2wd to 4x4 SAS 1986 Toyota Chinook camper build

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The list does look long, but it is all doable. I am looking forward to seeing it all up and running, so anytime you get discouraged, just pop up in here and we will try to encourage you to keep plugging along. I'd offer to help, but the 2,000+ mile road trip is a little more than I can do over a weekend. ;)

Keep us posted.

Tucker
 
Well I am not sure if it is a Chinook as I have only seen one other camper like mine but in the 1970's similar versions they were called Chinook campers but it is close so that is what I will call it. As far as I know this one is pretty rare.

I have been driving it around with no third gear for about 2 years now and it is not ideal. I plan on towing some small trailers, boats, rafts with it this summer so I will need that third gear for big hills.

I picked up some parts this winter for the swap. I got a great deal on a used 5 speed with transfer case, complete rear axle from a 1989-1995 pickup with 4.10 gears, and I also have a landcruiser FJ-60 front axle and springs to put under the front.

I am not going to use the old axle as it is a 5 lug rims (I really hate 5 lug rims, it is a toyota thing as I am sure you all know), and probably has 3.73 gears because of the smaller tires on it. It is also narrower and I look forward to getting this setup a little wider, especially when it gains a little lift. I think it is also sprung under at the moment, but I will have to double check. I am not sure if I will go spring over or under with the back, just depends on how the front ends up, and how much lift I need to level it all out.

I am not looking for a lot of lift just enough to make it a little more truck like, probably 235/75/15 tires, because I have a lot of those.

As far as I can tell my front LC axle and new rear pickup axle will be about the same width. I was also going to use the stock FJ60 springs sprung under and try to reuse the steering links from it too.

I think my FJ-60 springs are wider than my rear pickup springs and am guessing that the front pickup springs are the same width. I would like to re use my springs to save on cost. If this is the case I may have to make my own front hanger, modify one from a manufactuer like allpro or buy a Man-a-Free landcruiser shackel reversial kit and fab something out of that.

I am also wondering about the spring perch width on a solid axle pickup (how far apart are the springs center to center) I need to compare this to my FJ-60 axle for comparison. I am not sure but my axle may be a bit wide and I may have to move the spring hangers in.

I also need to put power steering on it and wondered what may fit. I may have a FJ-60 PS box to use if it will fit. Any suggestions here?

So I was wondering if anyone else has put a landcruiser axle under the front for a SAS swap? What parts did you use and how did it turn out?

Any comments or info here on my proposed project?

I am trying to get as much info ahead of time and get my parts together so I have them all ready when I start. I wan't as little down time as possible.

I will post up some pictures of mine but here is the 4x4 version that I am shooting for.




that thing is bad ass
Thug Life!!!!:hillbilly:
 
OK, so now the x-mas madness is over I can think about strating on this thing again. I definatly need it running for the summer. I get a lot more fishing done when I have it running.

So I am going to pull the front axle out soon and start the rebuild. I SERIOUSLY NEED suggestions on what kind of LSD or locker to put in the FRONT :confused:.

Here is what I have:
-Used Aburn Limited slip?, maybe an Eaton torque control (picture 1)
-Used Goverment locer, (gov. Lock)......Anyone ever heard of these? (picture 2 & 3)
-2 New Ausi Lockers

Keep in mind I will mostly drive it in 2wd but it may see some use in 4wd in the winter and possible icy roads, dirt roads, very minimal off road. This thing is running a 4cyl engine and will never see tires larger than 33". I have 235/75/15 tires on it now (30") but potential for up to 33's depending on how high the lift turns out being, and what size tire the 4.10 gears can handle.

I also need to put two into my FJ-60 project slated for 35" tires, and may try to put one in the rear if I get a FJ-60 rear axle under it.

I did a little looking around for the gov lock and they are pretty common on GM trucks but not that good of a reputation but I think those people are doing a lot of wheeling where I am not. It sounds like it is a bit more of a LSD than a locker but it has smooth operation which I like incase I use 4wd in the winter.

How smooth are the Ausi lunch box type locers under dry road and winter road conditions?
SUGGESTIONS NEEDED!
LC auburn limited slip 3rd member.webp
LC gov lock 3rd member.webp
LC gov lock 3rd member 2.webp
 
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Me, :hhmm: personally what I'd go with is in the following order (although not necessarily what you have available):

~1. ARB, advantage, on board air for other stuff. :D

~2. Supra LSD

~3. Aussie

*I just don't trust the old "chuck the 1" spring through the ring gear" style Auburns or the "prone to tossing and bending pins" Government's, and honestly am not solid on Aussie's for anything like a camper or even my 4Runner when loaded up (blew two pins and springs). *Had about 600lbs of gear in there at the time and I was being a throttle jockey, so I accept part of the blame there, but still, WTF because I've seen and heard so many other similar issues.

The Supra LSD's are sweet, the ARB's just icing on the cake IMHO.

YMMV, hope that helps with your thought process.
 
Because I am trying to work with what I have and in a range I can afford the ARB is probably out. The Supra if memory serves is a Pickup axle size/application and not Landcruiser size. Maybe a good option for the rear if I keep it pickup 8" out back. The Supra LSD or Toyota TRD LSD is made by Eaton. http://www.drivetrain.com/parts_catalog/positraction/toyota_trd_limited_slip.html

If these are way better then I would consider selling one of my other units and buying one of these.

Also potentially interested in the Eaton Detroit Truetrac Differential for the toyota 8" rear. Not sure if they make a LC 9.5" application. As well as a Youkon Gear Grizzly locker.

Hopefully my auburn and government are in good shape and won't need too much service to get them going again, but won't know for sure until I get under way and get them cleaned up a bit.

Any idea where to look for more info on my government locker? I am having a hard time researching them in a landcruiser aplications.
The gov lock sounds like it will last longer than the Aburn from a mataniance standpoint because the clutch discs are not always engaging and disengaging like the Aburn, however being in the front it will not see constant use like one would in the rear end, so this may be a mute point anyway.
 
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Well I went out and bought some axle seels and other parts to start the front end but came across this custom build here on IH8MUD with 33" tires and it got me thinking.
107187310_medium_105a22.webp
107187306_medium_cd8b38.webp
 
Looks like I will wait to rebuild the front untill I get the bugs worked out and have enough to upgrade to some 4.88 gears. I think I will upgrade the rear axle to a tacoma 8.4" and springs at that point too. I should be able to do 33's with less lift than this truck to help keep it a little more stable.
 
I think I will upgrade the rear axle to a tacoma 8.4"
Tacoma axle??? All Tacomas had lower carrying capacities than the 1/2 ton trucks did from the same era the chassis cab trucks used for RVS did. The chassis cab trucks the RVs used all came with 1 ton axles. See a problem here? Get a full floating axle from one of the heavier Landcruisers, or get one of the 6 bolt 1 ton RV axles if you can find one. You want the 6 bolt 1 ton axle that has the protruding hub in the middle. Second to that would be the flush faced 6 bolt one. Run away from all 5 bolt 1 ton axles as they are not safe if overloaded even a small amount or run with duals on them. They tended to break the axle then there wasn't anything to keep the hub and wheel attached and it wandered away with devastating effects. There was a recall on them to replace them with the 6 bolt protruding hub version, but that work was to be done by the RV makers, not Toyota, and many went bust so not all were changed.
 
Tacoma axle??? All Tacomas had lower carrying capacities than the 1/2 ton trucks did from the same era the chassis cab trucks used for RVS did. The chassis cab trucks the RVs used all came with 1 ton axles. See a problem here? Get a full floating axle from one of the heavier Landcruisers, or get one of the 6 bolt 1 ton RV axles if you can find one. You want the 6 bolt 1 ton axle that has the protruding hub in the middle. Second to that would be the flush faced 6 bolt one. Run away from all 5 bolt 1 ton axles as they are not safe if overloaded even a small amount or run with duals on them. They tended to break the axle then there wasn't anything to keep the hub and wheel attached and it wandered away with devastating effects. There was a recall on them to replace them with the 6 bolt protruding hub version, but that work was to be done by the RV makers, not Toyota, and many went bust so not all were changed.

I will definatly keep an eye out for a 1 ton toyota rear axle if I can find one. The problem with the LC axles are offset pumpkin or I would use one of those.

I was thinking of tacoma because about 3" wider, and stronger R&P gears. I did not know that they had a lower pay load rating. I wonder if that has to do with the strength of bearings or because they only have 3 leaf springs in the rear pack. I may also have a lead on a cheap 2001 tacoma axle.

Possibly a US made axle like dayna 60 would be the way to go, but not sure about width. It would about kill me to do it but it may be the way to go.

So far I have taken out the pre 1985 5 lug early pu axle 55" WMS, and upgraded to a post 1985+ IFS with axle at 58" WMS.
 
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Tacoma axle??? All Tacoma's had lower carrying capacities than the 1/2 ton trucks did from the same era the chassis cab trucks used for RVS did. The chassis cab trucks the RVs used all came with 1 ton axles. See a problem here?

I am not sure I follow you here on this. What is a chassis cab truck? Do you mean extended cab trucks?

The info I found says that the 96-02 Tacoma 8.4" axle has a higher GAWR than the 90's hilux, but if someone has a Tacoma please let me know what the GAWR is for it. I found a axle for cheap I need to go get it to potentially put under the camper.

I started a thread about it here so feel free to take a look if you have any info on this to contribute on the payload or GAWR on any of these axles.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyo...ayload-gvwr-ratings-hilux-tacoma-t-100-a.html
 
Here is a more current picture.

I am thinking more and more about something in the 31-33 range for tires to make it a little more expedition like. I rolled my 33's up to it and I am pretty sure they would fit if I trimmed the rear fender openings some and put on fiberglass high clearance fenders on the front.

I have been thinking of these fenders for a while because they are wider too, and would cover the tire up a bit more. Otherwise I will go with a bushwhacker cut out fender flare up front, but I think the fiberglass fenders would be better = no rust, plus the whole back end is fiberglass too.

Something like these 2 photos.
002.webp
IM000478.webp
sweet toyota.webp
 
I am not sure I follow you here on this. What is a chassis cab truck? Do you mean extended cab trucks?
Chassis Cab refers to a truck shipped from the factory without a bed. That was what was done for all that were used for RV use. A simple Google on "Chassis Cab" would have told you this.
The info I found says that the 96-02 Tacoma 8.4" axle has a higher GAWR than the 90's hilux, but if someone has a Tacoma please let me know what the GAWR is for it. I found a axle for cheap I need to go get it to potentially put under the camper.

I started a thread about it here so feel free to take a look if you have any info on this to contribute on the payload or GAWR on any of these axles.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyo...ayload-gvwr-ratings-hilux-tacoma-t-100-a.html
You need to compare against the 1-ton trucks shipped while Toyota still allowed the mini truck to be used as a RV base. That was up to '93. The chassis cab units shipped for RV use all had 1-ton axles. I know I've seen the ratings for them, but haven't located the listing again. There was one axle I thought was a good candidate, but it would require widening the front too. One of the 2" to 3" longer A-arm kits was near perfect width for use with it. In the end I figured it was too much hassle and expense so I dropped going to a heavier duty axle and instead looked at lightening the weight of the MicroRV back. That allowed me to stay with stock parts. If you wish to SAS the front, but I think that requires a 3-4" lift, it would be possible to get the axles. I didn't want to raise my truck more than 1" to 1.5" and I wanted to retain nice highway handling so I never looked at anything in that direction.

Bugger, I'm still not finding my notes on what I was thinking of using. Can't even find the section so I may have deleted them. That's so unlike me. I usually just move them to the end of the document or an old notes document.

I noticed over at pirate they have collected a 1-ton axle thread, linked in their FAQ, and some are using Dana 60s and 70s. I think all production Dana 60s and 70s would widen the stance considerably. I know in the past Dana would make custom width axles, but some replacement parts would be custom built when needed. If you broke one of the shafts it likely would take a month or more to get a replacement.

Here is the Toyota RV 1 Ton FAQ: http://www.toyotamotorhomes.com/files/Axle_FAQ.pdf
 
Thanks for the info and link on the rv axles. I came across that once, may have it bookmarked somewhere. I partly dismissed it because my truck never came with duels or fake duels. It is also not much larger than the original Chinook campers from the late 1970's, and they all had regular non floating axles on them. It is in the 16-19' range (I will measure when I get home, and check about the recall on my truck just to see). Wish I knew what this thing weighs...........time to do some internet searching:)

I kept it in mind and I know that the full floater is the best way to go if I can but I do not wan one that needs duel rear tires. I would like to keep it all Toyota if I can.

I looked up some quick info on the dayna 60 axle and the non floater GAWR is 5000 and the full floater is 6000 lbs. but way too wide, 65-69".

I have been gathering GWVR and GWAR from different trucks for comparison to see what may work. If you have any info on 1-ton Toyota axles (GWAR) I would like to know.

These are right off my 1992 22re standard cab pickup.
1992 pickup GVWR = 5350 lbs.
1992 pickup GAWR front = 2600 lbs.
1992 pickup GAWR rear = 3000 lbs.

I found some good info here on the tacomas http://www.trdoffroad.com/articles/pdf/00_tacoma.pdf
40Habits from another post gave me his info for his 04 Tacoma.
GVWR = 5104
GAWR front = 2650 lbs.
GAWR rear = 2800 lbs.

These are off my 84 FJ60:
GVWR = 5360 lbs.
GAWR front = 3065 lbs.
GAWR rear = 3220 lbs.


Looked in a nice guys door today to get the GAWR rear info on a 2008? Tacoma 4 door short bed.
GAWR rear = 3110 lbs.

Could not get any info off my camper yet as far as these numbers go, but will keep looking.

I Looked on my wifes 98 Ford F150 just to compare.
GVWR = 6250 lbs.
GAWR front = 3500 lbs.
GAWR rear = 3600 lbs.

Let me know if you find that info you were loking for.

Thanks
 
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If you wish to SAS the front, but I think that requires a 3-4" lift, it would be possible to get the axles. I didn't want to raise my truck more than 1" to 1.5" and I wanted to retain nice highway handling so I never looked at anything in that direction.


I don't want to spring over in the front. I used the FJ60 front leafs and left them sprung under. They have more curve than the flat 84 front pickup sprigs. Spring under should be or seems to me it would be more stable with less axle wrap. I am not sure how much lift I have from it because it is not done yet but I gained a lot over where it was as a 2wd. Should be close to a stock 4x4, maybe 1-2" over stock 4x4 height. I would like to compare to one some day.

I think It should be at the right height but if I need a little more lift or capacity in the front I can add a leaf in the pack from another extra set of fj60 springs, or an add-a-leaf, or buy some lift springs for the front. But spring over with these springs would put me in the stratosphere.

The rear went spring over to get enough room for the larger tires and the axle I put under it is from a pickup was a spring over set up.

I thought about putting my 4" lift Trail Gear springs on it and going spring under for the rear, which I think would put it at about the same height as it is now, but I will have to look into that more later once I decide on a rear axle solution. (well that option is out unless I want to buy another set of springs because I put the 4" TG springs on the back of my pickup.:) ).
I now have the stock spring pack off of my 1992 that I can use by swaping some of the leafs from it to strengthen the spring pack in the camper.
 
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Here is some interesting info I have found on these little campers if anyone is interested. Helps me having it all in one place.

chinook [Tin Can Tourists Wiki]

Types of Toyota Motorhomes | eHow.com

check this guy out in his chinook with 33's. Chinook Toyota Motorhome Kootenay Edition Camping Footage March 2010 to July 2011 - YouTube

It is a Toyota Bandit rv/motor home/camper made by Bonanza Travelers,Inc. or Bonanza Coach Corp. not sure which is right at this point as I have not looked into those companies yet.

85 Toyota Bandit mini motorhome $6250

4x4 Bandit

I am stoked! I finally found what it is called. Now I can research it more. Sweet:bounce:.

Looks like it came with a 1-ton non floater axle. Wonder how that rates compared to the 92 hilux axle and 2000 Tacoma axle?
 
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Well I am starting to think about my camper again. Probably a couple weeks out still before it is warm enough and dry enough to start back on it. I am still working on my 92 pickup but it won't be too much longer.

I have a rear axle, drive lines, power booster, and master cylinder showing up tomorrow from a 2000 Tacoma. The rear axle has 4.56 gears in it which will come in handy if I run a 29-31" tire on it. Still not sure on the tires set up yet but it will all fall together. If I don't use the Tacoma axle on it then I will put the Tacoma axle in my 1992 pickup eventually.

I forgot to upgrade my break booster last fall so I hope the Tacoma one will work, if not then I will have to get one from a 90's truck. Does anyone know if the Tacoma one will work? If not I have one from a FJ60 to try also.

I installed power steering on my 1992 pickup so it will go fairly fast on my camper once I get to it. I bought belts for it, bolts, pulley, and I think I have all the hoses so I just have to get in there and install it.

Extended break lines showed up for both trucks the other day.

I took the rear springs and all shocks off of my 1992 pickup and installed 4" lift springs on the 1992. I will add some of these leafs to the rear of the camper to beef up the rear springs. I think I will try to use the shocks off of my 92 pickup on the camper for now so I don't have to buy more parts.
 
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Well it has been a busy spring and start of summer with work and trying to finish the pickup but I finally got off my dead :censor: and started work on the camper again.

I will get some pictures of progress up tonight.

I think I am going to need a larger break booster from a newer truck but am not sure. I don't want to get all done and then have to go back in and swap out the booster if I can do it now.

Can anyone tell me if I will need a bigger booster from a 90's truck? I have the landcruiser front axle and calipers which are similar to the 89-95 trucks. I have a break booster from a 84 landcruiser which is a double diaphragm booster, and one from a 2000 Tacoma. I also have master cylinder from an fj80 and the 2000 Tacoma. Any opinions on what combo to go with? Could use some suggestions. Thanks.

Working on steering and suspension today.
 
The Fj60 axle is basically the same as the mini trucks except for the bigger pumpkin. It uses the same brakes and what not. You should be fine with the landcruiser booster. but if you wanna play it safe. grab a 89-95 truck or 90-95 4runner booster. I think even the newer tacoma's use the same one. not sure on that though.
 
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