1HD-FT after market Turbo set up (1 Viewer)

[Stephan Mester]

Good day,
cause of this massive thread in this forum section I post separate my after market turbo set up which is working.
I purchased following hardware: ( I do not promote or get any discount from this supplier!)
My car has a front mount intercooler,3 inch exhaust, Snorkel and K&N filter

12-11 Billet Turbocharger For TOYOTA LandCruiser 1HD-T 1HD-FT 3" TD05H-18G 7cm​

The configuration of the turbo seems to be right, the turbo it self is working good.
Do I have a huge performance upgrade?
NO, it is working a bit better and thats it
I did not adjusted the fuel pump, this is on plan.
I run actually now 0.8bar with a peak of 0.9bar on my madman EMS3
EGT is under full load 480°C (there is some room to tweak fuel adjustment)

Very important!!!
All supplied hosing / adapters etc are not a plug and play fitment.
I had to build my own water line pipes, my own air air intake etc.
bracket for actuator has to get modified
It is very time consuming and frustrating

To set the right boost pressure is actually a pain, there is no space to change easily the spring once the turbo is build in.
Be aware to use the 1.2bar spring for the actuator, the installed 0.8bar spring is to weak.

Other wise I am OK with this turbo

Would I buy the same one from this supplier again?
100% NO
This company sells "kits" without having even one build in by themselvers.
To adapt this turbo took me several days, had to buy additional tools like a brakeline pipe bender to build the water cooling connection
and a ton of other work.

Summary:
Its a working turbo, with a slight better performance than the OEM unit.
If you want to save money and time I really recommend to buy the turbo from a 1HD-FTE (CT20)
Purchase the OEM adapters for airintake

The CT20 will suit much better and is a much quicker installation.
It is widely available aftermarket

I will not respond to any questions, nor will I recommend any supplier.
This has to be seen as a summary only!

 

[AussieHJCruza]

Strongly recommend getting rid of the K&N filter.

 

[Stephan Mester]

Performance update with good results!
I would recommend to use the strongest of the supplied actuator springs
The guys on the dyno have their boost sensor calibrated once a week.
My EMS shows peak 0.9bar, in real it is 0,7peak!
This is with the medium spring supplied by Mamba, which suppose to be a 1.2bar spring.
(so much for the parts acuracy from Mamba)

I will try the 1.8bar spring soon, that should bring me at least the original 0.8bar or a bit more.
And yes, I set the pre tension correctly.
Its probably because those Mamba parts are not tested at all after production.

If one goes for the turbo, it might be wise to purchase a quality actuator and throw that junk directly into the recycling bin.
Its literally a pain to get the actuator out (there is not much space)

When I go on dusty roads I use a foam sock for the snorkel , see results from the dyno and fuel pump adjustment.
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[pif]

Installed the same turbo and can confirm all your observations about not really being bolt-on etc.
I was too lazy to take the turbo off to change the spring, so I ended up installing the electronic boost controller, which works flawlessly. It's set to 1.3 bar (like 19 psi) and that seems a good trade-off between power and reliability. Peak EGT is around 700 C, regular highway temp is 500.
I didn't tune the fuel (mainly the boost compensator in fact) by myself, but I know this operation even didn't involve boost compensator rod geometry as many do.

So unfortunately no dyno, but road 0-100 kmh test showed 10s (HDJ80 with 35" and AT), which clearly beats HDJ100 with it's stock ~200hp.
Though I don't relate the success to the turbo itself but mostly to high boost, which would not be safe on stock turbo.