3B engine swap to 15BFT. (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Donbugge
- Start date
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What's the idling revvs? It sounds like it's running a bit fast to me...
Otherwise sounds great ...
Otherwise sounds great ...
- Thread starter
- #43
hi, running a bit fast yes, still making some adjustments, the engine runs great, but however I am not pleased with the idling sound .... u cant hear it on the video, but I have to go see the diesel guru later this comming week..... it like not running 100% straight.... sounds a bit of on one cylinder, and it smells a lot of diesel .... from the exhaust. I Will let u know what turns up later..
But.... look at this dyno test i had made on my old 3b engine... a week before the swap.... i know, the old engine could be made a lot better just by adjusting and so on... but i chose another engine
I will give you a new dyno test later on with the new engine.
But.... look at this dyno test i had made on my old 3b engine... a week before the swap.... i know, the old engine could be made a lot better just by adjusting and so on... but i chose another engine
I will give you a new dyno test later on with the new engine.
That's not a lot of power out of the old 3B. Nice flat torque curve though. Would be very interesting to see what the 15B does.
Hello. So you ended up using which flywheel. I ran into the same issue. My aluminum 3b bell housing is too small for the clutch and fly wheel on my 15bt
injection timing off
- Thread starter
- #47
hi tacoma and others....
long time no see...... well, when I joined the 15bft engine with the h55F gearbox, i had to remove the bigger "Flywheelhousing" behind the big flywheel on the 15bft engine...... then the engine would fit directly to the gearbox, using the smaller flywheel from the "new" generation 3B engine ..... approx year 1995 .... called the 3bII ( 3b2 ) engine, this flywheel is with 8 bolt fitting and it is for 275 mm clutch as i recall..... then i used a extremeclutch for BJ71/74 models(they run 13bt engines and need bigger clutches)..... the original 3B engine only uses 260mm clutch as i recall....
the timing of the engine was off, that has now been corrected, it runs okay now.
long time no see...... well, when I joined the 15bft engine with the h55F gearbox, i had to remove the bigger "Flywheelhousing" behind the big flywheel on the 15bft engine...... then the engine would fit directly to the gearbox, using the smaller flywheel from the "new" generation 3B engine ..... approx year 1995 .... called the 3bII ( 3b2 ) engine, this flywheel is with 8 bolt fitting and it is for 275 mm clutch as i recall..... then i used a extremeclutch for BJ71/74 models(they run 13bt engines and need bigger clutches)..... the original 3B engine only uses 260mm clutch as i recall....
the timing of the engine was off, that has now been corrected, it runs okay now.
Ok. Thanks for the info donbugge
Hi Donbugge, do you happen to have a closeup of the vaccum lines? I've had this engine on my fj62 for a couple years now but recently I've been running on a couple issues with the engine not being able to shut off and not getting enough power out of it when trying to accelerate. I have messed with those vaccum lines and that seems to be the problem.Hi, I am right now doing a engine swap from 3B to a 15BFT. Still working on the project but the engine is in my car now, only missing all the small things ( the hard bit ! )
Photos will come, ( when I know how to ) ask if you have any questions.....
The car is a BJ75 Van - 1987
View attachment 947190
Thank you in advance
What have you "messed with", and why? The vacuum setup on a 15BFT looks confusing at face value but it should be simple to trace out. If you have an inline pump 15BFT, all the electronics are usually 24V so assuming you didn't mess up the plumbing the OEM 24V shutdown VSV would be the first thing I'd check. Small Toyota 24V solenoids are notorious for being unreliable when actuated with 12V
TLDR: on a 15BFT you only "need" a hose from the intake to the IP boost compensator, and from vac pump thru VSV to the shutoff actuator for it to run. The other stuff is just idle up for PS etc and as long as there's no vacuum leaks they shouldn't stop the engine from running
Engine shut down on an inline pump 15BFT is via VSV (electronic Vacuum Switching Valve), you should be able to trace the vac lines from the vacuum actuator (diaphragm with a rod connected to a lever on the injection pump), thru the VSV, to the vacuum pump. You can easily check the VSV is switching and that the diaphragm/actuator operates under vacuum. NB: some VSV's are NO (normally open) and some NC (normally closed), I believe the original system should be a 24V NO VSV with a valve that closes with ignition power applied, a 12V NO VSV from a 12HT is often swapped for 12V systems
Boost reference runs from the 15BFT intake to the diaphragm port directly on the injection pump (IP) body. If you connected vacuum to this, you won't get boost compensation at the pump to increase fuel relative to boost pressure. Mine didn't come with any of the hoses so I shorted the intake port straight to the IP, this may go thru a VSV in the factory setup to limit boost compensation for economy reasons, but a VSV in this line is not necessary for the engine to run
