3B fuel filter change , help. (1 Viewer)

[caper]

Where is the bleed screw on my JDM 3B , I can see the primer pump and the in and out hoses going into the fuel filter holder but I cannot see a bleeder screw anywhere if there is one . I am scared to take off the fuel filter and fill it with diesel and reinstall and hope for the best . Anyone have any input this is my first time changing it and don't want to air lock it . Anyone have a quick procedure to change this . Thanks

 

[roalco]

Is yours the fuel filter with the hand fuel primer pump built in on the suction side of the top filter body? If it is, you should be able to just slacken off ( one or two flats) the hollow bolt that holds on the discharge line banjo fitting and bleed it there. That is the highest point in the downstream side.

 

[caper]

Yes mine is the type with the plunger on the top of the filter housing body . I was thinking of doing that ( looseing the banjo bolt on the out side of the filter housing ) but I thought I was missing somethig as it should have a bleeder somewhere . I don't think one is suppose to loosen the banjo bolts off without replacing the washers as they are suppose to be one time use and may leak if used again. Oh well here I go , I'll give it a shot. Thanks

 

[hopeb]

On my LHD it is right beside the fuel filter.

 

[Dieseler]

Sometimes they dont have one not sure why...but I have had some JDMs with and some without they have a blind nut instead of the bleeder nipple it can be swapped out if you can find one.

 

[roalco]

No reason not to reuse the banjo washers, they should be copper (but sometimes you may find aluminum ones), so all you have to do if you are concerned is to anneal them. Just take them off, heat them up to red hot and quench them in water (or let them air cool, same diff with copper), they'll be nice and soft for a good seal. (don't do this to aluminum ones.... ) They are made to be reused, it's standard engineering practice.
Personally I'd just bleed and retighten, even though they may be partially work hardened (Al or Cu), they'll still deform to seal.

 

[LDowney]

.. I am scared to take off the fuel filter and fill it with diesel and reinstall and hope for the best . ...

FYI Over the past few years on three different BJ70s, I have changed the 3B fuel filter without ever needing to bleed the system. I just fill the filter with fuel and spin it on. Years ago when I worked on semi's, we would fill the filters with kerosene to make start up easier and I don't recall ever needing to bleed the system on one of these trucks either. So bleeding should not be required, but you are prepared for the worst.

 

[caper]

Just finished changing it , I put on a baldwin empty opened the outlet bleeder and pumped it 1000 times , could see sputering fuel and bubbles around the loose bango but could not get a steady stream , so I removed the filter to find it still bone dry . I filled the SOB up with fuel and gave it a few more pumps and fuel the started comming out around the bango . Then tightened it up and fired it up with no issues. Moral of the story is fill the filter with fuel before putting it on . I dont believe the plunger as the suction power to fill an empty filter , maybe mine is just worn out , it didnt feel like it was pulling fuel it had no resistance at all when pumping it ??

 

[lostmarbles]

No reason not to reuse the banjo washers, they should be copper (but sometimes you may find aluminum ones), so all you have to do if you are concerned is to anneal them.....

OEM specification for "fuel banjo washers" for my BJ40 is "rubber-coated-steel" and I find they are the only ones that work well for me. (I find copper needs too much torque ... even when reannealed.)

And the rubber-coated steel ones should be available from any good diesel-injection servicing company but they can be expensive. (I seem to remember having to pay something ridiculous like $2 each last time!)

Because of these "washer problems" I would highly recommend fitting a proper bleeder. (You could even drill and tap the head of a banjo bolt for a small hex-head screw yourself and use a small copper washer under the head of that!)

FYI Over the past few years on three different BJ70s, I have changed the 3B fuel filter without ever needing to bleed the system.

What works for one engine doesn't necessarily work for another!

I think Caper's BJ42 has the same setup as me. That is, he doesn't have any "diesel return line" to his fuel tank. And with such vehicles, you MUST avoid leaving any air in your fuel system after you do servicing (because it CAN'T be auto-purged back to the tank).

 

[lostmarbles]

Just finished changing it , I put on a baldwin empty opened the outlet bleeder and pumped it 1000 times , could see sputering fuel and bubbles around the loose bango but could not get a steady stream , so I removed the filter to find it still bone dry . I filled the SOB up with fuel and gave it a few more pumps and fuel the started comming out around the bango . Then tightened it up and fired it up with no issues. Moral of the story is fill the filter with fuel before putting it on . I dont believe the plunger as the suction power to fill an empty filter , maybe mine is just worn out , it didnt feel like it was pulling fuel it had no resistance at all when pumping it ??

Did you open the correct banjo? (Perhaps you opened the inlet instead of the outlet if diesel came out yet the filter didn't fill will fuel?)

Whatever the case, I suggest replacing your little primer pump with a Bosch unit becuase IMO they're a much better design than the others (even than the OEM unit) and are much more likely to give you trouble-free service for years to come.



Oh.... And fit a proper bleeder if you don't have one (as already mentioned in my last post).

And don't forget to bleed the injection pump housing too (even if you have managed to get it running again).. Surely you must have a nipple there?

PS. At least now you can purge any remaining air from your filter and injection pump while your engine is running. (So you no longer need to operate your dodgy primer pump.)

 

[darthvincor]

That's good to know, to fill up the filter.

On a related note: I was thinking of replacing both the primary filter and secondary cartridge one. Can you get away with only bleeding at the cartridge filter? (I'd really like to avoid bleeding the injectors)

 

[lostmarbles]

...I was thinking of replacing both the primary filter and secondary cartridge one. Can you get away with only bleeding at the cartridge filter? (I'd really like to avoid bleeding the injectors)

Sure can.

There's no need for any air to get past the filters if you bleed them properly.

Furthermore, inline-type injector pumps usually have their own bleed nipples to purge out any air that you may allow to get past the filters (due to poor purging procedure or whatever).

So only if air gets past there (or if I've had my injector lines off or similar) would I ever crack my injector nuts to bleed out air.

 

[darthvincor]

Sure can.

There's no need for any air to get past the filters if you bleed them properly.

Furthermore, inline-type injector pumps usually have their own bleed nipples to purge out any air that you may allow to get past the filters (due to poor purging procedure or whatever).

So only if air gets past there (or if I've had my injector lines off or similar) would I ever crack my injector nuts to bleed out air.

Thanks, Lostmarbles.
I'll give it a go soon then. Mine's a 2H, but I figured they're pretty similar with the pump and filter setup.

 

[Dieseler]

Can you snap a picture of your filter body with the primer attached I have never come across that version and would like to see what it looks like for reference if I ever come across one in my future JDM puchases.
All of mine the filter and primer are always seperate from each other.

 

[caper]

Did you open the correct banjo? (Perhaps you opened the inlet instead of the outlet if diesel came out yet the filter didn't fill will fuel?)

Yes I opened the outlet bango , you could just see air bubbles from a little bit of fuel that was still around the bango as I was pumping , so it seems the plunger was working somewhat but not enough to pull fuel into the filter from the tank. I didn't notice a bleeder on my injection pump any one have a pic of it . I will post pics of my set up next week when I I get off vacation and can download pictures.

 

[ducatiman81211]

easier way

I changed my fuel filter on my 13BT and I think the easiest way is just unscrew the old filter, fill the new one with fuel, and screw back on. I have never had any problems doing this. I think you are doing it the hard way, maybe not better either?

Where is the bleed screw on my JDM 3B , I can see the primer pump and the in and out hoses going into the fuel filter holder but I cannot see a bleeder screw anywhere if there is one . I am scared to take off the fuel filter and fill it with diesel and reinstall and hope for the best . Anyone have any input this is my first time changing it and don't want to air lock it . Anyone have a quick procedure to change this . Thanks

 

[lostmarbles]

Can you snap a picture of your filter body with the primer attached I have never come across that version and would like to see what it looks like for reference if I ever come across one in my future JDM puchases.
All of mine the filter and primer are always seperate from each other.

Here's what the EPC shows for a JDM BJ60. The primer is on the filter-housing and there are no bleed nipples at all....



And here's one in reality (Sorry for the poor quality of the pic ....Borrowed it off the Internet.)...

.... I didn't notice a bleeder on my injection pump any one have a pic of it . ..

Here's another pic borrowed/stolen off the Internet where I've added arrows pointing to the bleed nipple locations on the fuel filter and injector pump. (I'm sick of showing my cruiser every time.):



And this photo is particularly interesting because it shows the fuel filter bleed nipple fitted in the WRONG place (inlet) whereas it should be fitted to the outlet.

Apparently the Toyota factory workers got confused and swapped them around incorrectly for some models. - They should ALWAYS be on the outlets! (This has been discussed in previous threads but it is worth mentioning again here I think.)

I changed my fuel filter on my 13BT and I think the easiest way is just unscrew the old filter, fill the new one with fuel, and screw back on. I have never had any problems doing this. I think you are doing it the hard way, maybe not better either?

Same comment/reply as for LDowney ......That is ....I believe your engine is capable of "auto-purging" because I think you have a return fuel line back to your fuel tank. (A 3B in a BJ42 doesn't have this so the same procedure can't be used successfully.)

 

[ducatiman81211]

good info thanks.

 

[Dieseler]

That photo looks correct to me the deadhead plug at the front of the filter is from the IP and the nipple in the rear is the outlet to the injectors??

Corrction is backwards my laptop pic is to small for my old eyes

 

[hopeb]

Just want to confirm that that pic is defintely INCORRECT as that is the same way mine sits currently on the fuel filter??

Thanks,

Brian