2nd UZJ100 Build up

[Campfire]

Actually, it's not going to so much a build up as a swapping of parts.
The "With or Without Rear Diff Lock" question has been answered for me and it's just as easy to buy another with the locker.
I found a replacement for my bent frame silver 98, and have started the process of getting it ready for exploring. I found a white 99 with rear locker, and rear A/C with some bumper damage. I explained to the guy that the bumpers were not even an issue as they were going to be replaced.

So here we go! I'll try to keep taking pictures of installing stuff and see if I can do some more tweaks as I'm going.

As they sit this morning. I think I'm going to need coffee.

 

[1loudLX]

I like the new truck more, good luck. Pop some green tea extract, that'll keep you up

 

[slimbuddha]

After you move over all the parts you want to keep, are you going to part out the rest of the old one or sell it for salvage?

 

[Campfire]

I'm selling it whole, I don't want to deal with shipping, parts, PayPal, etc...
I have a couple of interested parties, and one salvage yard here in NorCal that will write a check as soon as I deliver it. I can drive it over there.
It's going to take a couple of weeks to get everything done.

 

[TXLX470]

How much do you expect them to pay you....you might be able to get much more money if sell atleast the main items here on mud...more money means more mods for your new truck..))

 

[1loudLX]

camp works FD pretty seriously so I dont think he has the free time to hassle with the stuff. I know where hes coming from, one swift sell is easier to deal with then attempting to part out this and that and maybe make an extra buck in the end.

 

[pint]

Congrats! I can't wait to watch the build! Maybe some sliders should be high on the list???

 

[Campfire]

It's been a long day, and the bumpers are on. I'm going to try for some more swapping tomorrow, but I forgot how much I've done to my 98.
Still have to swap the brake controller, wire in the 12volt to the back, diff, transfer vent tubes, and the rear springs with the air bags. It will take some time.

I cleaned up everything while I had it apart. Here's the rear before install.



And installing the front, and then done. I'll take some better ones tomorrow and post the lift If I get that done.

 

[Campfire]

I also had to remove and install the trailer wiring, what a pain. But it will be all worth it when I'm done.



Sorry for the blur, but this is the elusive 2nd generation trailer towing package tail light convertor that is installed on the recall.

 

[100 TD]

How much do you expect to get for it whole?
Why don't you give someone the option of swapping their standard diff for yours for $500 maybe, (it's not a big job to drop the housing complete ) they get your locker, diff switch and ECU, you get $500 cash or lots of beer, the salvage gets the same rig minus the locker, they may give you $300 less not sure but someone may be to a great advantage as I still say they wil plug and play.
EDIT: Depending on the salvage yard, they may onsell it, or pull the chassis themselves and fix panels and sell it whole.

 

[hks3sgte]

Nice find. And nice color. Good luck!

 

[pint]

Coming along nicely. I really like the white.

 

[slimbuddha]

I think the real question here that everyone wants to ask is... "are you moving over the butterfly cupholder"

 

[1loudLX]

oh good call, keep the spare!

 

[Campfire]

I think the real question here that everyone wants to ask is... "are you moving over the butterfly cupholder"

Ah yes, the cupholder. Funny you should ask, it truly amazes me what can get past cup holders. I did some cleaning of the new rig and found that they had kids and coffee drinking mom who liked to take notes and always needed something to write with. I found where she lost everything.................And it was broke anyway.



After finding how stuff I had, I had to clean out my own stuff.

Congrats! I can't wait to watch the build! Maybe some sliders should be high on the list???

And yes, the sliders are now at the top of the priority list. Here's how it looks on the first trip to work. The guys saw the bumpers and said "see you found a new one"..

 

[anthonycds]

How cool is that... You got 2 100s, and 1 is for spare parts.

 

[1loudLX]

wow, you move quick! I'm assuming the power antenna is broken?

 

[Campfire]

And now for some more updates with technical stuff, and I'm going to throw in some key words for those search mongers. This rig did not have a working rear locker but I figured I had parts to fix it.

Symptom; Rear locker will not engage and indicator light gives quick blips not standard flashes.

Findings; After checking the locker thinking it was stuck, motor burned out, wiring broke, etc. I used the factory manual & wiring diagrams to trace out the circuit. (NOTE: Factory Manuals are worth the money if you're thinking about them) Stock wiring requires the transfer case be in Low range for the locker to work and it must see this signal to complete the circuit and send 12V to the motor. I had now low indicator signal to the control unit. I pulled the Low Range indicator switch out of the top of the transfer case and ohm checked it. Bad.

Repair; replaced low range indicator switch in transfer case.


Symptom; Center Diff Lock indicator lamp does not come on but lock does work and vehicle binds up on turns when engaged.

Finding; This one was weird, it worked but no lamp at any time. The schematic showed that this circuit all power is sent and grounds supplied BEFORE the lamp. I even pulled out the cluster from the dash and replaced the bulb. (Found the front lock indicator too! Later on that) Once again the priceless manual showed that the last componet in the circuit is the Lock Position Indicator switch in the front/top of the transfer case. I pulled it out (not easy, short 1-1/16 wrench) and checked it. Bad switch again and this should be rare, but people let things go when they know there are going to get rid of things.
Everything in this circuit works and the last signal comes from power at the motor on the transfer case, to the switch, and then up to the dash. The switch ONLY TURNS ON THE LIGHT.

Repair; Replaced diff lock indicator switch and light now works. Also couldn't pass up the chance to do the 7-pin mod while checking signals at the control unit.

Sorry if it's too techy, but some of you like this stuff.

 

[spressomon]

And now for some more updates with technical stuff, and I'm going to throw in some key words for those search mongers. This rig did not have a working rear locker but I figured I had parts to fix it.

Symptom; Rear locker will not engage and indicator light gives quick blips not standard flashes.

Findings; After checking the locker thinking it was stuck, motor burned out, wiring broke, etc. I used the factory manual & wiring diagrams to trace out the circuit. (NOTE: Factory Manuals are worth the money if you're thinking about them) Stock wiring requires the transfer case be in Low range for the locker to work and it must see this signal to complete the circuit and send 12V to the motor. I had now low indicator signal to the control unit. I pulled the Low Range indicator switch out of the top of the transfer case and ohm checked it. Bad.

Repair; replaced low range indicator switch in transfer case.


Symptom; Center Diff Lock indicator lamp does not come on but lock does work and vehicle binds up on turns when engaged.

Finding; This one was weird, it worked but no lamp at any time. The schematic showed that this circuit all power is sent and grounds supplied BEFORE the lamp. I even pulled out the cluster from the dash and replaced the bulb. (Found the front lock indicator too! Later on that) Once again the priceless manual showed that the last componet in the circuit is the Lock Position Indicator switch in the front/top of the transfer case. I pulled it out (not easy, short 1-1/16 wrench) and checked it. Bad switch again and this should be rare, but people let things go when they know there are going to get rid of things.
Everything in this circuit works and the last signal comes from power at the motor on the transfer case, to the switch, and then up to the dash. The switch ONLY TURNS ON THE LIGHT.

Repair; Replaced diff lock indicator switch and light now works. Also couldn't pass up the chance to do the 7-pin mod while checking signals at the control unit.

Sorry if it's too techy, but some of you like this stuff.

Nice post Jeff: Thanks! Don't take this the wrong way but I hope I never have to use the info you posted

 

[locrwln1]

Wow Jeff.

Congrats on the new rig. I see you got the best color.

Looking forward to seeing it on a future run.

Jack