3b egts after turbo? + intercooler pixs!!!

[bj70cruzer]

i was thinking to put a 19t compressor wheel and housing onto my turbo which shuld help with higer boost

what do you think?

i know the housing will fit but will the turbine sit in the CHRA were the turnine recceses into or will it be to large to recces in to the gap? maybe theres one specially made for the smaller CHRA?

Thanks!

 

[gerg]

The 13t maps pretty much perfectly for what your doing. It can do quite high pressure raios easlily. I actualy cant think of a better compressor other than the newer gen garrett people have used here. Breathing on the intake side will not easily fix the drive pressure on the exhaust side. To run more boost it takes more torque. To get more torque you need a larger turbine. Keep in mind that 20 psi from a failrly old school single turbo is quite alot to ask of it. I wouldnt expect much more out of it. Hook up a line to check drive pressure and that will point you in the right direction.
g

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Greg mine is a TD04HL-13T that I have upgraded to 19T for my Isuzu. Still do not see hoe compounds are going to fit in there though.

Yeah the PHH is a common engine killer, I proactive replaced mine when I first got it at the same time I changed the HG.

 

[gerg]

Here is a rough map of the 13t with the boost your running.
1700,1950, 2200 2600 and 3000 are the points on the map. If you want to go past 3000 at that pressure then you will need a larger compressor. The 19t can do to red line, but then your turbine would be ven more overworked. Id say keep it as is. Its a good match.




Jereme, I still need to come over and see how your progress is going and take that extra compressor and cover off your hand if you dont need it before my busy fall schedual begins. I think compounds could barely fit if we cleaned up the drivers side engine bay and relocated as much as possible. Cource the boost and master cant be moved, but battereis and fueses etc can. Relocating the AC compressor would be a huge help as well, but that sounds like a tuffy. Loosing AC for a compound would be a tuff choice as silly as that sounds. After never ever, not even once owning a car with AC I have now grown quite fond of mine and would be unwilling to give it up. Its for my wife and kids... really.

I can see how that phh is an engine killer. Was just a pin hole it seemed and leaked gradually. Fortunately I was watching the guage during all the hill climbs and caught this right away. Literally 30 secs more and it would have been to the top of the red. Another reason to like evans, but with less thermal transfer turbo engines seem to have detonation issues vs regualr coolant mix. Crappy.

g

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Jereme, I still need to come over and see how your progress is going and take that extra compressor and cover off your hand if you dont need it before my busy fall schedual begins. I think compounds could barely fit if we cleaned up the drivers side engine bay and relocated as much as possible. Cource the boost and master cant be moved, but battereis and fueses etc can. Relocating the AC compressor would be a huge help as well, but that sounds like a tuffy. Loosing AC for a compound would be a tuff choice as silly as that sounds. After never ever, not even once owning a car with AC I have now grown quite fond of mine and would be unwilling to give it up. Its for my wife and kids... really.

I can see how that phh is an engine killer. Was just a pin hole it seemed and leaked gradually. Fortunately I was watching the guage during all the hill climbs and caught this right away. Literally 30 secs more and it would have been to the top of the red. Another reason to like evans, but with less thermal transfer turbo engines seem to have detonation issues vs regualr coolant mix. Crappy.

g

Yeah let me know, starting in September it going to be every night after work and weekends till its done. I really do not have a lot done since the last time you where over though. Yes moving some bits around would make the compounds possible but I'm still left wondering if I need it. I have been down the testosterone filled power path before and I cant afford that any more.

There is a possibility of moving the AC compressor to the passenger side (its the stock location on my truck). It would make getting the mechanical side of the A/C much easier. Its all just a matter of space at this point.

 

[Dougal]

I've just run through HX30/HX35 compounds on 4BTswaps. Looks like they'll support 400hp easily. HE221 aka TD04HL-19T as the little one will do at least as well.

I can't find any MHI maps, but the Garrett GT22 turbine (same trim but a bit smaller) can produce ~39kw of shaft power on a 4BD1T with 700C EGT and 3,400rpm.
Which is enough for ~28psi and ~190kw. It could possibly be pushed further, but that's where the map line stops.

The TD04HL turbine should do a bit better.

 

[gerg]

Well the 19t compresor shows it can push 28lbs on a 3.9 to 2700rpm and still be 70% effecient. Pretty crazy really. I have a feeling the thrust bearings would suffer alot though. Its quite an impressive little compressor.

 

[Dougal]

Well the 19t compresor shows it can push 28lbs on a 3.9 to 2700rpm and still be 70% effecient. Pretty crazy really. I have a feeling the thrust bearings would suffer alot though. Its quite an impressive little compressor.

All this talk of thrust bearings is why I recommend the HX30 in the compound set. It's a bearing core built to run a bigger turbo. So it's better placed to handle higher density air and higher shaft torque.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

All this talk of thrust bearings is why I recommend the HX30 in the compound set. It's a bearing core built to run a bigger turbo. So it's better placed to handle higher density air and higher shaft torque.

After seeing the shaft size on the TD04HL i would not compound it. Its a tiny shaft sized to the family size of the turbo. The HX30 shaft in comparative terms is as large or larger than the TD07/T8 series shafts from MHI. Ill run my 19t at about 25psi and see how it fares with a OEM rebuild kit. I plan to build my second turbo the same but with a dual oil feed trust bearing.

 

[gerg]

Bj70 I wondered if you could do a few high load 4th gear runs to post up boost at certain rpms. Like say boost at 1200rpm, 1500, 1700 and 2000. I know your turbo is a great match, but always wondered what it boosted like in the low rpms under heavy load. Is your wastegate clamped shut? How are you controlling your bosot?

thanks
g

 

[bj70cruzer]

il be driving to the city tommorow so will to it then and post the results.

im using a manual boost controller at the momnent i unhooked the wastegate and I was hitting 30psi so was not ideal. I thought it would of topped out at 20psi but it didnt.

ive heard many people on here just unhook the wastegate how to they not hit 30+psi?

Thanks!

 

[gerg]

They are most likely running much larger turbos than you. Yours is quite small compared to what most people put on. A common mistake is to let your ego choose your turbo size rather than size it properly. There is very little turbo info on the web about turbo sizing diesels in our displacement and operating rpms. Lots of folks jsut guess. I did alot of trial and error tuboing, and yes my ego got in the way too.

And please dont boost up to 30 anymore. Your turbo is overspooling by a huge margin. It is way way off the map. Not very good at all, but I guess you already knew that.

 

[bj70cruzer]

okay so i drove to the city today theres not to many places where you can put load on the motor just flat ground.

But i still got some readings anyway.

1200rpm 4th gear is 3psi

1400+rpm is 5psi

1700rpm 8psi

from 1800rpm to 2000 it goes to 10 psi

2200rpm shoots upto 15psi depending on load and how far my foot is planted to the ground.

20psi is only if i rev it to 2300+ underload.

so a hardly see 20psi unless im overtaking and have my foot all the way down.

do these number sound right?

i have 4.5 turns out of the fuel screw i can go out more but it dosnt realy make any difference i think i have maxed out its fueling capacity?

still dnt hit over 550degrees celcius

on the freeway on 100km/g it sits on 350degrees celcius

Thanks!

 

[gerg]

Those are some nice numbers thanks. If you put a grainger valve in the wastegateline it will delay the wastegate from opening until the total boost is reached if you want. It will give you better boost down low, but I think it might also give you high cruising boost as your set pretty high. You can get them on ebay for like 20$ as there just some brass fittings, a spring and a ball bearing. Better to buy one than make it as guys sell them for so cheap its not worth your time to make it.

Thanks for the numbers
g

 

[Dougal]

After seeing the shaft size on the TD04HL i would not compound it. Its a tiny shaft sized to the family size of the turbo. The HX30 shaft in comparative terms is as large or larger than the TD07/T8 series shafts from MHI. Ill run my 19t at about 25psi and see how it fares with a OEM rebuild kit. I plan to build my second turbo the same but with a dual oil feed trust bearing.

Don't suppose you measured the shaft?

The benefit of the HX30 is it's the smallest turbo in it's family so it gets an oversized shaft and bearings. The TD04HL is the largest turbo in it's family so the shaft and bearings become the smallest.

Having said that. Compounding it with 1 bar will only increase shaft stress by ~60%.

 

[bj70cruzer]

ok so i have a question that i have been wanting to ask since i put my turbo on.

So the first drive after the turbo install it feels only a bit more powerful (i didnt adjust boost or fuel then due to no intercooler and gauges hooked up)

so on my first freeway drive my throttle ip hose from the butterfly valve (whatever its called) came off after clamping it on was all fine for the rest of the day.

the next day on the same freeway after driving 10 minutes the car jerks forward like its gained 50hp. so i pulled over and checked everything and found my wastegate hose had come of, so i zipp tied it on

so since this event occured it made the engine realy powerful at 2000rpm each gearchange anything below 2000rpm was sluggish then it would hit 2000 and push me back into the seat. and driving on the freeway on 100km/h the throttle was very sensitive and would accelerate away if a bump moved my foot slightly.

i didnt have any gauges to see what was happening at the time, this stayed like this until i changed my IP diaphragm as it was torn and my idle was to high after this the car went back sluggish like it was from day one.

so after the tune and intercooler and more boost I have more power down low and up high but dont get that harsh kick at 2000rpm like before.

Im just trying to figure what made it kick in at 2000rpm so hard out of no were it was a randon thing that came and went and cant figure out how and why it happened.

Any thoughts?

Thanks!