#3 cylinder has no compression.

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I'm sure you have thought this through already, but just in case I'll say it anyway; be sure to do the valve lash as soon as you put it together as the material you are removing from the head is two or three times greater than the clearance you had. I always ran best with .005 on intake and .007 on exhaust, setting the valves on a warm engine. I know that is tighter than what Toyota calls for, but hey, I liked it better and there were no side effects. Just my $.02.
 
Sounds like good advice to me. I intentionally took all the adjusters loose so I would not forget to adjust them first, knowing after the head comes back from the shop things would not be the same. I'll also try the tighter valve clearance. I don't like noisy valves. Does it help to improve performance at all?
 
Hey lehiguy, or anyone else who knows. After milling the head...do I have to lower, or mill, the head guides that are attached to the block , on the front & rear most head bolt holes?
 

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