loosen to allow movement. (theres a thread with pics i can give you)
There are match marks on the pump chiseled into the moveable pump and the stationary housing attached to the front engine cover so you can tell how far its moved.
If you find these maks you can see where its been set prior.
I moved mine 1.5mm from its former position.
 
To retard your injection timing you rotate the pump away from the engine ( at the top of pump )
There are 4 bolts that you just need to loosen to allow movement. (theres a thread with pics i can give you)
There are match marks on the pump chiseled into the moveable pump and the stationary housing attached to the front engine cover so you can tell how far its moved.
If you find these maks you can see where its been set prior.
I moved mine 1.5mm from its former position.
Great, thanks so much! I’m going to mess around with it as is this week and update from there I think. I have a 3hr drive on Tuesday and again Wednesday, so I will test the set up pretty well then ahah.
 

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