2wd to 4x4 SAS 1986 Toyota Chinook camper build

[meigsrock]

I know I will need the larger master cylinder which I have and I can use either the fj80 one on the truck or the 2000 Tacoma one on the booster.

I am not sure if the old booster on the truck is a double diaphram one which will give better breaking feel.

First pic is the 2000 Tacoma booster, second is old booster, third is tag on old booster.

I tack welded some 2x2x 1/8" steel in between the frame as a spacer for the JF60 sway bar bracket because a FJ60 frame is wider. Drilled and tapped two holes and bolted on the sway bar.

I ground off some more tabs on the inside of the frame for prep to install the power steering box tomorrow.

I also picked up this bumper last week for super cheep. Came off of a 92 so I am not sure if it will go on my pickup or on the camper. I will have to hold it up to see if it will work on the camper when I get closer to done.

I installed the 5" TG shackles and greasable bolts, spacers etc. but not welded in place yet. Too much wind outside today.

The last pic. is weight on the axle and tire placed in wheel well to see how much room is in it.........a lot. Defiantly going to upgrade to a 31-33" tire eventually.

 

[meigsrock]

Bumper and truck front ride height.

 

[meigsrock]

I tacked in the shackle tubes that go through the frame for the rear of the front springs. You can see the spacers I used to get the springs lined up. Works out really well giving enough clearance on both sides of the frame for the shackles to clear. I wish I had drilled the holes slightly more to the front (maybe .5") of the frame to give the shackles a shallower angle for a bit of a smoother ride but I think it will be OK.

I also mocked up the front shock location and worked on the shock travel a bit. Using stock FJ60 shock mount towers and shocks. I might be able to get more down travel flex out of the axle if I put a longer sway bar link on it or moved them down slightly but I will work those details out once I have it together and test drive it for a bit.

So far with the 5" TG shackles up front under full compression there is 1-1.5" clearance between top of diff and oil pan so clearance should be OK. But I do need to put in some bump stops eventually to make sure the pumpkin does not come up and hit the oil pan.

I made progress on the power steering location today. I used the Marlin Crawler P.S. steering box mounting plates and re-used the bottom right/rear hole in the frame. I then drilled out the front hole and put the sleeves in and welded the sleeves in place. Here is a picture of it tacked and bolted in place for moc up. Looks like it should work just fine. Lined up with the steering link rod perfect although the length is off and I have to fab it for FJ80 TRE joint. That will be tomorrows project.

Using a flat pitman arm and should have just enough clearance for the nut once the TRE is installed. If not I will either notch the frame or install a drop pitman arm.

I talked to the guys at GTF Toyota fab shop and they said the 2000 Tacoma booster and master cylinder will work well, which they have done before so that is what I will use.

I am looking for good shocks for the front and rear so I am open to suggestions.

Local shop has KYB gas-a-just LC shocks for front (1985 FJ60)and rear shock options (1985 4x4 pickup) are Monroe matic plus, Monroe gas charge HD, Monroe spectrum OE (supposed OEM replacement).

 

[extremetoy1]

OK, so now the x-mas madness is over I can think about strating on this thing again. I definatly need it running for the summer. I get a lot more fishing done when I have it running.

So I am going to pull the front axle out soon and start the rebuild. I SERIOUSLY NEED suggestions on what kind of LSD or locker to put in the FRONT .

Here is what I have:
-Used Aburn Limited slip?, maybe an Eaton torque control (picture 1)
-Used Goverment locer, (gov. Lock)......Anyone ever heard of these? (picture 2 & 3)
-2 New Ausi Lockers

Keep in mind I will mostly drive it in 2wd but it may see some use in 4wd in the winter and possible icy roads, dirt roads, very minimal off road. This thing is running a 4cyl engine and will never see tires larger than 33". I have 235/75/15 tires on it now (30") but potential for up to 33's depending on how high the lift turns out being, and what size tire the 4.10 gears can handle.

I also need to put two into my FJ-60 project slated for 35" tires, and may try to put one in the rear if I get a FJ-60 rear axle under it.

I did a little looking around for the gov lock and they are pretty common on GM trucks but not that good of a reputation but I think those people are doing a lot of wheeling where I am not. It sounds like it is a bit more of a LSD than a locker but it has smooth operation which I like incase I use 4wd in the winter.

How smooth are the Ausi lunch box type locers under dry road and winter road conditions?
SUGGESTIONS NEEDED!

get a True Trac for the front, it can be made to "lock" up with use of your brake pedal while spinning. it is easy on the front end- and for road use I would suggest a high pinion diff from a FJ80 Landcruiser to keep driveshaft angle at a minimum and reduce running in 4wd vibrations.

 

[jynx]

Can you use the 8" FJ80 HP diffs in the FJ60 axle? I thought the 60 axles had 9.5" diffs front and rear? If this is wrong please tell me cause I would love to do my SAS with a 60 front since they are the same width as the IFS rears.

 

[extremetoy1]

I tacked in the shackle tubes that go through the frame for the rear of the front springs. You can see the spacers I used to get the springs lined up. Works out really well giving enough clearance on both sides of the frame for the shackles to clear. I wish I had drilled the holes slightly more to the front (maybe .5") of the frame to give the shackles a shallower angle for a bit of a smoother ride but I think it will be OK.

I also mocked up the front shock location and worked on the shock travel a bit. Using stock FJ60 shock mount towers and shocks. I might be able to get more down travel flex out of the axle if I put a longer sway bar link on it or moved them down slightly but I will work those details out once I have it together and test drive it for a bit.

So far with the 5" TG shackles up front under full compression there is 1-1.5" clearance between top of diff and oil pan so clearance should be OK. But I do need to put in some bump stops eventually to make sure the pumpkin does not come up and hit the oil pan.

I made progress on the power steering location today. I used the Marlin Crawler P.S. steering box mounting plates and re-used the bottom right/rear hole in the frame. I then drilled out the front hole and put the sleeves in and welded the sleeves in place. Here is a picture of it tacked and bolted in place for moc up. Looks like it should work just fine. Lined up with the steering link rod perfect although the length is off and I have to fab it for FJ80 TRE joint. That will be tomorrows project.

Using a flat pitman arm and should have just enough clearance for the nut once the TRE is installed. If not I will either notch the frame or install a drop pitman arm.

I talked to the guys at GTF Toyota fab shop and they said the 2000 Tacoma booster and master cylinder will work well, which they have done before so that is what I will use.

I am looking for good shocks for the front and rear so I am open to suggestions.

Local shop has KYB gas-a-just LC shocks for front (1985 FJ60)and rear shock options (1985 4x4 pickup) are Monroe matic plus, Monroe gas charge HD, Monroe spectrum OE (supposed OEM replacement).

are your shackles on right? they look angled a bit and should have both spacers @ the bottom right?

 

[meigsrock]

get a True Trac for the front, it can be made to "lock" up with use of your brake pedal while spinning. it is easy on the front end- and for road use I would suggest a high pinion diff from a FJ80 Landcruiser to keep driveshaft angle at a minimum and reduce running in 4wd vibrations.

Thanks for the advice on the True Trac. I think I am going to use what I have, the Gov lock LSD or Aburn LSD up front when I re-build the front axle this winter.

FJ80 front will not Fit an FJ60 front! It is not lifted very high so I am not worried about drive line angles for the front.

 

[meigsrock]

are your shackles on right? they look angled a bit and should have both spacers @ the bottom right?

If I was using a pickup solid axle then this would be the case but I am NOT.

I am Using a Landcruiser FJ60 front axle with a 9.5" ring and pinion. This is a custom set up and the width of the springs is wider than the pickup springs. The spring perch width is also wider than the pickup axle due to the axle bing wider and the landcruiser frame being wider so this is how I set it up and it looks to be all lined up good.



I mad some more progress the last couple days:
Installed Tacoma booster and master cylinder.
Made custom tye rod steering rod and got them painted.
Welded in the shackle tubes.
Tacked in shock mounting brackets
Welded in sway bar mounting spacer to the frame.

 

[meigsrock]

Can you use the 8" FJ80 HP diffs in the FJ60 axle? I thought the 60 axles had 9.5" diffs front and rear? If this is wrong please tell me cause I would love to do my SAS with a 60 front since they are the same width as the IFS rears.

NO you can't. R&P are different. The FJ80 axle is also a little wider, I forget right off how much wider. It does have the advantage of e-lockers, high pinion diffs, and stronger birfield joints.

My FJ60 axle is working out really well so far. I have another FJ60 axle that I plan to put under my 1992 pickup in a year or two.

 

[Sam Stewart]

I was under the impression that the 60 fronts and mini fronts were basically the same. The 80s have a 9 in the rear but not in the front. The front is an 8 for sure. I'm running a high pinion 80 front with an Aussie locker in the front of my mini right now.

 

[meigsrock]

I was under the impression that the 60 fronts and mini fronts were basically the same. The 80s have a 9 in the rear but not in the front. The front is an 8 for sure. I'm running a high pinion 80 front with an Aussie locker in the front of my mini right now.

The FJ60 fronts width match the IFS pickup rears 1986-1995. The FJ60 front and rear are 9.5" R&P. Pickup rear is 8" R&P.

FJ80 fronts are nice and use the 8" R&P also but are hight pinion and reverse cut gears I think. They are a bit wider and would match up with a Tacoma rear better which is a combo lots of people do when they can get ahold of an FJ80 frotn.

I have been pretty busy at work and with home projects lately but I managed to welded in the FJ60 shock towers, install the FJ60 front shocks, and hook back up the sway bar.

Steering rods are all fibbed up ready to go in as soon as I weld in the steering box mounts for good.

 

[jynx]

Is the fj60 front a reverse or standard rotation? And are the rear axle splines similar to the mini's? Just wondering if a guy could cut up a mini rear and a 60 rear and center the 60 chunk in a mini axle and then use the 60 front to have 9.5 chunks front and rear that are the correct ifs width.

Sorry, hijack off.

 

[Gadjeep]

Thanks for the advice on the True Trac. I think I am going to use what I have, the Gov lock LSD or Aburn LSD up front when I re-build the front axle this winter.

FJ80 front will not Fit an FJ60 front! It is not lifted very high so I am not worried about drive line angles for the front.

Do yourself a favor and steer clear of Gov-locs (wasn't aware that they offered one for Toys). Mine grenaded inside my my corporate10 bolt and it was a friggin mess! I put a truetrac in it and it's awesome.

 

[meigsrock]

Is the fj60 front a reverse or standard rotation? And are the rear axle splines similar to the mini's? Just wondering if a guy could cut up a mini rear and a 60 rear and center the 60 chunk in a mini axle and then use the 60 front to have 9.5 chunks front and rear that are the correct ifs width.

Sorry, hijack off.

The FJ60 front and rear are standard cut and interchangeable. If your blow a rear you can remove the front and put it in the rear and carry on.

FJ60 front and rear axles are 30 splines and so are the mini pickup rears.

You can cut and hack the two axles together and it has been done before. There is a write up on it floating around somewhere and I think I have a link for it in one of my posts here on IHATEMUD. It might be in one talking about my pickup build because I have another FJ60 front to put under my 92 pickup some day.

You use the FJ60 center and the Mini outer ends of the axle. the mini axle OD is the same as the LC ID axle tubes so the mini can be pounded inside the LC axle tubes. You then use the mini axles and breaks, etc, and the LC diff.

The mini axle housing is 1/8" thick and the LC is 3/16 I think. The LC housing is thicker and stronger.

If you have it done I would have an axle shop build it so everything is true and welded in a Jig. If you don't have the 2 axles already it is probably cheaper and defiantly better to buy a diamond axle made to your specs

 

[meigsrock]

Made some good progress on it This Friday and am getting close to done. So excited to use it again. Man it has sucked not having this thing working for 2 summers.

Welded in steering box bracket
Installed ps box
Hooked up PS hoses and installed PS reservoir
Hooked up steering linkage, torqued and cotter pined
Installed and routed break lines
Torqued all shackles, suspension, U bolts, etc.
Greased TRE, Shackles, Drive line
Bleed Breaks


A drop pit man arm would have been perfect but the way I have it set up the bulge in the TRE at the pitman arm would hit the lower drag link when the suspension flexed so I had to stick with the flat pitman arm. It is not bad and the bars are still close enough together that it should not affect bump steer much if any. There is enough clearance between the two now with the flat pitman arm that the 2 bars will not touch under suspension compression.

It would have been best if I had done a better job on mock up then I could have moved the axle rear .5-.75" or the steering box forward all the way to the rad support to avoid clearance and used the drop pitman arm but such is life. it will still work.

I thought I was also going to notch the frame but I just cut the top of the TRE bolt off and ground down one edge of the bolt a bit, re drilled a new cotter pin hole and it clears now no problem.

 

[meigsrock]

Here is some pictures of the breaks.
I hooked it up land cruiser fashion with only one line to the axle instead of duel lines down to each break.

PS side I used the stock hose and location and ran it to the axle instead of the caliper.

I have to find a way to block off the splitter attached to the break booster for the extra down line. Right now I have a line lock in the closed position in that port to block it but I think a bolt will work, or I will remove the 3 way and install the line lock in its place in the open position.

The DS axle break line broke off in the top spot so I ran a longer hose to rig it for now until I rebuild the front Axel and fix it right.

The front extended SS break line pretty long but all the stockers I had left were a bit short. I think a stock rear break line from a pickup would work and I may replace it eventually. This one has ground snagging potential I think.

 

[meigsrock]

Here is the passenger side ridged up bypass but works for now.

Also a poser pic of it on the ground.



Hope I can get it test road worthy this week if the weather cooperates.

Here is my to do list:

check torque on trany bolts
check and fill all fluids
bleed clutch slave cyl
buy rear shocks, weld in lower shock tabs
patch exhaust pipe section I cut out
install ps belt
hook up air filter and hoses
install shift levers and finish up shifter boot mounting and install
fix / weld spair tire holder under truck
install class III hitch?
test drive and alignment

 

[jynx]

Man this thing is soo awesome. I am excited to see it together and moving under it's own power. If I ever stumble across one I will feel compelled to own it.

 

[kling-on]

thats looks great keep up the good work

 

[meigsrock]

Got a little work done today on the camper.

I welded in the exhaust piece I had to cut out when I removed the old cross member and fixed a exhaust leak near the muffler.

I Installed the power steering belt, removed the battery isolator that was in the way and installed the last power steering hose so that system is all done, except fluid. I can't find mine and I just bought some for the pickup. I then went to the parts store to buy antifreeze and forgot to get the power steering fluid and more break fluid.

I also misplaced my steering dampener that I was going to put on today. I found the brackets and tabs but can't find the stupid stabilizer. Went to buy another one at GTF but they did not have any so I need to order one if I can't find it after tearing the garage apart tomorrow.

What a run around day. It was suppose to be spent all working on the truck not running all over town forgetting things.

Ordering shocks and steering stabilizer this week, and making another trip to the auto store after work with a list this time.

Hope to be driving it soon.

I will put up some more photos of the work done on it once I make some more progress.